Anyone added a coolant filter?

And you were running 29-30” tires??? No lockers? No retardation involved?
factory the first round, then only thing available was a ratchet unit as every single 35 in the country was exploding (as per a good friend of mine and service manager told me), so that was my only option. Then 30 inch tires i went through 2 more sets of axles. so first one was carrier grenading, second two times were axles snapping. One left, one right on two different occasions.
 
They didn't install one because what they installed works just as well for 1/5 the cost.

When my buddy worked at the Jeep dealer during the years the TJ was still in production and under warranty, I told him that his life must be just a barrel of laughs having to work on all those broken Dana 35 rear axles.

What are you talking about he asks? We never get them in under warranty, they just don't have any problems.

I got to pondering that some and realized he was in fact correct, they don't have issues when used as designed. After some more pondering, I got to figuring just how many Jeeps have a D-35 under them with no issues and decided that my dream as a designer would be to design a product, any product with the production numbers of the D-35 and the exact same or slightly worse attrition rate. It is a very successful product.
Obviously wasnt a large dealership. Bergeron down here went through a hell of alot of them.
 
Don't you know, his "personal first hand experience" (as opposed to what, personal second hand??) dictates such? Apparently my tenure as a R&D chemist in the semiconductor world working on metal etchants is no match to that of a muffler shop owner...
And you would be correct.
 
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An $800 radiator…classic. Can’t think of anything I’d rather spend my money on!….except 3-4 Mopar radiators, or practically anything else. I have never seen a stock engine overheat on the stock radiator in good condition and that’s usually solid for 100K, 10 years, in many cases much more than those numbers.

Let’s evaluate the purpose for the $800 cost.

Is it for extra cooling? Nope. It’s already proven that the stock radiator cools more than enough to where a thermostat is needed, so clearly the $800 radiator isn’t improving on that front.

So is it for longevity? Doubt it. Never seen anything all metal in the aftermarket last even close to as long as stock, much less 3-4x stock to justify the cost. So that’s not the reason to buy either.

So is it the shiny aspect that makes the cost worth it? $800 is a lot for shiny. Certainly not to me, actually I feel they look tacky AF, sticking out like a sore thumb under the hood with everything else looking normal. It looks noticeably “modded” for no real reason.

In short, I’ll keep my Mopar and save my $570. But I also don’t have the coolant smarts of muffler man so maybe he knows something I don’t.
Id look at design dumbass. Long term build, charger going on. So your saying the stock plastic tank rad will last as long as a GRIIFIN? Then why did you have to replace yours? The FAN boys are here! LMAO
 
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And you would be correct.
Dunning-Kruger.jpg


For your sake, I hope you at least brought a good pair of hiking boots up that mountain...
 
Id look at design dumbass. Long term build, charger going on. So your saying the stock plastic tank rad will last as long as a GRIIFIN? Then why did you have to replace yours? The FAN boys are here! LMAO
I have several rigs I take care of. I know of more than a few that are on their 2nd and 3rd Griffin radiators that failed in far less time than even the used OEM versions I have swapped in.
 
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For your sake, I hope you at least brought a good pair of hiking boots up that mountain...
For what? I love the radiator I have in my Jeep. Not my first time using one. Do you even know what the benefit is to using one of their single "big tube" radiators or even how a radiator works? Hurry now fan boy, go do some google research so you can reply. Lmao, phucin dork
 
I have several rigs I take care of. I know of more than a few that are on their 2nd and 3rd Griffin radiators that failed in far less time than even the used OEM versions I have swapped in.
Im sorry homie, but I gotta call bullshit on this. Gotta lot of repect for you but I call bs. Were these griffins replaced due to slamming into a big phucin tree?
 
For what? I love the radiator I have in my Jeep. Not my first time using one. Do you even know what the benefit is to using one of their single "big tube" radiators or even how a radiator works? Hurry now fan boy, go do some google research so you can reply. Lmao, phucin dork
I know very well how radiators work without using google and you'll know that by how fast I can reply.
 
Im sorry homie, but I gotta call bullshit on this. Gotta lot of repect for you but I call bs. Were these griffins replaced due to slamming into a big phucin tree?
Nope, just start leaking from random places in normal not offroaded use. Calling BS won't change what I see.

@LJ
 
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I know very well how radiators work without using google and you'll know that by how fast I can reply.
I never quoted you on it. And this is where every new person here has a problem. The fan base and fan boy mentality. But if its me against the entire forum, Im cool. I know what I know and thats all I need to know. Its all good homie.
 
I never quoted you on it. And this is where every new person here has a problem. The fan base and fan boy mentality. But if its me against the entire forum, Im cool. I know what I know and thats all I need to know. Its all good homie.
Fan boi crap has nothing to do with what we see fail.
 
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Nope, just start leaking from random places in normal not offroaded use. Calling BS won't change what I see.
Ive personally never ever seen any issue with one. And Ive known a hell of alot of people that run them to include myself. And Ive always run a big tube. Single row.
 
Fan boi crap has nothing to do with what we see fail.
Sooooooo, are you sitting there trying to side up with the other clown trying to tell me a plastic tank radiator is better and will outlive an aluminum from Griffin? Seriously? Lets not even take into account thermal properties of material.
 
Sooooooo, are you sitting there trying to side up with the other clown trying to tell me a plastic tank radiator is better and will outlive an aluminum from Griffin? Seriously? Lets not even take into account thermal properties of material.
Not A plastic tank radiator but I typically see the OEM plastic tank radiators go 100,000+ miles. I have never seen a Griffin or any other high zoot aftermarket full aluminum tank radiator do that in a TJ.

Let's do take into account the thermal properties of material and while we are at it, let's also take stiffness and rigidity into account. Please tell us where you are headed with that?
 
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Not A plastic tank radiator but I typically see the OEM plastic tank radiators go 100,000+ miles. I have never seen a Griffin or any other high zoot aftermarket full aluminum tank radiator do that in a TJ.

Let's do take into account the thermal properties of material and while we are at it, let's also take stiffness and rigidity into account. Please tell us where you are headed with that?
Heat disappation, I would think that thermal expansion would have to be very close on the plastic used for tanks on oem or they would leak within a week of use.
 
Heat disappation, I would think that thermal expansion would have to be very close on the plastic used for tanks on oem or they would leak within a week of use.
Heat dissipation through the tanks is so minimal as to not matter. The thermal efficiency of a radiation has nothing to do with the tank material. The amount of BTU load it can shed is based on tube density, tube design, fin density and air flow. If the tanks mattered at all they would be of a heat sink design and they aren't.