A brick running through mud puddles what more can you ask for!
Brutally Harsh Ride - Out of Ideas
- Thread starter BDiddy
- Start date
A brick running through mud puddles what more can you ask for!
KennethS
TJ Enthusiast
I am not saying that is the current issue, but springs do indeed affect the ride quality. I have replaced springs on my muscle car enough to have first hand experience with the dramatic differences in ride quality between different spring rates.
Apples to oranges comparison. We are not going to turn this into a spring ride quality thread. We have enough of those already where every point you think you have to make is addressed.
find someone with a YJ and go ride with them. You will be happy, happy, happy to get back in your TJ !
KennethS
TJ Enthusiast
No. Jump on an existing spring rate ride quality thread if you are going to do this.
are you saying it rides like this ?
if so just turn the radio up !
if so just turn the radio up !
Weight change improving ride quality points to a shock problem.
Don't worry about the witness marks too much right now.
The most obvious symptom of your solution being the answer is the bushings would be shot from the bolt sleeve being broken loose from its bonding to the rubber isolation element which would then present a whole different host of issues.
I would play with some weight added in front of the tail gate behind the seat if you still have it. Are you still carrying the spare on the tail gate?
For those that are telling you how a tire will behave based on load range and aspect ratio, please understand that there are exactly zero attributes you can derive from those two factors.
I ran several sets of JK take-offs. The mud terrain versions ride like dogshit. The exact same size in the street tire tread is simply one of the better ride quality tires out there. Both are 17" rims, both have the same aspect ratio and for a 32" tire on a 17" rim, not far removed from what you are running. Night and day difference in how they feel in the cab.
I would do the shock removal test drive around the neighborhood safely at speeds which tell you how that compares to them being installed. That will tell you how much of a shock problem you do or don't have.
You've got the tire pressure thing on the way to being solved. After the shock test, do the same drive with lower and lower pressures in the tires as a test only. Go down as low as the 15 posted above.
You're just trying to isolate the cause of the harshness. What we know is it ISN'T the control arms, it isn't the body mounts. Play with and see which items improve it.
Another test that may be worthwhile is to disconnect the swaybars and take a test drive with them disconnected. If the PO used aftermarket extra-stiff bars (like the Hellwig), that could certainly contribute to a less-compliant suspension in certain bump scenarios.
Note, I highly recommend NOT doing this test at the same time as driving without shocks.
Note, I highly recommend NOT doing this test at the same time as driving without shocks.
Tangentially, I also recommend checking out the motor mounts and the transmission mount. While less likely than the previously mentioned scenario, worn out mounts will certainly contribute to NVH. If they are really bad, they could even cause the powertrain to contact something it shouldn't, which might be felt as an impact, depending on what, where, and how hard it hit.
OP
Fellas, I got a crazy update. I used tiresize.com's air pressure calculator and the calculator's math says: With factory door sticker showing 30x9.5x15 at 29psi, run 225x70r16 load range C at 35psi.
Contrary to the advice all over this forum and others, I aired back up to 33 psi cold from 25 psi cold.
I shit you not, it rides significantly smoother on ALL terrain including street, potholes, gravel, and most importantly giant deep muddy puddles at speed. Cannot make this stuff up. No more tooth rattling over seams in the street, and bumps/holes deliver a firm and confident bounce back as I'd expect from a TJ.
It was a great lesson in math beating anecdotes every time. Guessing it is because these tires are smaller than what most people online are running at 25psi or less. Whatever the case, I appreciate you fine folks entertaining this insanity. Anyone interested in a PNW TJ meetup let's do it!
Contrary to the advice all over this forum and others, I aired back up to 33 psi cold from 25 psi cold.
I shit you not, it rides significantly smoother on ALL terrain including street, potholes, gravel, and most importantly giant deep muddy puddles at speed. Cannot make this stuff up. No more tooth rattling over seams in the street, and bumps/holes deliver a firm and confident bounce back as I'd expect from a TJ.
It was a great lesson in math beating anecdotes every time. Guessing it is because these tires are smaller than what most people online are running at 25psi or less. Whatever the case, I appreciate you fine folks entertaining this insanity. Anyone interested in a PNW TJ meetup let's do it!
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OP
Yep. I’m thinking the answer is A LOT. Mine rode harsh on these tires under-inflated with RS5000X’s but became smooth with a dog, 2nd human, inside cargo, and a full outside hitch cargo tray. That had to be at least an extra 400lbs not including the driver.
Glad you figured it out, but I'm curious: does your 2000 sticker actually have a 30 size on it? Maybe you have a special edition or Rubicon? If not, it should be P215/75R15 (Sport), P205/75R15 (SE), or P225/70R16 (Sahara).