Check engine light, P0344 and P0340

[Matt Robillard]

@steed8950

I'm still in the same boat as you with my 05 4.0 manual. I've replaced everything, including the pcm. Also ran a wire straight from pcm to Cam position sensor with absolutely no change. My advice is to have them pull the OPDA and inspect both the gear on the OPDA and the gear on the camshaft. Mine are both chewed up. There is a tsb from Chrysler that fixes the exact problem that we are having. It was specifically for wranglers with manufacture dates in 2005. But it is well documented in another thread that they will cover it if you put up a fight. Here is where I found all the info about the E05 TSB and how it also affects 06 wranglers.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/...-963235/index119.html#/topics/963235?page=119

 

[steed8950]

Thanks Matt,

The link didn't come through. Would you mind sending it agin. What was the result after fixing the OPDA ?

 

[Matt Robillard]

not sure why the links im posting are not working, but the title of the thread is called "Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this)" I would try googling that and it should come up.

no change on mine when i replaced the OPDA because the gear on my cam was all jacked up.

cam gear

Oil Pump Drive Gear

 

[SgtSabotage]

Matt I have a new customer with a bad Cam as well. I would like to pass this info on to him as he brought me the 2005 Jeep with 110K on it after the dealer told him that it need a camshaft, oil pump and synchronizer and dropping a new motor in it would be his best option for $5000 just in parts.

I googled that heading - are you referring to the post on jeepforum?

Where should I look for Chrysler paying for the repair?

This is his cam, P0340

Thanks CJ

 

[mots]

Matt I have a new customer with a bad Cam as well. I would like to pass this info on to him as he brought me the 2005 Jeep with 110K on it after the dealer told him that it need a camshaft, oil pump and synchronizer and dropping a new motor in it would be his best option for $5000 just in parts.

I googled that heading - are you referring to the post on jeepforum?

Where should I look for Chrysler paying for the repair?

This is his cam, P0340

View attachment 74359

Thanks CJ

Welcome. Good luck with that. That post was written in 2010 when the owner was very likely still under the powertrain warranty. 7 year/70,000 miles.

 

[Pzilly]

Believe it or not I just fixed mine today and it sounds identical to the issues that I was having on my 06. The problem with mine after 3 months of being in limp mode was a wire that was rubbed in half. It is a design flaw in my opinion. Try looking on the passenger side of the valve cover on the rear of the engine. There is a large group of wires that are real close to the valve cover in this area. Check there. I had 1 wire that was causing all of these faults. Spliced in a 3 inch piece of wire that was the same gauge and all of my faults went away. I was at my wits end with these issues. Shazam, all faults are cleared. Btw, you may want to use your old camshaft sensor. Had issues with the one that came with my opda. Good luck and I hope this helps.

Those broke wires sucks.... started my duramax one day at the airport where I teach skydiving, walked into my camper to get something and heard it stop running, tried a few things to no avail, looked at my buddy and said "hey mind towing my flat bed trailer home for me (luckily I had used it to bring the drop zone mower up i fixed) with my truck on it LOL". He of course said sure.
On way home stopped by dealer, he scanned it, comes out and says 600 bucks and it needs a new FICM and asked if I wanted to unload it. I said no...

Took it home and a day or so later looked and the FicM fuse was blown, changed it, truck tried to start then blew the fuse, I at first figured he was right, since I have a few vehicles I figured i would send it out and save a few bones, luckily once I un hooked it for some reason I decided to put a fuse in and turn the key, to my surprise the fuse blew....hmmmmmm. went up to next harness connector, unhooked, new fuse, fuse blew, went to next connector, new fuse, fuse didnt blow, interesting, rolled harness over and there she was, a wire wore through and touching the block.

My soldier iron and 50 cents of heat shrink all good, now what would the dealer have done??? I'm guessing the bill would have been $600.50.

 

[SgtSabotage]

Welcome. Good luck with that. That post was written in 2010 when the owner was very likely still under the powertrain warranty. 7 year/70,000 miles.

Thanks you Mots. That was my understanding. I would think Chrysler wont cover the repair and since I haven't read through that entire thread(123 pages) hence the question to Matt.
Thanks for your reply
CJ

 

[mots]

Thanks you Mots. That was my understanding. I would think Chrysler wont cover the repair and since I haven't read through that entire thread(123 pages) hence the question to Matt.
Thanks for your reply
CJ

You are welcome, good luck with the repairs!

 

[SgtSabotage]

So it's been about a week since the repairs done on the jeep and the light hasn't come back on so I figured that I would report back.

I didn't change the cam. I will probably will rebuild the motor if the customer wants but we are also looking at crate motors as well.

So the whole reason for the repairs were P0340 causing LIMP mode and I'm sure you all know what kind or drivability issues arise from LIMP mode.

So I changed the OPDA (Dorman), spark plugs (only 1 was gapped correctly and most were .050-.055), set the synchronizer to OE specs (I.E. I didn't just take the old old out and match the new one to it). Then I drove it around for a couple of hours to get the OBD tests to complete and took it for inspection. New Sticker and the customer said that the Jeep has never ran this good! So smiles all around so far.

CJ

 

[Jay MacLeay]

@Matt Robillard did you replace the camshaft? I think I am in the same situation...

 

[KMarks]

So, I finally got around to replacing the OPDA. I took the advice of those who said to use the existing sensor with the new assembly. The test drive after install failed miserably. The same symptoms associated with bucking after 2500 RPMs were still there. So, I decided to replace the old sensor with the new one that came with the new OPDA. After that, the test drive was much better - the problem was gone. In order to clear the check engine light and codes (P0344/P0340) I disconnected the battery for about an hour. Not sure if I needed to leave it disconnected for that long. Anyway, upon reconnecting the battery and starting the engine, the check engine light was gone.

I've been driving it for about a week now and still seems to be fine.

Well.. it's been just about a year and the problem is back. The dreaded P0344. So.. i guess the cam shaft sensor is bad again. The good news is no P0340.

 

[telephonebill]

my 06 Rubicon same issue. PCM replace 3 times, its cold out now and i get the 2400rpm crap out too. my auto repair guy is going crazy. just checked codes 0344 and 0633. So fed up with this.

 

[steed8950]

my 06 Rubicon same issue. PCM replace 3 times, its cold out now and i get the 2400rpm crap out too. my auto repair guy is going crazy. just checked codes 0344 and 0633. So fed up with this.

my 06 Rubicon same issue. PCM replace 3 times, its cold out now and i get the 2400rpm crap out too. my auto repair guy is going crazy. just checked codes 0344 and 0633. So fed up with this.

I replaced the cam position sensor from an aftermarket, NAPA one to the OEM one, and the wiring harness. That seems to have helped, unless its less than freezing. Then I'll still have issue again, previously it was happening at around 45 degrees. Sooo slight improvement.

 

[telephonebill]

I replaced the cam position sensor from an aftermarket, NAPA one to the OEM one, and the wiring harness. That seems to have helped, unless its less than freezing. Then I'll still have issue again, previously it was happening at around 45 degrees. Sooo slight improvement.

i couldnt figure it out then i realized its only when cold out side. sub 50. sucks. i have to go back to the shop and have do something else.

 

[Frank M]

I replaced the cam position sensor from an aftermarket, NAPA one to the OEM one, and the wiring harness. That seems to have helped, unless its less than freezing. Then I'll still have issue again, previously it was happening at around 45 degrees. Sooo slight improvement.

I went through this for 8 months. I had replaced opda with crown unit but couldn’t use original camshaft position sensor because it broke while taking it out. Tried 4 different cps that all would trip same codes especially when it would get cold out. Finally found a factory original and haven’t had any codes.

 

[Frank M]

i couldnt figure it out then i realized its only when cold out side. sub 50. sucks. i have to go back to the shop and have do something else.

Have you tried to let the engine get up to operating temperature, then shut off,clear codes and restart? I found this out while chasing this issue.

 

[KMarks]

my 06 Rubicon same issue. PCM replace 3 times, its cold out now and i get the 2400rpm crap out too. my auto repair guy is going crazy. just checked codes 0344 and 0633. So fed up with this.

After replacing the cam position sensor with a 3rd party part from AdvanceAuto, the problem came back. I then replaced it with a Mopar cam position sensor. It cost a lot more ($50). This was in June/2019. The problem never came back. I'm sure I just jinxed myself and the engine code will be back

 

[Jay MacLeay]

After replacing the cam position sensor with a 3rd party part from AdvanceAuto, the problem came back. I then replaced it with a Mopar cam position sensor. It cost a lot more ($50). This was in June/2019. The problem never came back. I'm sure I just jinxed myself and the engine code will be back

I constantly have to do what @Frank M suggested. I am pretty sure that the problem is the gear on the camshaft is worn down and when it gets cold it messes up the way it meshes with the opda, this is picked up by the cps and then it triggers the cel and sends the vehicle into limp mode. Once the engine heats up and the metal cam shaft gear expands, so that it meshes properly with the opda the vehicle goes out of limp mode. I am almost certain that this is the case, which means the only fix is to replace the cam shaft.

 

[telephonebill]

Have you tried to let the engine get up to operating temperature, then shut off,clear codes and restart? I found this out while chasing this issue.

Frank M, yes after its warmed up it runs fine. Cel stays on but runs ok. I am pretty sure the cams were not OEM when replaced last year. I will address it this week when i take it BACK in.

 

[Dave772]

Same odd temperature issue with my 2005 Wrangler throwing a P0344 code. starts and runs fine on warm days, throws a code and goes into limp mode on cold days. I replaced the intake air sensor and the code immediately cleared itself and so far the Jeep now starts on cold days and runs like a champ. Hope this helps!