Hello everyone. I've been scouring this forum sometime for a while. So registered today and have a couple questions. Also finally bought my first Jeep TJ 2 weeks ago. I bought it solely to build a rock crawler that I can still drive around town with if I feel like. I bought a 2006 Jeep TJ unlimited (LJ) 4.0 auto with dana 44 and dana 30 front. $6,400 in good condition with a little internal frame rust. Got it specifically for the longer wheelbase. I've got a work truck and a personal 2011 F250 so it will not be used as a daily commuter at all. Just a useable fun jeep. And I will likely only be doing 5-6 crawling trips a year that I'll be trailering to. I am leaning toward a 4" lift with 35s. I will be wheeling with guys that primarily run lifted FJ80s on 35s, toyota mini trucks, and a few jeeps. Everyone has got different opinions on what to do. But anyways my question is what lift can i get that's not crazy expensive. Yes I know that this hobby is expensive. The rough country x series short arm 4" looks great for a great price on paper but I only hear awful things about them! My goal is great articulation and to run the largest tires that make sense for what I'm doing, without decimating the axles. Going to upgrade dana 30 axle shafts, possibly truss the front. And lockers front and rear. I'd run 37 if the axles would hold up and didn't have to lift so high. But I think they are no go. And of course rock sliders etc. Anyways just looking for good direction. Want to be competitive and not hold everyone up while crawling. Trying to stay $2,500-$3,000 or less on lift with tummy tuck and SYE if i need one. And then of course long arm vs short arm !!!!! But articulation and clearance is key. Seems all the threads everyone is arguing which is better. I don't mind fabbing and welding either way. Currie and metalcloak are big contenders it seems. Guess I'm looking for people that have specific setups that work well without killing the bank. Thanks !
Currie short arm. If you are really crawling rocks, then raise the center skid.
Rock Krawler is extremely popular among the JK crowd, but I can't attest to their stuff since I've never used it. I'm sure it's fine though.
Personally though, I'd just save up for the Currie or Savvy. Buy once, cry once. Take it from someone (me) who has made the mistake of not just doing it right the first time.
All you can do though is live, learn, and hope others can heed your advice!
Personally though, I'd just save up for the Currie or Savvy. Buy once, cry once. Take it from someone (me) who has made the mistake of not just doing it right the first time.
All you can do though is live, learn, and hope others can heed your advice!
First decide on your tire size. The upgrades for 35's are less expensive than the upgrades for 37's. After that decision is made then think about lift height and flex. Unless you can trade a kidney or two $3,000 will be a tough budget to keep to if you want new parts. Hell, just the 5 new tires could be half your budget.
I see that same idea a lot on here. I get the idea why it isn't beneficial, but I see the point of others too why it is. I am not planning on doing a long arm as I think a short arm will suit me perfectly as long as I can find one that articulates well. It seems a short arm kit with very flexible joints like Johnny Joints will work well. It's just that I'm only getting the recommendation for Currie, and while I'd love to spend the $2,100-2,500 on the kit I have much more to also buy like tires and wheels along with skids, armor, gears and lockers. I'm trying to find a kit as flexible as that kit but maybe slightly low quality and price. I understand I've got to lose something to be cheaper. I am not even sure I'll love it and stay in it for 10 years or more. May be tired of it in 2 years and want to sell. Who knows and unlikely. But I just don't want to invest tons of money into this one project. Because I also going camping/ RVing with my family, boating/Fishing, A lot of expensive RC trucks, four wheeling, lifting my F250 and upgrading turbo for power etc, always doing something to my house or pool or outdoor kitchen etc. All these things take a lot of money and if I always spend a ton on each of those things I'll go broke and can't enjoy them all. I've got to try to save where I can as long as it isn't a extreme sacrifice in quality or performance then I need to.You could have wasted money on a long arm.
Yes I do not have tires in that budget price. I have the lift, belly skid for tummy tuck and possibly SYE if I need it. And 35s is what I've decided on so I don't have to do too much crazy cutting or have to worry AASSSSS much about my dana 30 front axle. Hoping chromoly front shafts gets me by for a bit.
The part that is missing from that is context and the design details. Most who use a bolt on arm kit are unaware that they traded one problem for another. Which means they weren't suffering from the initial problems of lifted short arms in the first place that would show up as the opposite problem on lifted long arms.
Most long arm testamonials are quite useless beyond the attempts to justify the expense and effort.
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And to further undermine the idea of long arms, flex and articulation has nothing to do with the length of the arms. And little to do with the joints. Choose your arms and arm ends for different reasons.
Yeah. Def not planning on going long arm. Just trying to see if there’s a cheaper option that a $2,600 Currie lift
Like @Chris said in an earlier post, buy once, cry once. You get what you pay for.
Savvy or Currie with the double adjustable links/joints. 35’s on an TJ/LJ are not cheap to setup correctly. I do like the LJ on 35’s, its got the wheelbase for them.
I feel like you are asking for a magic shortcut, if done right, there isnt one. Im not trying to be malicious, an ass, or condescending. Just being honest.
Have you read through this?
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/so-you-want-to-run-35-tires-on-your-tj.2428/
And it is a cheaper option for your intended use, it just not come on a form of off the shelf package.
I have not but I will def read it. Was searching for a good read like that. Thanks. And man I hate to spend it but the curry 4” lift is calling my name.
You won't regret Currie or Savvy, and it's one of those lifts that will last you as long as you own the vehicle.
Expensive upfront, but believe me (and I truly, truly mean this), when it comes to these Jeeps, you get what you pay for.
The cheap lift is cheap for a reason. If all you intend to do is drive it on-road, then no big deal, the cheap lift will be fine. But if you want something that performs well off-road, there's simply no way to do it on the cheap, unless you have a lot of good connections!
Expensive upfront, but believe me (and I truly, truly mean this), when it comes to these Jeeps, you get what you pay for.
The cheap lift is cheap for a reason. If all you intend to do is drive it on-road, then no big deal, the cheap lift will be fine. But if you want something that performs well off-road, there's simply no way to do it on the cheap, unless you have a lot of good connections!
It's true, I originally was looking at rubicon Express type budget and got convinced to spend a little more upfront and got the savvy combo. Do not regret it at all. In 4 years that extra $400 wont even matter, but having a bombproof setup, will matter.
Do not follow that tread as a solid guide. LJ's are little different, that little it maybe what not require $3,000.00 to hang out with any rock crawler rig on 40's.