Thanks for sharing this information. I enjoy reading your posts and watching your videos. You're making progress and that is all that matters.
Thanks for the level of detail. I'm watching your swap to decide if this is something i could pull off as well.Hey TJers,
I got the BEW TDI Accessory Relocation Bracket from TDConversion installed successfully, but it was not as straight forward as I thought it might be. That being said, TDConversions/NorthWestFab replied to my emails about questions and for an instruction manual very quickly.
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So a few things you should know if you are looking at using this kit on your swap. First you will need to remove your engine hoist mount, the engine mount on the front of the timing cover and the hard line pipe that run across the valve cover. While I wasn't planning on using any of these, I also didn't realize I needed to remove them when I first started.
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Second The kit is well made and comes with all the hardware you need but I still found I had to grind a bit of the bracket so it would clear part of the cylinder head on my BEW TDI. The kit also doesn't come with instructions but you can email NorthWestFab/TDConversions and they have a set of instructions they can send to you.
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Third you will need to modify (cut and grind) the original accessory bracket. First you will need to cut a section of the factory bracket so that it clears the thermostat housing that is supplied with the kit, you can not use the factory one as it will interfere with the AC compressor. Also you will need grind some one of the ribs on the back of the factory bracket to clear the fasteners that hold their bracket to the block.
Fourth you need to install the thermostat housing before you install your accessories. There is no way to get to the bolts once you have installed the bracket from TDConversions along with the original accessory bracket on your BEW TDI.
Fifth I wasn't able to use the supplied idler pulley in their kit to get the supplied double sided serpentine belt onto the accessories. Even after getting the instructions I wasn't able to get the belt one by removing one of the alternator bolts. My solution was to get a smaller idler pulley. I had one in my shop but I've order an even smaller one so the belt is easier to install. I found this to be my biggest headache on the project. I actually tried finding a longer belt first but there aren't many options for double sided serpentine belts.
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Lastly I should mention that if you want to use this kit, you won't be able to use the original motor mount that is on the front of the engine to mount your TDI onto your frame. For me this wasn't an issue, I had planed on making other motor mounts, but I have seen plenty of people that use that front motor mount in their swaps.
With all of that said I've very pleased with the kit with all the clearances that it gave me for my swap. I no longer have to worry about the pumpkin on my Dana 30 front axle smashing into my accessories and it's is going to make it easier to fabricate motor mounts on the driver (my passenger) side of the engine.
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Here is the video if you want to watch:
Thanks
Grant
Thanks for sharing this information. I enjoy reading your posts and watching your videos. You're making progress and that is all that matters.
Thanks for the level of detail. I'm watching your swap to decide if this is something i could pull off as well.
I am with you, manual is not an option for a rock crawler IMO. I also like the NAG1 5 speed as an option to the 6R80.Sure thing and just realize that swapping with a manual transmission is 1000% easier than automatic. That being said I think the Ford 6r80 with the granny low first great and two over drives, one for highways and one for interstates, is going to work really well. It's basically a clutchless manual transmission compared to a traditional automatic like the 32rh that came in earlier TJs.
The compactness of that engine is going to make it so easy to work on!
Nice work. Definitely different.
What are you using for a cooling fan? Are you still running A/C?
Just food for thought: That intercooler adds a lot of distance / resistance for that fan to pull air through. I ran that exact Derale fan (23 amps, as I recall) on my rig pulling through the radiator, the A/C condensor, and another layer of steering and tranny coolers. It was not keeping up. I wound up switching to a more powerful Spal brushless fan which pulls something like 41 amps. That did the trick.So I'm running a 17" Two-Speed Derale fan that is 1800cfm on low and 2400cfm on high. I will be running AC as well, though initially when I get it running I won't have the lines made for it, but I'll have all the major components in place.
Just food for thought: That intercooler adds a lot of distance / resistance for that fan to pull air through. I ran that exact Derale fan (23 amps, as I recall) on my rig pulling through the radiator, the A/C condensor, and another layer of steering and tranny coolers. It was not keeping up. I wound up switching to a more powerful Spal brushless fan which pulls something like 41 amps. That did the trick.
My guess is that my rig puts out a bit more heat that your new mill will, so you will likely be fine. That Derale is a good unit. Just pay close attention to your temps when you get it going.
Great build - I'm really enjoying it.
Jeff
I am a HUGE 8274 fan and have ran one on my last 4 Jeeps and on a few other rigs too. How long is the other line that you have. I've always ran 150' of either cable or rope.
I've got to rebuild mine before i reinstall it on my rig.