Building Homer (2005 TJ Build Thread)

[mrblaine]

Hardware arrived for the slides. Love Bolt Depot's packaging. This was for one project so it wasn't as big a deal, but when I placed an earlier order with hardware for 4+ separate projects, it was so easy to separate everything and write on the bag the project name.

If those SS nyloks are for the SS screws, that is rarely a good idea. SS on SS galls way more than is pleasant when the drag of the locking element is introduced. If you want the SS fastener, use a zinc or cad plated nut or at the very least a good anti-seize.

 

[mrblaine]

Thanks for a great recommendation! McMaster is my go-to, and has been for decades, but their minimum quantity levels are frustrating at times. How's the shipping cost for Bolt Depot? Reasonable?

When I go looking for fasteners, McMaster is my last resort. I open several browsers at the same time each with one supplier and load my order into the cart. They tend to vary in shipping costs and minimum order amounts before they toss in the shipping.
Albany County Fastener
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.c...01p0FxL3RPn-BQcfUKDxdzxEbD1mUCThoC5Q0QAvD_BwE
The Nutty Company
https://www.nutty.com/
Bolt Depot as mentioned here.

Not related to most of what we do but Jake Sales has good prices on construction screws.

 

[mrblaine]

If you really are using a flap disk, @mrblaine convinced me to switch to a fiber disc to grind flat objects, and as usual, he was spot on. With the flap discs, because they aren't flat, you're constantly grinding grooves into the flat surface. The fiber disc is flat, so if you mind the angle you are holding it relative to the work piece, you can really do a much better job getting a flat finished surface. These discs are what Mr. Blaine recommended, and I use these backer plates for them. They really are a game-changer!

As I think I mentioned in my build thread when you asked, after those, I just run 40 grit discs on my random orbital sander, and unless is a glossy, clear-coated surface, I simply paint over that.

Ha, sucks to be you.

 

[sab]

Ha, sucks to be you.

You're mean. However, at least they'll get it to me overnight - as I mentioned in my build thread, that's rare:

 

[mrblaine]

You're mean. However, at least they'll get it to me overnight - as I mentioned in my build thread, that's rare:
View attachment 567937

Just razzing them folk that don't live near an Amazon warehouse. That said, we rarely use the same or overnight stuff. Most of it is the normal 2 day.

 

[JMT]

Dropped a coat of matte clear coat on the front bumper corners.

View attachment 567452

View attachment 567453

Got some stippling that I'm not a huge fan of... But I'll likely live with it these parts.

I will say that I absolutely hate the new style of the Rust-Oleum nozzle.... I can't fit my usual trigger sprayer on it.

When you get the stippling, just go lightly over it with sandpaper to knock them off and one final coat and it will be close to perfect.

I personally wouldn’t use matte paints on a Jeep. It collects too much dust. Unless it’s the frame which I use a flat Satin, I go minimum with Satin and on axles Gloss.

 

[FarFire70]

I think you read my post yesterday in my build thread. In it, I talked about deburring parts. One reason I deburr everything obsessively is that it helps prevent paint chipping on the edges like this:
View attachment 567921

Taking that sharp edge off will go a long way to preventing this type of chipping because it's tough to get paint to stick to the point of that 90° corner. It ends up very thin, and the slightest ding will lift the paint, and once a tiny spot lifts, the chipping accelerates. Personally, I wouldn't worry about taking the zinc plating off, but that's a personal call. You have to choose between form and function. I recently had to make that choice with the steel mounting brackets on the Savvy gas tank skid. I felt like the sharp corner edges would cut the gas tank, so I decided to radius the edges generously. Doing so obviously took the zinc plating off, so I had them powder-coated.

Thanks. That's a great point on the edges. I'll really need to think that over how I want to approach that vs the zinc coating.

Thanks for a great recommendation! McMaster is my go-to, and has been for decades, but their minimum quantity levels are frustrating at times. How's the shipping cost for Bolt Depot? Reasonable?

Shipping is very reasonable. Always just shy of $8. This order was smaller with 8 line-items and a quantity of about 50-60 pieces across those lines. Older order was probably 30 line-items and about 200+ pieces and still was that same $8. No extra handling fees.

If you really are using a flap disk, @mrblaine convinced me to switch to a fiber disc to grind flat objects, and as usual, he was spot on. With the flap discs, because they aren't flat, you're constantly grinding grooves into the flat surface. The fiber disc is flat, so if you mind the angle you are holding it relative to the work piece, you can really do a much better job getting a flat finished surface. These discs are what Mr. Blaine recommended, and I use these backer plates for them. They really are a game-changer!

As I think I mentioned in my build thread when you asked, after those, I just run 40 grit discs on my random orbital sander, and unless is a glossy, clear-coated surface, I simply paint over that.

You mentioned these in your build when I asked about what you were using and I started looking into them. That comment on the flat disc vs the flap is a very interesting point on reasons to use them on flat surfaces. Appreciate the added insight.

 

[FarFire70]

If those SS nyloks are for the SS screws, that is rarely a good idea. SS on SS galls way more than is pleasant when the drag of the locking element is introduced. If you want the SS fastener, use a zinc or cad plated nut or at the very least a good anti-seize.

Well, damn. Here I am thinking I'm avoiding dissimilar metal interactions by going with the SS nylocs. I'd go with anti-size anyway being in the rust belt but I'll also heed your advice and pick up zinc-plated nylocs instead of the SS.

 

[FarFire70]

When you get the stippling, just go lightly over it with sandpaper to knock them off and one final coat and it will be close to perfect.

I personally wouldn’t use matte paints on a Jeep. It collects too much dust. Unless it’s the frame which I use a flat Satin, I go minimum with Satin and on axles Gloss.

Most of what I've paints for the Jeep is skids and/or frames so I stuck in the matte arena. I also don't love a high-gloss shine on too much of the black components of the Jeep - including interior, old flares, etc.

I may need to check around in the gloss or semi-gloss just to see the finish I get since it's been a while. I don't even believe i have any gloss in the cabinet.

 

[Rickyd]

Thanks. That's a great point on the edges. I'll really need to think that over how I want to approach that vs the zinc coating.



Shipping is very reasonable. Always just shy of $8. This order was smaller with 8 line-items and a quantity of about 50-60 pieces across those lines. Older order was probably 30 line-items and about 200+ pieces and still was that same $8. No extra handling fees.



You mentioned these in your build when I asked about what you were using and I started looking into them. That comment on the flat disc vs the flap is a very interesting point on reasons to use them on flat surfaces. Appreciate the added insight.

Angle grinder til you are close. Then the flat disc.

 

[sab]

Angle grinder til you are close. Then the flat disc.

I respectfully disagree. The 36 grit Cubitron fiber disks remove material very quickly.

 

[Rickyd]

I respectfully disagree. The 36 grit Cubitron fiber disks remove material very quickly.

Thats ok.

I've been using 3m flat discs for decades. To save the expense of buying them and to have a bit more control i always use an angle grinder first. Unless it's a little sheet metal tack.

 

[sab]

I've been using 3m flat discs for decades. To save the expense of buying them and to have a bit more control i always use an angle grinder first.

All I can say is that I did the entire rear frame raise project, and then some of the step slider backer project, in my build thread on a single Cubitron fiber disc for material removal. They are nothing short of amazing! If @mrblaine hadn't recommended them, I'd never have believed how well they work (and last)!

 

[mrblaine]

Thats ok.

I've been using 3m flat discs for decades. To save the expense of buying them and to have a bit more control i always use an angle grinder first. Unless it's a little sheet metal tack.

The Cubitron have not been out for decades. It is hard to understand them until you actually use them. I've used tons of fibre discs from many manufacturers ranging from crap to pretty decent. None of them are on the same level as the Cubitron.

 

[FarFire70]

(and last)!

That's good feedback because it was one of my first thoughts on seeing the recommendation.

 

[mrblaine]

Angle grinder til you are close. Then the flat disc.

You need to clarify some. We are using the Cubitron fibre discs on a backing plate on an angle grinder. What do you mean by angle grinder?

 

[Rickyd]

The Cubitron have not been out for decades. It is hard to understand them until you actually use them. I've used tons of fibre discs from many manufacturers ranging from crap to pretty decent. None of them are on the same level as the Cubitron.

Ok,color me interested. I'll get some for my next project

 

[sab]

Ok,color me interested. I'll get some for my next project

I think you'll be impressed. I sure was!

 

[Rickyd]

You need to clarify some. We are using the Cubitron fibre discs on a backing plate on an angle grinder. What do you mean by angle grinder?

Grinding wheel or cut off disc on an angle grinder.though you could put a flat disc on one

pneumatic grinders for flat discs. I have a non reversible matco.i find they give finer control for body work
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/MT1788R/MT1788R--5-HIGH-SPEED-REVERSIBLE-SANDER

 

[mrblaine]

Grinding wheel or cut off disc on an angle grinder.though you could put a flat disc on one

pneumatic grinders for flat discs. I have a non reversible matco.i find they give finer control for body work
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/MT1788R/MT1788R--5-HIGH-SPEED-REVERSIBLE-SANDER

Are you trying to say that you use a hard grinding disc on an angle grinder first before you swap over to a fibre disc on a backing plate?

If so, you're in luck, 3M also makes hard grinding discs in the Cubitron flavor. Whatever hard disc you using now is second rate once you try one of the 3M versions. https://store.generalair.com/cubitron-ii-5-x-1-4-x-5-8-11-grind-wheel-64317/

And I see they have a new purple one out, off I go to get one to try.