Another shock question

[redneckpunk]

I am planning on replacing all of my control arms with the Moog ones (bushings are all cracked and old). I figured while I'm in there, I should replace my shocks as well. I'm pretty sure they are original and with over 140,000 miles, they are pretty soft. I am trying to decide between the Rancho RS5000x and Skyjackers Black Max. I've read a lot about both being pretty good. I have a 2006 LJ and currently have a hard top, but hopefully will be replacing it soon with a frameless soft top. It sounds like the RS5000x might be a little stiff in the rear, etc. Would that still be an issue with the hard top? I would preferably like them to be the same instead of the RS5000x in the front and the Black Max in the back. This is mainly on road because my work schedule and location doesn't allow for much (if any) off roading. I would like a comfortable ride with good control. Any suggestions?

Plus, any locals looking to purchase an LJ hard top?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I'd match the front and rear shocks. My previous set of RS5000x shocks were not stiff in the rear.

 

[AjRagno]

I had Black Max on my LJ for awhile and currently run Rancho RS9000XLs. The Black Max were extremely soft and allowed for a lot of body roll. If your LJ is stock height, the best riding and longest lasting shocks will be the Bilstein 4600. I ran these Bilsteins for about 100,000 miles before adding a lift and trying a few different shocks until settling on the RS9000XLs.

In regards to Moog control arms: You'll want to consider CK vs K vs RK series. When I looked at Moog control arms a few years ago, all I could find was the RK series, which is the lower end value line. What you want is the CK or K series. I could not find the Moog CK/K but I believe that Detroit Axle uses their Moog CK/K bushings in their control arms.

 

[redneckpunk]

I'll check out both options. I have Detroit Axle from hub and bearing assemblies and they seem pretty good so far. Mostly seeing the Moog RK parts, and only some CK parts, but I'll check around more. Are bar pin eliminators recommended? I can see some advantages, but was curious. Thanks for the responses.

 

[Tob]

location doesn't allow for much (if any) off roading.

What?! I am happy to inform you that there are two offroad parks within a 20 mile radius of you, sir. Not to mention that Disney, SMORR, Camp Gruber, and Byrd's are not too far from you either. Consider yourself lucky you don't live on a coastal plainland

 

[redneckpunk]

What?! I am happy to inform you that there are two offroad parks within a 20 mile radius of you, sir. Not to mention that Disney, SMORR, Camp Gruber, and Byrd's are not too far from you either. Consider yourself lucky you don't live on a coastal plainland

It's more of my work schedule. I couldn't tell you the last time I had a day off during the weekend.

 

[redneckpunk]

I originally checked out the Core 4x4 Tier 1 control arms, but didn't want poly bushings. From what I read, the rubber ones are no longer an option.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I originally checked out the Core 4x4 Tier 1 control arms, but didn't want poly bushings. From what I read, the rubber ones are no longer an option.

You don't want rubber or poly bushings at both ends of your control arms. Really. At least one end should be a flex joint. When both ends only have bushings they can't flex well enough on trails that really flex out the suspension which can cause the control arms to tear their mount(s) out of where they are welded to the axle or frame. Happened to me when I was running Teraflex's 1st generation control arms that had bushings at both ends. So I'd save just a little longer and/or upgrade Core's control arms to the next level up, Tier 2, which have a flex joint at one end. At least if you plan to take your TJ offroad.

 

[redneckpunk]

You don't want rubber or poly bushings at both ends of your control arms. Really. At least one end should be a flex joint. When both ends only have bushings they can't flex well enough on trails that really flex out the suspension which can cause the control arms to tear their mount(s) out of where they are welded to the axle or frame. Happened to me when I was running Teraflex's 1st generation control arms that had bushings at both ends. So I'd save just a little longer and/or upgrade Core's control arms to the next level up, Tier 2, which have a flex joint at one end. At least if you plan to take your TJ offroad.

That's why I was thinking of an OEM style control arm. My understanding is that they allow enough flex for mild offroading. I can afford the more expensive control arms, but I have other priorities and I'm trying to balance my budget accordingly.

Since finding the Moog CK control arms is proving difficult, how do the RK's compare to the OEM ones? It looks like the Detroit axle ones are pretty good, but there are a couple of bad reviews. I thought about the Doorman options as well. Which ones would be a good option for a non lifted LJ? I don't mind paying a little more for quality, but I can't justify a grand or more for control arms when I could really use some shocks as well.

 

[jjvw]

That's why I was thinking of an OEM style control arm. My understanding is that they allow enough flex for mild offroading. I can afford the more expensive control arms, but I have other priorities and I'm trying to balance my budget accordingly.

Since finding the Moog CK control arms is proving difficult, how do the RK's compare to the OEM ones? It looks like the Detroit axle ones are pretty good, but there are a couple of bad reviews. I thought about the Doorman options as well. Which ones would be a good option for a non lifted LJ? I don't mind paying a little more for quality, but I can't justify a grand or more for control arms when I could really use some shocks as well.

If the Jeep is at stock ride height, factory arms are quite sufficient.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Factory style control arms are actually a good choice for smaller lift heights like 3" or less. While they may appear to be cheap and shoddily constructed their design is actually quite good and is actually more flexible offroad than some aftermarket control arms. They hold up well too.

 

[redneckpunk]

That is my understanding. If it was easier, I would just replace the bushings, but considering the price to convenience factor, I figured it would be better to just replace them. The only part that sounds 'difficult' is the front axle bushings. I plan on using a set of Moog K3128 bushings.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That is my understanding. If it was easier, I would just replace the bushings, but considering the price to convenience factor, I figured it would be better to just replace them. The only part that sounds 'difficult' is the front axle bushings. I plan on using a set of Moog K3128 bushings.

The bushings are really tough to replace, I wouldn't try it. I watched a 4WP shop guy replacing the control arm bushings on someone else's TJ once and he was having a hell of a time, he was even having to use a torch.

 

[redneckpunk]

Not really digging the Dorman ones since they seem to have been 'boxed' near the bottom of the lowers. Wouldn't that limit the slight flex you might get from an OEM design?