Centramatic vs Balance Masters wheel balancers

Steel City 06

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Haven't seen anyone directly compare these two, so figured I'd start a thread as I have now tried both.

Background:

Centramatic and Balance Masters both make similar active wheel balancers that mount sandwiched between the wheel hub and the wheel. They are both constructed from sheet metal and have loose mass inside the ring tube.

Active wheel balancers compensate for out-of-balance tires by redistributing the mass inside the tube to account for the out-of-balance condition. This works because an out-of-balance wheel and tire tends to wobble about its actual center of gravity rather than the wheel's geometric center. The spring-like effect of the pneumatic tire relative to the ground, plus the vehicle suspension provide a restorative acceleration that causes the mass inside the tube to be pushed towards the side of the wheel that has less mass. This effect creates a negative feedback loop that ultimately eliminates the out-of-balance condition, causing the center of gravity of the wheel assembly to assume the geometric center of the wheel.

These balancers work on the same principle as tire beads, but without the mess, plus there is no impact on bead distribution caused by the deformation of the tire at the road surface.

This active balancing method can be used to balance almost any rotating mass that is not rigidly mounted. Balance Masters, for example, also makes balancers for flywheels, airplane propellers, and driveshafts. Rigidly mounted rotating masses cannot be balanced using this method as the mass will actually tend to accumulate on the side with more mass, creating a positive feedback loop that will result in far worse imbalance or possibly even destruction of the assembly. (Also worth noting that these balancers will not correct for an out-of-round tire condition.)

Below about 15-25 mph, the balancers do not provide any balancing action. However, once the speed hits a level at which the centripetal acceleration exceeds that of gravity, the media begins to distribute around the balancer, and the balancer becomes active. Thus, the balance basically resets every time you come up to speed, thereby compensating for any changes in wheel balance, even from temporary conditions like a clump of dirt or ice.


Comparison:

The primary design difference between the Centramatic wheel balancers and the Balance Masters wheel balancers is what they put in the tube. Centramatic balancers use hardened steel shot as the weight plus oil for damping. Balance Masters use liquid mercury. Both claim their method is superior to the other.

Sound:

The centramatics tend to make a bit of noise at low speed since the media is steel shot, but it is fairly minor, akin to the sound made by a slightly rusty brake rotor. The Balance Masters are nearly silent. Both are fully silent above ~15-25 mph.

Fit:

Centramatic - The balancers come as a kit of four balancers. Two are flat, two have a slight dished offset. The variety is intended to give you the maximum chance of being able to fit a kit to both your front and rear wheels without interfering with the brakes. With stock disc brakes and no spacers, the balancers should fit without issue.
Note: with a Super 16 big brake kit, neither Centramatic balancer will fit without a wheel spacer as the pad retainer bracket will interfere with the balancer regardless of orientation. This may also apply to the 17" BBK. Not sure about the regular 15"/16" kits. (If any part of the caliper assembly protrudes past the plane of the hub, odds are it won't fit.) With 1.25" hub-adapter style wheel spacers, either balancer will work on any brake setup in any orientation.
PXL_20250914_164650045.jpg


Balance Masters - I first made the mistake of ordering the DR-1500 balancer. This has the correct bolt pattern, but I did not notice a typo on the website regarding the outer diameter, which is 16.25". So obviously they don't fit 16" rims, which I found out the hard way....
PXL_20250815_200814660.jpg

The DR-1500 might work with 17" or larger rims. They will probably not fit Super 16" or 17" big brake kits without a wheel spacer, and unknown on regular 15"/16" kits.

Balance Masters then exchanged these for a much smaller model, the JU-5:
PXL_20250914_165423278.jpg

These smaller ones will fit 15" and larger rims without any issues.

They are intended to be mounted with the dish facing inwards such that the balancer is roughly in the centerline of the wheel. In a pinch, they can also be mounted facing the opposite way to clear any calipers. (The dished area is sufficiently large that the OEM Moab rims hub surface sits entirely within the dished area with room to spare.) The dished area is also small and deep enough that it will clear a Super 16 big brake kit even without a spacer if mounted in reverse fashion. I'm fairly confident these would probably be able to work with any big brake kit.
Mounted inwards with spacers on a Super 16 big brake kit:
PXL_20250914_165223479.jpg


Finish:
The centramatic balancers are galvanized steel, the Balance Masters are black painted. (Not sure if there is galvanization or zinc coating under the paint.) Note the centramatic balancers are very dirty in these photos, mostly due to brake dust.
PXL_20250815_200827828.MP.jpg

(The black one in the above photo is the Balance Masters DR-1500.)

PXL_20250914_170233168.jpg

Balance Masters JU-5 versus Centramatic. (Note the Centramatic balancer kit includes both dished and non-dished styles. All JU-5 balancers are equivalent.)


To be continued...
 
Cost:

Balance Masters balancers are significantly more expensive, at nearly $400 for a set of four JU-5 balancers versus $250 for a set of four Centramatic balancers.

Link to the Centramatic balancers:
https://centramatic.com/product/300-345/

Balance Masters website:
https://balancemasters.com/
The JU-5 balancers are not listed on their website, but you can order by email or calling. For comparison, these are similar (perhaps identical?) to the SA-150 balancers:
https://balancemasters.company.site/Trucks-SA-150-LIFETIME-WARRANTY-PRICE-PER-AXLE-p437530622

Although pricey, they will have benefits on fuel economy and on tire wear that will counteract the overall price over time. The balancers tend to encourage more even wear of tires, so you may end up with tires that last longer. In addition, wheel/tire-induced vibration is a form of energy loss that largely converts mechanical energy (your forward motion) into heat through damping provided by the shock absorbers and the tire sidewalls. Eliminating that vibration makes the system more efficient, resulting in less power demand at speed.

Note: I have no data that would indicate how strong these effects are. It likely largely depends on how out of balance your tires are.


And most importantly, performance:

Centramatic -

The centramatic balancers have very good all-around performance, save a couple select scenarios. 95% or more of the time, they seem to nearly eliminate tire vibrations.

At higher speeds, the centrifugal force is strong enough that the beads do not move around much at speed. (Centramatic claims this is a design benefit compared to liquid mass, but I have no evidence to support or refute that claim.) This is normally not a problem as the beads set themselves in the correct location as the wheel speeds up, and the change in tire balance in a single high-speed run is infinitesimally small.

My chief complaint is that in some cases, like when hitting a hard bump, it seems the beads can be redistributed in a way that isn't as effective at balancing, causing a vibration that doesn't go away fully until slowing down to 15 mph or so and then returning to speed. In some cases, a quick hard brake tap seems to be enough to cause the beads to brake loose and reset without having to slow to 15 mph, but in other cases it could just make the imbalance worse. This condition is rare, but very annoying on long freeway drives where you would not normally go below 55+ mph for 4+ hours at a time.


Balance Masters:

These seem to be the smoother of the two options. When working, it seems to kill the vibrations even more effectively than the Centramatics do. On some road surfaces, it feels like riding on glass. They also are not affected by bumps in the road, since the liquid is free to flow regardless of how strong the centrifugal force is.

The only potential downside I could see (other than cost) to these is that the smaller diameter and (possibly, have not measured) lower mass of material inside the ring could mean that there is less overall ability to correct for large imbalances. However, with both these and the Centramatics, pre-balancing of wheels is still preferred, so unless something happens that damages the wheel assembly, this should be a non-issue.

The fact that these use liquid mercury might also put off a few people, but as long as they aren't damaged or punctured, no mercury should escape the balancer.


Extra photos:

Balance Masters JU-5 mounted in reverse:
PXL_20250914_164638792.MP.jpg

Showing that it fits the Moab rim in reverse:
PXL_20250914_164636228.jpg


Showing that it will clear the Super 16 big brake kit:
PXL_20250914_164736087.jpg

Hard to see in this 2D photo, but in person it's pretty clear that the dished area would clear the bracket on the caliper if the spacer was removed.
 
Last edited:
I have centramatics. I think they help quite a bit, but my MTRs still require a balance with stick on weights.
 
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I ran Centramatics for at least 5 years during the daily driver era. At best, they served to adjust for small disruptions in balance from mud, snow, lost weights, etc. They never replaced the need for actual tire balancing. After the hub kit went on, I gave up on them.

If these plates were closer to the diameter of the tire being balanced, they might have a more dramatic affect.
 
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I ran Centramatics for at least 5 years during the daily driver era. At best, they served to adjust for small disruptions in balance from mud, snow, lost weights, etc. They never replaced the need for actual tire balancing. After the hub kit went on, I gave up on them.

If these plates were closer to the diameter of the tire being balanced, they might have a more dramatic affect.

Bingo! It takes more weight at a shorter radius to offset the same imbalance as less weight at a longer radius to offset the same amount of imbalance. It would take much less weight in the tire than in the mentioned balancers because weight in the tire is at virtually the maximum radius.
 
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I have centramatics. I think they help quite a bit, but my MTRs still require a balance with stick on weights.

true, especially as tires get wider, you need to account for cross balancing as well as balancing in the vertical plane. I ran beads (airsoft bbs) for a while, but because I didn't account for the cross-balance, every time i went around a bend in the road, they would shake again as the two front tires would change their relation to one another. eventually i just had the tire shop balance with hammer on weights on the inside of the wheel and they were much better than they ever were with stick on weights or beads.
 
Personally I do recommend getting the tires pre-balanced as well even with these. These balancers are very good at compensating for small imbalances and for changes over time.

Large imbalances might be feasible to compensate for with these devices alone, but leave little headroom to compensate for future changes in imbalance.