Someone has to pay for the kids college fund after all!
Anyone added a coolant filter?
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Someone has to pay for the kids college fund after all!
I had bought it through Quadratec and they dealt with Griffin on the replacement. I would have preferred a straight return. I've heard the grill shell flex comment before, must be those people haven't tried twisting one. They're pretty stiff considering what they weigh.
The standard response to that bullshit is look how the factory mounting flanges are attached to the radiator. There are slots molded into the ends of the tanks. They slide a machine screw into the slot which stops it from turning and run a Keps nut on that to attach the flange. If there were any merit to the grill shell flexing, it would rip those small screws right out of the plastic. They don't.
You homie, did they buy the specific rad built for the TJ? There are two. One is much cheaper and Id assume thats an outsourced (from china) unit. Your not GOD homes, You wont be with me, I promise that.
Wrong ther contact "patch" of the fin to tube is the heat transfer point. Period. REDUCE that patch you reduce thermo transfer. I may be loaded reading this or your off out there bro
Stop already. You can't fix your lack of understanding or Griffin's shit radiators that have already been posted up. If that was your position, you should have stated from the start that Griffin is a shit company that builds two radiators trying to catch the ignorant thinking they are getting a good NAME unit. Besides, none of the folks I deal with are price shoppers.
For 2 1/2 times the price of a Mopar unit, you get 1/10 the service life with no improvement in performance.
You aren't making yourself look good. Read what you replied to again, slowly this time. In the same core depth and we'll use a 1" version as an example or one that is maxed out with a 1" wide tube. The tube to fin contact at each tube is just a smidge less than one inch due to how the tube is shaped.
If the below were the same core depth, it would have less tube to fin contact due to the spaces between the tubes. That's is why in general in the same core depth, a row of wider tubes is more efficient than a multi row.
I've never thought of it this way but it makes perfect sense the way you explained it here. Thanks for that Blaine.
That's one aspect that affects efficiency. The obvious leap is to use the fact that wider tubes are better so why not two rows of them in the same core assuming it will fit, or even 3? The thicker the core depth, the harder it is to move air through it. There is a balance between depth and fin count. Higher efficiency depends on getting air through with the highest fin count. Get the fin count too high and you slow down how much air can get through the core.
Thick wall tubes are more robust and last longer. In aluminum or copper for that matter, that slows down heat transfer from the coolant moving through them. Thinner tube walls are more efficient but don't last as long.
There are so many things that affect how well a radiator works I'm surprised that we even get anything that works.
This needs addressing further. There is a very key point here you overlooked either intentionally or due to your lack of attention to details that you normally exhibit. I don't have a dog in this fight. I don't care what radiator anyone uses. I need a good radiator solution because we all know that the OEM version isn't going to be around forever and when that day comes, I NEED something I can get in a hurry, is remotely affordable and will not be a warranty problem.
Right now, there are only two radiators I will install. One is Northern and the other is OEM. I can be convinced to install others but only under the following conditions. If it has to come out for warranty, you handle the entire warranty process. You will compensate me for my time, materials and also be willing to listen to me bitch and gripe the whole time I'm doing it because I'm doing something I despise.
On the other hand, if I install an OEM and it has a problem, that is 100% on me, I'll take care of every single aspect and I'll even put up with you bitching at me because it fucked up.
The reason for that is very simple due to OUR experiences. Griffin has a 100% failure rate. Wizard cooling has a 100% failure rate and a 100% denial of warranty. Mishimoto has a 100% failure rate. Champion has a 100% failure rate. CSF has a 100% failure rate.
OEM has a 100% success rate. There is one other ebay radiator I put in front of an LS swap that is still working so it is also 100% success. I replaced the Wizard with the Northern and it is still going strong. The reason I don't do more Northern versions is they kinda have their head up their ass on fitment and what it takes to install one. No one should have to pull the grill to install a radiator.
I need a radiator solution, I need one I can count on, and I need it to be reasonably affordable both on the part cost and on the install side. With the cost of OEM getting up around 300+ I really need an alternate since that is way too much for OEM but until something with a much lower failure rate comes along and I can still get OEM, it will be OEM as the first choice.
I know parts store junk is usually that, junk, and I’m not suggesting you switch over but have you used a radiator from say Napa? I installed a Napa radiator in 2015 and after 7 years 45K miles, no problems. Made by Spectra Premium.
I know that mileage doesn’t prove a lot but after the Jeep experience when the factory radiator went in my truck, I replaced it with a Spectra from RockAuto due to the OEM being $500 (and since it worked on in the Jeep). Ran that one for about 53K and 2 years before I sold the truck. Of course I haven’t put either of these through some crazy test of time or uber high mileage but it seems like all the brands you listed fail long before the intervals I’ve reached with Spectra, and neither of mine gave any signs of failing soon either.
Not saying the build quality is as good as Mopar either because I’m sure it’s not, but they always ran at operating temp in hot AF Texas, never leaked, and never had a problem. Might be worth a test in one of your personal rigs or something to at least enlist them as an option should the Mopar be discontinued in the near future.
The reviews for my truck radiator were not great but I also take reviews with a grain of salt. There is no telling if the person writing the review and/or installing the radiator was enough of a moron to the point where their review is not fair and should probably just be ignored.
I have no issue with anything that works. I just need something I can count on and the main reason I don't buy crap from NAPA is they sell Cardone boosters and other bits. That immediately throws up giant red flags that tell me they don't give a shit about quality.
If I want a Spectra Premium to try, I'll get it on Rock Auto. At least they list stuff by brand.
That’s fair. I have had no issues with Napa echlin sensors or the one radiator. Not a fan of their Cardone stuff although I did use a booster from them for a while with no problems, but we know how Cardone is, you could get a good “reman” part that is just used good condition and repainted, or you could get something rebuilt by their monkeys that doesn’t work at all.
I would have bought from RockAuto as well but 1) didn’t know the Napa was Spectra and 2) I was in a really tight pinch at the time as my OE radiator gave up at a very inopportune time, so I needed something fast and I trusted them more than the other 3 stores.
You might give one of them a shot sometime just to see if it could potentially be a viable alternative.
You have pretty much explained why there are so many shitty aftermarket options that don't work well. Can't just focus on one aspect (fin count or brass vs Aluminum etc) but need to look at the totality of everything together. There definitely is a lot of physics involved here and without proper understanding of the trade-offs it's hard to design a good functional radiator.
I used to manufacture and sell aftermarket transmission and coolant filters for this sort of purpose. I sold a huge pile of transmission filters, and not so many coolant filters. I used the Allison filters for the inline transmission setups. They are the same part number used by GM and have the removeable magnet. I can tell you from experience that they did in fact work. I got emails and first hand accounts of all the crud and metal that were left in the filters and on the magnets. Keep in mind that most factory internal transmission filters are more of a mesh material than an actual filter, think 80-100 microns vs the 15 of the Allison. The coolant filters were a takeaway from the 7.3 crowd. I sold a few, but they never were as popular. I used a Wix 24071 spin-on filter that fits many Cummins and Cat applications. They filter to around 30 microns and have DCA4 added in the filter. I know that DCA4 is used to manage corrosion and cavitation in diesels, however I'm not sure what it does in gasoline engines if anything. I don't know if they work well or not, but I never received any negative feedback about them.
WOW brah, Im back for a sec, dude, you ahvent explained , i havent read, its toooo much right now, dude, thermo transfr, metallurgy 1 oh 1. Get a grip, Really. My ol man was. Chill owned a shop. bought 5 actually. Wanna talk metal we can. Dont walk the walk. Your brake deal is cool, chill brah. Wanna get it with metal and how it acts and reacts? Bro, you aint here belive me. Any mutha phuca you got on this board dont. Hit me as hard as you can an shoot molecules and heat/cold. Chill nigga, you aint it. Belive me.
I lose brain cells every time I read one of your posts, bro dude brah
So cat,,, really. Did you design or in fact,,, design a damn thing , or just sell them. Im cool homie bythaway