Assistance with bump steer

The only reason it is disputed is due to the 1000's of rims in use that don't have a problem and are not running adapters.

I acknowledge your point.

Unlucky for me, my wheels would not center using the tire monkey method of fully tightening the first lug with an impact wrench. Once I learned to properly center my wheels as they were installed, I quit having wobble problems. I resisted the using hub centric adapters for a couple of years because the hub covers of my wheels would not work with them. This year, I installed hub centric adapters and made some custom wheel centers. I like how they turned out. :)

IMG_E8740-X3.jpg
 
I acknowledge your point.
Then stop saying that it is hotly disputed and explain that you are one of the few in a very miniscule minority that was only able to solve the problem in a very specific manner. Otherwise we have to keep doing this which makes it look like a hotly disputed topic when it is in fact only a correction to a fallacious position.
 
Your two lines while fairly accurate, should take into account the pivot points at each end of the draglink. More like this. Doesn't change much except the location of the pivots.
View attachment 364902

Another good point. Only thing is you should have drawn the line on his front end photo. Mine is working OK.

front%20geo-X3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Then stop saying that it is hotly disputed and explain that you are one of the few in a very miniscule minority that was only able to solve the problem in a very specific manner. Otherwise we have to keep doing this which makes it look like a hotly disputed topic when it is in fact only a correction to a fallacious position.

What is this?
 
is the JKS track bar known to cause bump steer?

The JKS bar uses the factory mounting points. Any track bar that does that along keeping the drag link on the factory mounting points will not create bump steer.
 
What is this?

Correct the hotly disputed part to be accurate. It isn't hotly disputed, we one or two folks that have solved the problem and 10,000 who don't have the problem even though they are running lug centric rims. The only dispute that comes into play is when the one or two start telling everyone with DW to get hub centric rings while fully ignoring the fact that some of us have fixed 100's of cases of DW and never once used them.
 
Early onset death wobble? Im too young for that :)

Been busy this week and haven’t had much time to dig around under the Jeep.

Im probably going to replace the shocks with some Rancho’s or SJ Blackmax too see if that helps. If the Falcons weren’t on the Jeep when I bought it they wouldn’t have been the shocks I would buy.

I still need to re-adjust the toe in. Hoping I can get to that this weekend.

@mrblaine mentioned the pivot points for the draglink. Is there something specific I should be looking for at those pivot points that can be adjusted or or is this an area that needs parts or fabrication to correct?

If only my wife would let me quit my job to free up more time to concentrate on the Jeep and an 88 F250 project that has stalled out since buying the Jeep.

Thanks again all. I really do appreciate the responses, your knowledge and your time.
 
...

@mrblaine mentioned the pivot points for the draglink. Is there something specific I should be looking for at those pivot points that can be adjusted or or is this an area that needs parts or fabrication to correct?

...

You want the factory mounting points on both the track bar and the drag link. Meaning, no drop brackets and no dropped pitman arm. That is all you care about, unless you are dealing with some custom non-stock steering and suspension configuration.
 
Correct the hotly disputed part to be accurate. It isn't hotly disputed, we one or two folks that have solved the problem and 10,000 who don't have the problem even though they are running lug centric rims. The only dispute that comes into play is when the one or two start telling everyone with DW to get hub centric rings while fully ignoring the fact that some of us have fixed 100's of cases of DW and never once used them.

OK. I changed the post that said "hotly." I changed it to "constantly." Checking that the wheels are mounted correctly is something most Jeepers can do in their driveway. If nothing else, the Jeeper gets a little exercise. :)
 
Got the toe in set to 1/16th. Might track a little better but still drives the same. Next I guess will be shocks. Replacing the Falcons with either Ranchos or Blackmax.

That will probably be a little while since hunting season is about to start and I’ll be devoting some upcoming weekends taking my rifle for a hike.
 
Thought I’d provide a lil update.

While still trying to tame this beast and rooting around the whole suspension I noticed my rear anti sway bar axle bushings were sloppy so I replaced them. I feel like it helped a little bit with the rolling feeling.

I also replaced the Falcon Nexus steering stabilizer with a Blackmax. That feels to have tightened up the steering a wee bit. Although it could just be a placebo effect. Like when new windshield wipers make my Tundra go faster…

Next up will be replacing the Falcon shocks with Blackmax and replacing the front anti sway bar bushings. If the BlackMax shocks do nothing I will remove them and put them up for sale.

One question. Should the drag link/tie rod joint move back and forth? It has some roll to it when I rotate it to the front and the rear. I assume this is normal with no other play or slop.
 
The drag link and tie rod are both mounted on ball joints so it's normal and actually required that they be able to roll back & forth about their long axis. That is required so they don't break as the front suspension moves up & down.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Yellowdog
It's the front track bar 100%.

Just figured this out on my TJ after diagnosing the same issue: alignment was fine, wheels in-balance, etc...

When you lift the Jeep and run an adjustable trackbar you're creating a longer lever and a different "swing angle" that the axle is traveling along. This creates a side-to-side movement in the axle. When you correct the geometry via a drop bracket it makes the axle travel on a more vertical path. It looks like you're on a 4in lift which means that front axle is really swiinging... Let me illustrate:

1666191966650.png
 
It's the front track bar 100%.

Just figured this out on my TJ after diagnosing the same issue: alignment was fine, wheels in-balance, etc...

When you lift the Jeep and run an adjustable trackbar you're creating a longer lever and a different "swing angle" that the axle is traveling along. This creates a side-to-side movement in the axle. When you correct the geometry via a drop bracket it makes the axle travel on a more vertical path. It looks like you're on a 4in lift which means that front axle is really swiinging... Let me illustrate:

View attachment 368219

If the draglink and trackbar a parallel and in the same plane, how do it know?
 
If the draglink and trackbar a parallel and in the same plane, how do it know?

Not entirely sure on that, the side-to-side movement I illustrated would probably affect the steering as well assuming a static steering wheel/pitman position.
 
Thought I’d provide a lil update.

Just curious if this is your first jeep?
The solid front axle and steering gear setup will react a little differently than most other vehicles on uneven surfaces.
Not to mention the addition of non-factory modifications.
 
Just curious if this is your first jeep?
The solid front axle and steering gear setup will react a little differently than most other vehicles on uneven surfaces.
Not to mention the addition of non-factory modifications.

First TJ. Ive owned a 79 CJ5 on 36” Buckshots and an 88 XJ that had a 3” RC lift and 31’s. I know, different beast.

Ive also got a neighbor that has a 2005 TJ Rubicon and a neighbor that has a 76 CJ5. None of those rigs bob and weave like mine does.

I have been slowly trying to convince myself that this may be par for the course for my LJ.