Anyone added a coolant filter?

Heat dissipation through the tanks is so minimal as to not matter. The thermal efficiency of a radiation has nothing to do with the tank material. The amount of BTU load it can shed is based on tube density, tube design, fin density and air flow. If the tanks mattered at all they would be of a heat sink design and they aren't.
My reference was in material used in making of radiator. A welded tank is stronger than an epoxied plastic tank by far. tube design with "contact patch" is how heat is removed from the system. Period
 
Sooooooo, are you sitting there trying to side up with the other clown trying to tell me a plastic tank radiator is better and will outlive an aluminum from Griffin? Seriously?
My OEM radiator split on the top tank. Due to time constraints I purchased an expensive Griffin radiator (double the cost of a MOPAR replacement). The Griffin began leaking in less than two years. I have since purchased a MOPAR replacement.
 
For sure - while his "shelf test" shows miscibility and stability at normal ambient temperatures, it is hardly representative of what the inside of the engine is seeing. Heat is a mother fucker and definitely would impact chemistry over time. Couple this with the speciation of the various dissolved salts and acids, I think it would safe to say that the "shelf test" is hardly considered conclusive.

I mean a good anecdotal example is that people have indeed mixed the two without issues (at least not a gelling issue). However, there are many that have had issues. This shows that something is at play other than just solvent base.

There was an issue with some recent RAMs after Chrysler changed what they were using in newer vehicles (2013+, I think?). I had a friend whose truck was one of the affected ones. New truck, serviced at the dealer, within warranty period and they noticed that the coolant overflow tank was looking to have some gelling. Around the same time, friend started noticing that the heat was reduced at the passenger side inside the cabin. No chemicals were mixed, it was still running whatever came from the factory since it was less than two years. They had to replace the radiator and heater core under warranty and do a full flush of the system. There was even a TSB apparently.

Friend finds out from the shop tech that knew someone at Chrysler that the gelling was caused by the manufacturer not cleaning the chemicals used in the manufacturing process from the coolant system parts. It was reacting with the coolant, causing gelling within the coolant system.

While OAT/HOAT seem miscible, who knows what degradation could have happened over time due to heat inside the cooling system parts. It may not be the mixing itself that causes gelling, but it's definitely a reaction that's causing it.
 
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My reference was in material used in making of radiator. A welded tank is stronger than an epoxied plastic tank by far. tube design with "contact patch" is how heat is removed from the system. Period
It is only stronger by virtue of using much thicker material. If they tried to use the old technology thin brass and copper tanks, they would be weaker and less rigid than the polymer tanks by a long shot. The welded tanks aren't where they fail though. The interface at the tank header where the tubes attach is always an issue and then the tubes themselves fail.
mark dumais radiator.jpg
 
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tube design with "contact patch" is how heat is removed from the system. Period
Not even close. The reason a large single row tube works more efficiently in the same core depth is the interstices between the rows of tubes reduce the amount of contact with the fins. Assuming that the same fin density is employed, a single row full depth in the core will always work better than a 2 row. There is far more to it than exposed surface to the air flow.
 
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My reference was in material used in making of radiator. A welded tank is stronger than an epoxied plastic tank by far. tube design with "contact patch" is how heat is removed from the system. Period
To expand on this some. Aluminum is a shit material for use in a radiator, copper has a far better heat transmission rate. The problem is copper and brass radiators have an Achilles Heel in that the only way historically to attach the fins to the tubes was with lead solder which has one of the lower thermal transmission rates. That really impacted how well they perform. Aluminum works acceptably only by virtue of the fins being brazed to the tubes. There is some new technology out there they are working on to braze the copper fins to the copper tubes which will put copper back on top if they can solve the weight and expense issues.

I wouldn't be surprised at all to see a polymer tank copper radiator in something before long. FYI- using the word plastic to describe the tank on a radiator is the more generic use of the term. Realistically they are a highly engineered fiber reinforced high performance polymer.
 
Not even close. The reason a large single row tube works more efficiently in the same core depth is the interstices between the rows of tubes reduce the amount of contact with the fins. Assuming that the same fin density is employed, a single row full depth in the core will always work better than a 2 row. There is far more to it than exposed surface to the air flow.
Exactly what I said "contact patch". The area that the fin contacts the larger tube is greater than a double row smaller tube. More fin is attached to a larger single tube thereby greater heat sink.
 
Exactly what I said "contact patch". The area that the fin contacts the larger tube is greater than a double row smaller tube. More fin is attached to a larger single tube thereby greater heat sink.
As long as you qualify that with the same core depth, then that is accurate as long as the fin count per inch is the same.
 
To expand on this some. Aluminum is a shit material for use in a radiator, copper has a far better heat transmission rate. The problem is copper and brass radiators have an Achilles Heel in that the only way historically to attach the fins to the tubes was with lead solder which has one of the lower thermal transmission rates. That really impacted how well they perform. Aluminum works acceptably only by virtue of the fins being brazed to the tubes. There is some new technology out there they are working on to braze the copper fins to the copper tubes which will put copper back on top if they can solve the weight and expense issues.

I wouldn't be surprised at all to see a polymer tank copper radiator in something before long. FYI- using the word plastic to describe the tank on a radiator is the more generic use of the term. Realistically they are a highly engineered fiber reinforced high performance polymer.
And you boys think aluminum is expensive? We arent re-inventing the wheel. Ill give you guys props for arguing. I think you boys would argue about right if your right just to argue lol. So lets rehash some facts: yall dont like coolant filters, lastic tank radiators are in fact much batter than any other radiator unless its a brass/copper one from a 30's era tractor. And the Dana 35 is a well manufactured unit. Perfect for totally stock TJs. From everything in this thread Ive read Im extremely surprised any of you would even consider a lift kit on one. Well, as long as its a Curry. Are LED lights ok to run? Synthetic oil? I mean with detergents and gasket material used in the making we may all get leaks from every possible seal/gasket from this tractor motor. Is there a specific air I should be running in my tires? Im below sea level here in New orleans. Did Chrysler engineers lie to me like they did with transmission oil? I mean they are smart and Im not worthy of knowledge. If you guys could just clarify a few things. Like why the color red isnt actually red due to the fact that we see only reflected light. So ponder if your white,,,,that you aint actually white.
 
As long as you qualify that with the same core depth, then that is accurate as long as the fin count per inch is the same.
If one pine cone has less points or seeds than another is it still considered a pine cone? Corn having a different count of kernels? At some point there is information that is categorized as a "given".
 
If one pine cone has less points or seeds than another is it still considered a pine cone? Corn having a different count of kernels? At some point there is information that is categorized as a "given".
There are no givens when it comes to radiator design. The variables that affect thermal efficiency are far too many for anything to be a given. That's also the reason why we struggle to make OEM style replacements work. There was a lot of documented info on another board about several of them. Not a single one had the same number of tubes across the core and the fin count per inch was always lower. Which is as bad as being too high.
 
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And you boys think aluminum is expensive?
Has little to do with expense. If the OEM can spec out a more efficient radiator and put it in a smaller space, that is valuable real estate that can be used for something else.
We arent re-inventing the wheel. Ill give you guys props for arguing. I think you boys would argue about right if your right just to argue lol.
You only think it is arguing because we don't agree with your position that Griffin rules all and our experiences differ. I have a well stated position that if I could make anything last as long as OEM with the same efficiency at a minimum premium over OEM cost, I'd use it tomorrow. I swap lots of radiators and work on lots of cooling systems in the TJ and I need that solution.
So lets rehash some facts: yall dont like coolant filters,
I don't like or dislike them, I don't really care. What does matter is if they work and no one has made a good case that they do in a viable system yet.
lastic tank radiators are in fact much batter than any other radiator unless its a brass/copper one from a 30's era tractor.
I don't think that is true at all. Understanding why something is used and how long it lasts is not the same as believing they are better. What they are is very good and to date work better than anything else we've tried dollar for dollar. I can get a better radiator, I'm not going to spend the grand that it takes to do so. In fact, I can get that less than 15 miles away.
And the Dana 35 is a well manufactured unit. Perfect for totally stock TJs.
That one is an absolute. You only wish you could design something that successful.
From everything in this thread Ive read Im extremely surprised any of you would even consider a lift kit on one.
Now you're just being a dick.
Well, as long as its a Curry.
If you are going to be a dick, at least spell Currie correctly.
Are LED lights ok to run? Synthetic oil? I mean with detergents and gasket material used in the making we may all get leaks from every possible seal/gasket from this tractor motor.
I don't know that any of that matters.
Is there a specific air I should be running in my tires? Im below sea level here in New orleans. Did Chrysler engineers lie to me like they did with transmission oil? I mean they are smart and Im not worthy of knowledge. If you guys could just clarify a few things. Like why the color red isnt actually red due to the fact that we see only reflected light. So ponder if your white,,,,that you aint actually white.
I thought you only drank at night?
 
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There was an issue with some recent RAMs after Chrysler changed what they were using in newer vehicles (2013+, I think?). I had a friend whose truck was one of the affected ones. New truck, serviced at the dealer, within warranty period and they noticed that the coolant overflow tank was looking to have some gelling. Around the same time, friend started noticing that the heat was reduced at the passenger side inside the cabin. No chemicals were mixed, it was still running whatever came from the factory since it was less than two years. They had to replace the radiator and heater core under warranty and do a full flush of the system. There was even a TSB apparently.

Friend find out from the shop tech that knew someone at Chrysler that the gelling was caused by the manufacturer not cleaning the chemicals used in the manufacturing process from the coolant system parts. It was reacting with the coolant, causing gelling within the coolant system.

While OAT/HOAT seem miscible, who knows what degradation could have happened over time due to heat inside the cooking system parts. It may not be the mixing itself that causes gelling, but it's definitely a reaction that's causing it.
For sure - there are a lot of variables... speciation of the organics (and potentially silicates) and metallics, particularly with new blocks, heads, components, etc of varying alloys is a lot more complicated than many assume!
 
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For what? I love the radiator I have in my Jeep. Not my first time using one. Do you even know what the benefit is to using one of their single "big tube" radiators or even how a radiator works? Hurry now fan boy, go do some google research so you can reply. Lmao, phucin dork
If Google were effective at disseminating correct information, there is no possible way you could be this wrong for so long...
 
I have several rigs I take care of. I know of more than a few that are on their 2nd and 3rd Griffin radiators that failed in far less time than even the used OEM versions I have swapped in.
My experience is very similar. Got talked in to a Griffin, started leaking. Repaired by a local shop, started leaking again in a different area, got a warranty replacement which I sold nib and went back to Mopar. Mopar has yet to leak 12 years later.

My brother also had a Griffin in his TJ go bad, replaced under warranty.
 
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My experience is very similar. Got talked in to a Griffin, started leaking. Repaired by a local shop, started leaking again in a different area, got a warranty replacement which I sold nib and went back to Mopar. Mopar has yet to leak 12 years later.

My brother also had a Griffin in his TJ go bad, replaced under warranty.
Did they try to tell you that the reason they failed is the grill shell flexes too much?