Torque steer is a completely different thing from bump steer. Bump steer is when the steering goes left-right when the front axle moves up-down when driving over bumps and dips in the road. Torque steer is when the steering goes left-right from the gas pedal. So it was torque steer all along and not bump steer?
Yeah I would say for the most part. I'm not sure what the trackbar hein joint play was causing. My friend say it would be nice if I could squeeze a little more castor up front. Funny thing is it kinda felt like I was fighting 2 steering wheels I guess it was because the rear axle was driving it self lol sorta? On a uneven road I was being sling shot all over the road. Scary driving for sure.
The caster can't change so long as the other side's cam bolt is still tight. Caster can be adjusted with the tires on the ground but I wouldn't do that kind of work on a slope.I'm starting to think I have a caster issue. The oversteer is more pronounced turning right. The return steering is more pronounced turning right. The front lower control arms are fixed aftermarket with what looks like cam bolts (pic to come). I'm going to find a alignment shop to check and print out the specs. I'm suspecting one of the cam bolts came loose. Questions ; does the axle/differential need suspended to adjust caster? Does jeep need to be on level surface to measure caster angle?
The caster can't change so long as the other side's cam bolt is still tight. Caster can be adjusted with the tires on the ground but I wouldn't do that kind of work on a slope.
Correct. The axle is solid and the caster determining points on both sides are directly welded to it. The L/R caster angles are locked together. Raise one and the other follows suit. They are a few tenths of a degree off from each other which is intentional. Changing the pinion angle changes both caster angles by the same amount.This is my effort to learn here maybe.
Are you saying that the lower driver's side and cam bolt are set to the correct Caster, that if the passenger lower loosens and turns etc, it won't change the Caster on the passenger side?
Correct. The axle is solid and the caster determining points on both sides are directly welded to it. The L/R caster angles are locked together. Raise one and the other follows suit. They are a few tenths of a degree off from each other which is intentional. Changing the pinion angle changes both caster angles by the same amount.
Did you do the dry steering test? Check balljoints also? My loose balljoints gave me what was close to bump steer.
Correct. The axle is solid and the caster determining points on both sides are directly welded to it. The L/R caster angles are locked together. Raise one and the other follows suit. They are a few tenths of a degree off from each other which is intentional. Changing the pinion angle changes both caster angles by the same amount.
The caster can't change so long as the other side's cam bolt is still tight. Caster can be adjusted with the tires on the ground but I wouldn't do that kind of work on a slope.
I'm starting to think I have a caster issue. The oversteer is more pronounced turning right. The return steering is more pronounced turning right. The front lower control arms are fixed aftermarket with what looks like cam bolts (pic to come). I'm going to find a alignment shop to check and print out the specs. I'm suspecting one of the cam bolts came loose. Questions ; does the axle/differential need suspended to adjust caster? Does jeep need to be on level surface to measure caster angle?
I’m dealing with caster issue myself right now. A lack of caster for me is a looseness at center, and not a strong straight line centering essentially wants to break over left of right with little input. If I began an actual turn it’s not noticeable. Is your condition similar where it’s only “twitchy” around the center line and not if you actually steer into a right turn?
I'm wondering what your toe-in angle is.