OP
Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
i cut the bracket loose and bopped it with a mallot and it jumped right up there, (never even pulled the springs). then got it to lay level and welded that sucker back in. i did trim some off the back end of the passenger side to get it that close to the TB mount.
a table is a dam luxury.............i have several welds i'd be reluctant to show off due to being crammed up in some ungodly position to reach into an area i can't see in. and a missed line is not anywhere in the ballpark of some of the gobs we see.
OP
Savvifying my UCF skids. I have picked rocks out of the Allen head buttons and reached up between the skid and trans pan to thread nuts on for the last time.
OP
It was fresh in my mind after installing all the armor. Today I had to take the engine skid off and it dawned on me! I’m glad I ordered 25 extra Phillips bolts!
If I can't get up in there to weld it, what the fuck makes you think I can get a grinder in there?
That isn't how Savvy does it. Anything other than the frame screws that holds a skid or similar on that can get the heads smeared on rocks gets through bolted. The reason for that is even if the head is smeared, you can still get a wrench on the nut and get stuff loose that way. I spent way too many hours welding nuts to the heads of bolts that were threaded into something for it to be any other way.
OP
That makes sense... I didn’t think about that. @Alex01 read this before you do anything.
That makes sense. you're right that the nut is a redundant measure to insure you can get it off.
I will say though I do feel like I get added value from the welder everytime I weld a nut to a bolt/screw
OP
I suppose I will be getting some welder use if I smoosh the phillips too badlyThat makes sense. you're right that the nut is a redundant measure to insure you can get it off.
I will say though I do feel like I get added value from the welder everytime I weld a nut to a bolt/screw
OP
Today is going to be a big day. I’m doing: Geo Correction, relocating upper spring perches, and new rear lower shock brackets in that order.
Right now I have the longest rear TJ ranchos (~10” travel) and they still aren’t near long enough for how much my pinion is rotated back. Even with the relocation brackets I am at 6” uptravel and 4” down. On top of that I squished my driver side bracket pretty bad. My plan is to use Barnes stock replacement brackets and split my travel 50/50 on the 10” shocks. This will move my lower brackets up out of the rocks as well. I will also be able to ditch my relocation brackets which is nice. I would also like to try and move the brackets outwards inside the lower control arm mounts but we will see if the shock can clears the frame at full stuff.
Lots to do!
Right now I have the longest rear TJ ranchos (~10” travel) and they still aren’t near long enough for how much my pinion is rotated back. Even with the relocation brackets I am at 6” uptravel and 4” down. On top of that I squished my driver side bracket pretty bad. My plan is to use Barnes stock replacement brackets and split my travel 50/50 on the 10” shocks. This will move my lower brackets up out of the rocks as well. I will also be able to ditch my relocation brackets which is nice. I would also like to try and move the brackets outwards inside the lower control arm mounts but we will see if the shock can clears the frame at full stuff.
Lots to do!
OP
Found the source of that front end shimmy I was having. Since moving this wheel to the spare my wheel is silky smooth.
OP
Change of plans I’m going to relocate the lower perch like Dave does. It’s easier to get to while the upper towers are off anyways
OP
This project has been taking a lot longer than I planned. I’ll go into more depth later but first bracket is burned in!
Did you get a measurement of the height vs OEM? I’m curious since pictures are too hard to gauge
OP
I did not and I butchered my stocker. The hole on the new bracket sits 6 3/8” from the axle tube though
