Planning ahead for when my clutch needs replacing. What is the best mfg for clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing etc?
02 5Spd, 32” tires and 3:73 gears if that matters.
02 5Spd, 32” tires and 3:73 gears if that matters.
Best replacement clutch assembly?
- Thread starter LHC30
- Start date
X2 on the above recommendation for Luk which is also the OE manufacturer for the TJ's clutches.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The above kit includes the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot shaft.
Some aren't fans of the throwout bearing now included with that kit so if you want you can go with the below. Personally I see no problem with the newer composite material design of Luk's throwout bearing which some way smarter than me have said improved its life.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZIQ4Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The above kit includes the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot shaft.
Some aren't fans of the throwout bearing now included with that kit so if you want you can go with the below. Personally I see no problem with the newer composite material design of Luk's throwout bearing which some way smarter than me have said improved its life.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZIQ4Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Dustin Hotaling
New Member
Great info sir. Upgrading lift and rear main seal is leaking. So I am going to upgrade clutch while tranny dropped.
You are aware the trans does not get removed to replace the 4.0 RMS.
Dustin Hotaling
New Member
Right but I have a bad rear main seal leak...so while it's dropped I'm just planning on upgrading the clutch anyway...was just doing it all at once...
Dustin Hotaling
New Member
Meant to state no drope needed for rms...i understood that thank you...but im giving myself a reason to upgrade and the wife none the wiser lol
Just didn't want you to have a surprise after the trans was dropped.
Dustin Hotaling
New Member
Dustin Hotaling
New Member
so that LUK clutch kit is pretty solid from what I can tell....but have you or anyone heard of negative reviews?
I would not use the Luk throw out bearing, get a National Bearing instead. Also, dirt cheap insurance, you can replace the flywheel as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0XO64/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZIQ4Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0XO64/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZIQ4Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Dustin Hotaling
New Member
For people using this thread as a reference for clutch replacement, I found I needed to also replace the broken clutch fork return spring. If you want to have all the parts on hand before you start the job, add this to your list for cheap insurance.
Mopar 4338855 Clutch Release Fork Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NMFHEW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Mopar 4338855 Clutch Release Fork Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NMFHEW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Slight necro-post but in 2019 I went through this thread to replace my 99 tj's clutch: I bought a new Novak AX-15, bought the clutch that was the recommended LUK from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20) and the upgraded National Throw-out bearing, and even replaced the flywheel (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0XO64/?tag=wranglerorg-20) and while it worked well I had grinding from 1st into second and other notchy shifting issues. I sold the Jeep in the fall, but was soured on the AX-15 and the LUK clutch after that bad experience. I did not replace the clutch master/slave but didn't see any reason to either as it was clean/not weeping oil.
Fast forward to now: I have a 2000 TJ and the NV3550 which shifted super smoothly is not gearless, as in will not go into any gear at all. I had been missing 3rd or 5th or 4th once in a while but it wasn't a big deal, just pick another gear...lol. But now I need to replace or rebuild it. So my question is what to do...go with an AX-15? I called a gentleman at Rockland Standard Gear who was super helpful but did say that my AX15 issues were due to the LUK pressure plate and how the fingers aren't tempered properly and cause issues with engagement/disengagement.
So I'm not sold on either trans - I hear people talk about how amazing the AX15 is and want to believe them but my sample of one wasn't good. I do need a trans though and just picked up an AX15 from a local boneyard for $150 and will rebuild it and hope I guess...I'll let you all know how it goes.
Fast forward to now: I have a 2000 TJ and the NV3550 which shifted super smoothly is not gearless, as in will not go into any gear at all. I had been missing 3rd or 5th or 4th once in a while but it wasn't a big deal, just pick another gear...lol. But now I need to replace or rebuild it. So my question is what to do...go with an AX-15? I called a gentleman at Rockland Standard Gear who was super helpful but did say that my AX15 issues were due to the LUK pressure plate and how the fingers aren't tempered properly and cause issues with engagement/disengagement.
So I'm not sold on either trans - I hear people talk about how amazing the AX15 is and want to believe them but my sample of one wasn't good. I do need a trans though and just picked up an AX15 from a local boneyard for $150 and will rebuild it and hope I guess...I'll let you all know how it goes.
Forgot to add that I used conentional motor oil for lubrication and will this time as well (got that from this site, 10w-40 I think it was) and the jeep was lifted 2.5" with no SYE with 3.73's on 33's.
This time around it's on a 4" lift with 1" mml and 1" body lift, Tom Woods Driveshaft and JB SS SYE and 6-pinion planet, 4:88's and ARB Locker in Dana 44 rear/ HP Dana 30 in front on 35's. This build ran and drove wonderfully until the NV3550 gave out! If I can't get the AX15 to work this time around, I'll pull it all out and put an LS/4L60E in it!
This time around it's on a 4" lift with 1" mml and 1" body lift, Tom Woods Driveshaft and JB SS SYE and 6-pinion planet, 4:88's and ARB Locker in Dana 44 rear/ HP Dana 30 in front on 35's. This build ran and drove wonderfully until the NV3550 gave out! If I can't get the AX15 to work this time around, I'll pull it all out and put an LS/4L60E in it!
Conventional Dino oil 10w-30 high mileage.
Also, I haven’t seen problems with the Luk clutch. Mine is fine. I did not go with the National TB. I went with the poly one Luk sends out. It’s been fine too. I’m in about 8,000 miles.
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I have the NV3550. I'd have a hard time swapping in an AX15 due to the higher 1st gear ratio.
AX15: 3.83:1
NV3550: 4.01:1
It would bring my crawl ratio down from 98 to around 93:1. I'm sure it would be hardly noticeable but mentally it would be hard to deal with.
AX15: 3.83:1
NV3550: 4.01:1
It would bring my crawl ratio down from 98 to around 93:1. I'm sure it would be hardly noticeable but mentally it would be hard to deal with.
High crawl ratios are important on tougher trails, that's why I really like an automatic. Its torque converter makes the crawl ratio infinitely high and its 1st gear ratio infinitely low.
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