Body lift and anything else?
- Thread starter Corbinlane
- Start date
Where at on the mounts should I measure?
This Jeep has 315’s right now for tires.
The front fenders allow plenty of clearance but the back is where is rubs.
There are no bump stops on the front or back.
Some of the body bushings are really worn out, and probably need to be replaced.
There is no body lift installed right now.
I posted pictures showing the coil springs but not sure if there is a lift. I know it a tall Jeep to get in but that might just be the 315’s (35”) tires?
There are no bump stops on the front or back.
Some of the body bushings are really worn out, and probably need to be replaced.
There is no body lift installed right now.
I posted pictures showing the coil springs but not sure if there is a lift. I know it a tall Jeep to get in but that might just be the 315’s (35”) tires?
Looks like 1 or 2” of lift .....way too low. 315 is only part of the measurement. Are they 315 75s? We need the whole readout. 315 is the width.
11" spring with about a 2" spacer. That's a 1" increase in ride height.
Well the back tires are the only ones which bottom out but the guy I bought it from put the fender flares on just before I bought it and I can see where they are rubbing back there. The front only rubs at full turn.
What would be the best way to fix this without reducing tire size? I’ll change the fenders regardless but would a longer coil spring work? Or do I need to do more than just that?
Here’s a good explanation. Factory travel is 4” up and 4” down just considering up and down motion and not flexing. With your fender flares you’re looking at a gain of about 1” up travel, add that to 1” spring lift. So now you’re at 2” of total up travel gain. With 35s vs 31s on a stock Jeep you reduce your uptravel by 4”. 2” gain minus 4” loss equals 2” of uptravel as it sits now. You effectively cut your ride quality in half. All this goes out the window when we talk about off road. You have even less flex travel.
You will gain 3” more uptravel if you highline the front and the rear. Real highline where you cut the bottom off the hood. Check out genright. Plus that 1.25” Body lift will net you another 1.25” of clearance.
What do you mean by high line? Adding fender flares which give more clearance like the ones on the front right now?
What would y’all recommend to get the height I need?
Change the coil springs out to get an increased lift.
BL with MML?
Any other suggestions?
Change the coil springs out to get an increased lift.
BL with MML?
Any other suggestions?
4"+ to run 35's. the problem becomes the complimenting parts to do it right adds significant cost. in addition to new springs and shocks you'd want an SYE and DC shaft, adjustable control arms and 2 new adjustable track bars.
now how creative you get can effect the items needed by removing some of this travel room from the suspension in this equation.
1.25" BL saves it from the suspension.
trimming or raising body panels also counters the amount of lift needed to achieve sufficient travel.
now how creative you get can effect the items needed by removing some of this travel room from the suspension in this equation.
1.25" BL saves it from the suspension.
trimming or raising body panels also counters the amount of lift needed to achieve sufficient travel.
Lilnuts
TJ Enthusiast
Your front fenders look like they will work with your tires if you: 1" or 1-1/4" body lift, motor mount lift with rubber bushings, Savvy TC cable, move the console back 3/4", check and install bump stops and swap out those rear flares for ones that are more flat (not so sloped towards the tire) should clear up all your rubbing issues.
Westbrook
TJ Enthusiast
For now, on the front there are steering stops that you can adjust to keep your tires from rubbing when you are at full lock. Just couple washers should do the trick.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-steering-stops-on-your-tj.3230/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-steering-stops-on-your-tj.3230/
Pretty much what I was going to suggest ☝
I'd start with a 1/1.25" (pretty much the same) aluminum body lift. A 1" motor mount lift (brown dog or MORE) and a cable shifter for your transfer case (Novak or Savvy). This would be a really good start, and there are virtually no downsides to these upgrades.
Then I'd see where things are at after all of that is complete. I'd also get the bump stop bumpers(?) in there on the off chance you do bottom out, it won't be metal to metal. As far as springs go, those tires are pretty big, you'll definitely want more lift but there are going to be a bunch of other components required to support the larger springs properly (i.e. a whole lift kit*).
What does SYE and DC shaft mean? I’m looking at suspension lift kits now and trying to find a good one which would work well.
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