"But the Guys On the Forum Said I Need This Stuff" Build

We were doing some 30mm PGU ground tests at Eglin years ago, we had a GAU-8 on a stand moored to the concrete running off an external power supply. The first time I went the guy running the show said "wanna see something cool? I'm going to do a 3 second pull, when it's shooting try to inhale."

We were standing about 10 feet away on the other side of a lexan shield, and sure enough when he fired I wasn't able to take a breath. The percussion from the rounds disrupts the air to the point that your lungs are unable to draw a vacuum.
 
We were doing some 30mm PGU ground tests at Eglin years ago, we had a GAU-8 on a stand moored to the concrete running off an external power supply. The first time I went the guy running the show said "wanna see something cool? I'm going to do a 3 second pull, when it's shooting try to inhale."

We were standing about 10 feet away on the other side of a lexan shield, and sure enough when he fired I wasn't able to take a breath. The percussion from the rounds disrupts the air to the point that your lungs are unable to draw a vacuum.
I was down at Eglin a few years ago, and to get a permit to wheel on the base you had to watch a video on dealing with unexploded shells. In one scene there is a young mother and a 5 or so year old little girl walking along when BOOM! I thought it was a little over the top, but it did get the point across...
 
I was down at Eglin a few years ago, and to get a permit to wheel on the base you had to watch a video on dealing with unexploded shells. In one scene there is a young mother and a 5 or so year old little girl walking along when BOOM! I thought it was a little over the top, but it did get the point across...
Yeah man, I've watched those! The effects are really top notch. You have to watch them to hunt on the range.

No joke though, they are out there & found often. The range is huge, something like 250k acres. They'll bomb & shell on one part of it for a couple of years, close it down, let it regrow & then open it up for recreation. Mortars & those blue BDU-33 practice bombs are usually pretty popular finds.
 
Yakima Training Center is the same way. We find tons to unexploded ordnance all the time. And then there is the fires during the summer when a tracer round will start a brush fire. All training stops and they put you to work helping fight the fires. Tons of fun.
 
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Yakima Training Center is the same way. We find tons to unexploded ordnance all the time. And then there is the fires during the summer when a tracer round will start a brush fire. All training stops and they put you to work helping fight the fires. Tons of fun.
Yeah my neighborhood was almost evacuated a few years back, we lived on the edge of the range where AC-130s practiced. It was a dry year & caught fire. The whole area had about 1/2" of ash, it was a lot of fun.
 
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Alright got the axle hung. Help me out here. From what I understand reading other threads is that I’m cycling my suspension now to square everything up. Trackbar & lowers are set roughly to stock length, uppers are what they are because I already threw the old ones away.

I stuffed the left and the right, at this point I’m lining up the bump stops? Shocks are installed, they have about 1/2” left at contact which is good.

This is what I’m looking at as it sits, the axle looks like it needs to come forward but I don’t think I have enough left in the lowers. Should I have the uppers disconnected at this point?

Right:
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Left:

6FECE995-685A-403C-A67D-9B4DEB7A280B.webp
 
Just to be sure I'm getting this right - the cups are lined up with the lower adjustments. Once I connect everything else & install the springs I'll set the pinion angle with the upper CAs. Then I'll center the axle laterally with the track bar. Is that the right order of operations?
 
Just to be sure I'm getting this right - the cups are lined up with the lower adjustments. Once I connect everything else & install the springs I'll set the pinion angle with the upper CAs. Then I'll center the axle laterally with the track bar. Is that the right order of operations?
Not aware of your tire size but, doesn't matter what the cups do if the tire hits the body.
1- set both lower arms the same length
2- install one upper and dial in approximate pinion angle
3- install trackbar and center axle side to side at ride height
4- install shocks so the travel up and down can be used to cycle the axle
5- cycle axle full articulation with a tire on the up side to check for clearances, trimming, bump stop adjustment for shocks at the same time or right before you put tire on.
6- after tire is on and articulated and any front to back adjustments have been factored in, then check the bumpstops against shock travel, how they line up, how much extra is or isn't needed.
7- fine tune pinion angle with the single upper and both lowers. Only after all else is done does the last upper get installed.

It isn't a defined step by step do this then that process. Each adjustment affects other things so the whole mess needs to be evaluated for what is going on as you dial it in.
 
Not aware of your tire size but, doesn't matter what the cups do if the tire hits the body.
1- set both lower arms the same length
2- install one upper and dial in approximate pinion angle
3- install trackbar and center axle side to side at ride height
4- install shocks so the travel up and down can be used to cycle the axle
5- cycle axle full articulation with a tire on the up side to check for clearances, trimming, bump stop adjustment for shocks at the same time or right before you put tire on.
6- after tire is on and articulated and any front to back adjustments have been factored in, then check the bumpstops against shock travel, how they line up, how much extra is or isn't needed.
7- fine tune pinion angle with the single upper and both lowers. Only after all else is done does the last upper get installed.

It isn't a defined step by step do this then that process. Each adjustment affects other things so the whole mess needs to be evaluated for what is going on as you dial it in.
I see what you're saying now. It's an overall pain in the dick doing it for the first time, but I get how it needs to end up & what all the different inputs do, so I'm figuring it out.

I got the axle centered longitudinally, with 33s I discovered that I rub with the Sahara fenders about 2" before bump stop - dunno if the wife will be good with getting rid of the fiberglass fenders, we'll see.

I installed the springs, connected the TB, put it on the ground, saw that the axle was about 1.75" off to the right, so I put it back up, removed the springs, drooped the axle until I could get the axle end of the TB out & adjust it as necessary. It's centered now.

Wasn't sure if it was safe to have both uppers removed with weight on wheels, so I jacked it up, removed the springs, supported the frame, set the axle at ride height, & set the pinion angle so the rear yoke points to the SYE yoke. Re-installed everything & it stayed put. Called TW with driveshaft measurements, should be able to pick that thing up on the way home tomorrow.

If you told me a few months ago that I had to pull the springs on a TJ I'd block off a few hours. Now I know I can do it in 10 minutes.

At least it’s on it own weight at this point

D9E5E7FA-CFC8-4A1F-AC68-5992E804D2DB.jpeg
 
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Swing over to Tom Wood’s & got my DS.

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How do these angles look? I’m about 2 degrees down on the pinion.

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Sounds like a good starting point. I hate those angle finders. No good place to put them on a short DS.
Yeah, it's pretty damn short, I had to bridge the slip joint. I measured the tube ends though & they look to be the same diameter. I'll go with it.

Anyone have a trick for torquing the pinion nut? I got a new one, & for the life of me I can't get the 160 ft lbs without moving the axle & hitting either the ground or the control arm with the end of the wrench depending what side I'm on. The manual calls out a tool to hold the yoke, I can make something out of something, wondering if there was another trick.
 
Yeah, it's pretty damn short, I had to bridge the slip joint. I measured the tube ends though & they look to be the same diameter. I'll go with it.

Anyone have a trick for torquing the pinion nut? I got a new one, & for the life of me I can't get the 160 ft lbs without moving the axle & hitting either the ground or the control arm with the end of the wrench depending what side I'm on. The manual calls out a tool to hold the yoke, I can make something out of something, wondering if there was another trick.
I used this

https://bleepinjeep.com/product/yoke-wrench-tool/
 
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Yeah, it's pretty damn short, I had to bridge the slip joint. I measured the tube ends though & they look to be the same diameter. I'll go with it.

Anyone have a trick for torquing the pinion nut? I got a new one, & for the life of me I can't get the 160 ft lbs without moving the axle & hitting either the ground or the control arm with the end of the wrench depending what side I'm on. The manual calls out a tool to hold the yoke, I can make something out of something, wondering if there was another trick.

I've used a BIG pipe wrench with a extended tube on the handle or make a yoke holding tool.

1616021764963.webp


Easy enough to make or order it from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WHRQFR/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Yeah, it's pretty damn short, I had to bridge the slip joint. I measured the tube ends though & they look to be the same diameter. I'll go with it.

Anyone have a trick for torquing the pinion nut? I got a new one, & for the life of me I can't get the 160 ft lbs without moving the axle & hitting either the ground or the control arm with the end of the wrench depending what side I'm on. The manual calls out a tool to hold the yoke, I can make something out of something, wondering if there was another trick.
Pipe wrench on narrow part of pinion yoke, other end in a cheater pipe resting on the ground.
 
Dana 44 installed & ready for a maiden voyage in a new TJ

89CAC8D7-DBD8-4F7B-910F-763BE5B541AF.jpeg

Took it around the neighborhood & was pleasantly surprised. As on who plans for the worst I already had backup plans in case this 44 was trash, even though the gears looked fine visually. Did some tight turns, no noises, no whining... Seems solid.

Drove up & down my curb for the fun of it while by non-gear head neighbor watched me.

Got up to about 40 & only noticed a tiny vibration in the shifter, the body vibes I had with the 35 & stock DS are completely gone from what I can tell.

Pedal is spongier than I like, but it stops. I bench bled the shit out of the MC, did about another 30 pumps after I saw the last air bubble. I’ve been driving my wife’s Lexus for the past week though, I may just be spoiled.

Now on to the front end! And the heater core!

FA7F6871-4BFB-46DC-ABEF-42C920FB3924.webp
 
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