OP
Staying with 4.88s. Ill find out what lift Im running after consulting the two companys. Thanks
Another TJ on 37s thread
- Thread starter custommuffler
- Start date
OP
Aired up to 28 psi and total diameter is 36"`s dead on the money. 4.88 is the best oeverall choice for this build.
That's the custom calculation you get from Custom Muffler & Auto Repair in Kenner LA... (nobody tell him that his calculation is going to be messed up once he mounts them. This is too fun to watch.)
Hey now! My YouTube hero has those and gets paid to say they're the best!!
Well at least you can tell the next owner it's properly geared for 33s
OP
OP
Metalcloak 4.5" it is. The rims and tires were actually picked by friend of mine who runs a tire store. I wanted light weight and light cost. They have a TJ there now getting 40`s (MT Bajas) on imitation beadlocks. Has a donor RT motor in it.
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OP
And just what does that matter? Seriously, whats up?At least the tires are 13.5" wide! Oh wait, they're on 20" wheels...
The 13.5" would be good if you're wheeling a lot and have the clearance all around for that wide of a tire. Plus your turning radius is going to suck being that wide. If you're not wheeling it much, you're better off with the 12.5" wide tires.
The 20" wheels: Fine because as previously stated, you're not wheeling much. Considered a mall crawler wheel, would get ruined with offroad use.
It just seems like a mismatch to have the 13.5" wide with 20" wheels. I get it though, it's all for looks, not for function.
Don't forget, they're 20x12 wheels. Most of us run 8" wide wheels...
13.5 might actually be more appropriate for those wheels than 12.5.
Good point. I guess take everything I know about Jeeps and throw it out the window for this build.
Good point. I guess take everything I know about Jeeps and throw it out the window for this build.
This Jeep is right up my alley. I'm an expert on how to bolt stuff onto my Jeep without any critical thought.
Yeah, well, you throwing what you know about Jeeps out the window is like tossing a deck chair off the Titanic to stop it from sinking.Good point. I guess take everything I know about Jeeps and throw it out the window for this build.
I just picture this Jeep getting stuck trying to use a fast food drive thru because it can't make it around the turn.
Building a mall crawler is very different than building a rig for off-road. It so happens that TJ, YJ, and CJ owners tend to be more in the off-road or classic Jeep enthusiast category, and are less likely to build a mall crawler.
Certain off-road builders are attracted to the TJ in particular because it is the last of the Jeeps with a design based in the CJ and even military jeeps, but it is also the first to feature a modern suspension and some elements of modern design. They often avoid the JK and later Jeeps because they are more complex, and are designed to be more car-like to appeal to a wider range of potential customers.
So forums like this one will naturally be biased towards the off-road enthusiasts, because this particular model is very attractive.
Unlike the TJs, the JK (and now JL) jeeps have been very attractive to people who would otherwise buy other sporty cars. In particular, the Unlimited (JKU or JLU) models are very popular among the mall-crawler enthusiast as well as among some off-road enthusiasts.
So you will see a lot more rigs like the one you are building based on a JK or JL platform.
For example, browse through the photos on this thread:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-unfortunate-jku-jlu-of-the-day-thread.14182/
They're not what most of us here would build, but there are indeed like-minded people who build and enjoy that kind of car. And the design rules can be very different. Large rims, for example, would rarely be seen on a rock crawler. But the "donk" look is quite popular among that crowd, as it really doesn't negatively impact road performance.
However, if you still want a street-capable vehicle, certain rules still do apply to both the mall and the rock crawler. Brakes, suspension geometry, alignment geometry, maximum tire size, gearing, maximum track width, etc. all apply to both sets of builds to varying degrees.
Personally, I don't think the 37s, budget lift, or the 20" rims are going to be that much of a problem on road only. But the track width, the brakes, and the gearing could all potentially negatively impact the driveability.
Certain off-road builders are attracted to the TJ in particular because it is the last of the Jeeps with a design based in the CJ and even military jeeps, but it is also the first to feature a modern suspension and some elements of modern design. They often avoid the JK and later Jeeps because they are more complex, and are designed to be more car-like to appeal to a wider range of potential customers.
So forums like this one will naturally be biased towards the off-road enthusiasts, because this particular model is very attractive.
Unlike the TJs, the JK (and now JL) jeeps have been very attractive to people who would otherwise buy other sporty cars. In particular, the Unlimited (JKU or JLU) models are very popular among the mall-crawler enthusiast as well as among some off-road enthusiasts.
So you will see a lot more rigs like the one you are building based on a JK or JL platform.
For example, browse through the photos on this thread:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-unfortunate-jku-jlu-of-the-day-thread.14182/
They're not what most of us here would build, but there are indeed like-minded people who build and enjoy that kind of car. And the design rules can be very different. Large rims, for example, would rarely be seen on a rock crawler. But the "donk" look is quite popular among that crowd, as it really doesn't negatively impact road performance.
However, if you still want a street-capable vehicle, certain rules still do apply to both the mall and the rock crawler. Brakes, suspension geometry, alignment geometry, maximum tire size, gearing, maximum track width, etc. all apply to both sets of builds to varying degrees.
Personally, I don't think the 37s, budget lift, or the 20" rims are going to be that much of a problem on road only. But the track width, the brakes, and the gearing could all potentially negatively impact the driveability.
OP
Point taken, Thanks for the toned down version of this site. I knew years ago not to open my mouth so to speak here. Lurked for years. Only finally opened mouth just to get a couple of answers about joints in both kits. Both kits are a few coins so I just wanted to get a couple answers. Got them and then some. Tough crowd here as well as any forum you join now. Ive been at the giving end many of times. Thanks for the tips guys. Really impressive stuff here, just not my bag. Just to throw it out there, wonder how many of you would throw 38k at a jetski to top triple digit mark on a gps? Yeah, might not be your cup of tea. But I wouldnt tell you that your purpose for just cruising on your jetski is ignorant. Just be a wasted fiberglass tree to me. Along with bass boats lol. My son will love this and of course as time goes, Im sure axle upgrades will come. Who knows, this Jeep may in fact become a rock crawler like what is popular here. But that would be my sons decision in the future. Dad just wants his taxi light turned off permanently and hopefully I get some return out of this investment in the form of "young dudes spend money on cars".
OP
Nah, thats my F350 CC, DRW, LB 4wd.
I don't really care that this isn't an off road build. I still care about function. Decisions like 4.88s create poor function. Also Patagonias are an awful tire.