Choosing grease

Hourlong

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Apr 1, 2019
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Colorado Springs, CO
So I’ve been trying choose which grease I want and so far I’m liking Grean Grease due to it’s advertised waterproofing and high tack. I’m just looking for suggestions on what all of you use and if you have used green grease.
 
NLGI Service Classification LB, I use Moly. Cheap is fine but if you want to spend more the sky is the limit. Service interval is far more important than grease type. I'd never use red or GC-LB like the red tacky stuff, it is also for wheel bearings and tends to be far more fluid and separate. The factory service manual describes what to use and where.
 
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NLGI Service Classification LB, I use Moly. Cheap is fine but if you want to spend more the sky is the limit. Service interval is far more important than grease type. I'd never use red or GC-LB like the red tacky stuff, it is also for wheel bearings and tends to be far more fluid and separate. The factory service manual describes what to use and where.
So I’m looking at Valvoline General Purpose with the NLGL LB and valvoline crimson with the LB rating as well. The green grease says “NLGL 1.5” but they also state that it’s best grease to use for chassis, suspension, and driveline. Opinions?
 
The NLGL 1.5 would be my last choice. I don't know if @Jerry Bransford meant Chrysler uses red and tacky in general or Lucas specifically. If it's red and tacky in general I think that's what the Valvoline crimson is, you can't go wrong following that advice.
 
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The NLGL 1.5 would be my last choice. I don't know if @Jerry Bransford meant Chrysler uses red and tacky in general or Lucas specifically. If it's red and tacky in general I think that's what the Valvoline crimson is, you can't go wrong following that advice.
I live in a wet enough environment and do plan on going through water and all of that during summer so I got drawn in by the “Waterproof” Green grease but red and tacky meets the GC-LB rating which I read is water resistant. Ive looked at online reviews for the green grease and like a lot of products there are mixed reviews. Lucas and Valvoline have a good and well known brand name so I think I would actually choose one of those instead.
 
Don't worry too much, just grease on some sort of schedule and you'll be fine. I just cleaned out my gun and greased mine because of this discussion. I'm using MasterPro EP Moly I got at oreilly for about $5. Don't let the brand names get to you, it's all marketing. If it meets the spec it's good to go.
 
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Don't worry too much, just grease on some sort of schedule and you'll be fine. I just cleaned out my gun and greased mine because of this discussion. I'm using MasterPro EP Moly I got at oreilly for about $5. Don't let the brand names get to you, it's all marketing. If it meets the spec it's good to go.
Lol I feel like I should've known it’s all marketing since I’m an auto parts salesman. But thanks for the suggestions. Also ironic I can’t pick out something I want when I have to sorta tell or suggest what my customers should get
 
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So I’m probably off on this, and I’m sure it’s on me, but, when searching on Grease, @mrblaine suggested Redline CV-2 with Moly for the Johnny Joint, but I thought he specifically said the Moly grease was not good for high speed CV joints?
I have the moly for my Johnny Joints, Red n Tacky Lucas for my Ball joints and CV.
I might have misread that and need to go back and review.
 
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I've used Red n Tacky for years. My biggest complaint about it, It liquifies in my grease gun and leaks out the bottom.
I did recently pick up a tube of Green grease, no complaints so far.
 
So I’m probably off on this, and I’m sure it’s on me, but, when searching on Grease, @mrblaine suggested Redline CV-2 with Moly for the Johnny Joint, but I thought he specifically said the Moly grease was not good for high speed CV joints?
I have the moly for my Johnny Joints, Red n Tacky Lucas for my Ball joints and CV.
I might have misread that and need to go back and review.
Good for CV, not good for bearings that turn fast or that is correct for u-joints and wheel bearings. I'd easily use it on ball joints and steering joints.

I don't know if it works in something like the stock JK driveshafts. I do know if you use it in trailer wheel bearings, it will eat them up in a few hundred miles.