Nothing wrong with building your own kit at all. It takes a good deal of research and asking a lot of questions though, as all of the components need to match your conditions and driving style.
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Buying a TJ
- Thread starter Scott89s
- Start date
Well it'll be my DD with Trail driving 2-3 times a month I don't need a huge lift or the best but I do want a good solid components I know fox and OME are both very reputable problem is none of the components have the same amount of lift listed
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Thank you for the compliment.
Going to adjustable track bars depends on how much axle misalignment you can tolerate. I think that anything over two and a half inches of lift starts to be a problem. You'll only know when you fully cycle your suspension in the driveway and see what touches and what doesn't. It's like setting your bump stops after a spring and shock install, or changing out tires for a different size.
There's been some discussion on the quality of Fox shocks...
Mixing and matching components is an art. The specs don't have to be exactly the same, but the range they operate in on YOUR Jeep needs to be compatible. Let's take my setup for example. H&R says that I'd get 1" of lift. I actually got 1-1/2" of lift. The Bilstein shocks are for 0 - 2" of lift. That falls into the range that the springs fall into. On my Jeep, I got the lift, the performance and didn't have to add bump stop. More stuff, more droop and no interference anywhere. Worked out well for me, but I had to research the snot out of it before I pulled the trigger and laid my cash down.
I know I asked earlier and nothing was really said but any opinions on BDS lifts? A local guy has a 2" lift with Springs and shocks for 300 new in box I think I could get him to 200ish. I know the warranty is great.
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I can't comment on the BDS lift, never having run it. BDS has a good reputation in the JK world though. I looked at them for my TJ awhile back but opted to go the way I did because of my local conditions and how I use my Jeep. If you are buying the lift second hand, check with BDS to see if the warranty is transferable. It may not be.
Will do. Thanks for the help I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way
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The day I bought her
1 week of owning her
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1 week of owning her
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I didn't read this thread all the way through so maybe somebody else suggested it already, but allow me to advise you on going with 4.88 gears if you're going to run 33" tires on that 2.5, not 4.56. That's what most of us run with the 4.0 on 33" tires with the 5-speed.
The 2.5 needs to drop one gearset lower than the 4.0 due to lack of power.
Absolutely thumbs-up on that astute advice. 4.56 is appropriate for 33" tires with the 4.0L engine but the 2.5L engine needs 4.88 for 33" tires when you have the 5-speed. Go 4.88, 4.56 would be a mistake that would leave you frustrated and soon wishing you had gone with 4.88 instead.
Thanks guys. I actually plan on 4.88s I'm not sure why I put 4.56s. I was back and forth at that time but after lots of research 4.88 is definitely the way to go.
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alright so I installed a 4.0 throttle body and spacer new plugs wires cap rotor and the 19lb 4 port injectors. I had the negative battery terminal disconnected for the whole time so I'm assuming the comp reset. Hers my problem at about 2k rpm in 4th gear it like sputters/hesitates and jerks for a few seconds until i either feather the throttle a few times or downshift. Also I've noticed if I Rev it its like the rpms get stuck coming back down at about 1200rpm before dropping to the normal 5-600 after roughly 10 seconds. Wondering what the issue could be it does seem more responsive and is definitely better on the highway considering 65 was pushing it before and now I can get 75-80 pretty easy until a large hill comes up. Any ideas I'm going to check for vacuum leaks and clean the throttle body alot better than I originally did. no lights on dash besides that dreaded airbag light which I can't figure out.
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And I did switch all my sensors from my 2.5 over to the 4.0 iac and housing, TPS and MAP
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Silly question here, but why did you switch to a 4.0 throttle body, spacer, 4 hole injectors & etc.? The 2.5 parts were giving you all she's got, to borrow a phrase from Scotty.
Well the stock injectors didn't look so good so I figure for 50 bucks for 4 flowmatched injectors why not the throttle body was free and I read more good reviews then bad and I'm my opinion it was an improvement. My cap and rotor was shot points were corroded wires were corroded.
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So I've heard. It seems to be a good improvement I can maintain 70 pretty easily on the highways with the crazy wind off of the fields here in MI. I just find it odd that it's only in 4th and it's hit or miss if it happens. I think the idle issue is just the comp remapping itself then again I'm pretty sure the cat and 02 sensor are factory originals also when I took off my factory tb it had oil around it. I took off the tube and fitting on top of the valve cover to clean but it wasn't clogged or anything
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