OP
Colorado Daily-Driven Trail Warrior V2 - 2006 LJ
- Thread starter zachpeakee
- Start date
I follow the rule that the rim diameter should approximate half the tire size, so a 17” rim is best with 35’s. I had a chance at 5 Pinter rims several years ago. 3 had cracks. They could be repaired, but I was afraid they would be a liability. They look beautiful though.
I worry about wear patterns on used tires. I see them as a gamble. I’d check the tread depth all over each one to check for abnormalities. I’d also look to see how much weight each was taking to balance. But that’s all too much work for me, so I just buy new.
17s are a nicer wheel size for 35s than a 15" because the sidewall is more stable, which makes the tire more controlled and predictable when aired down. It's one of those cumulative small details that eventually add up into a more capable rig.
OP
OP
I also prefer the way 17's look on 35" tires.
Hadn't considered the 'aired down' aspect of them, but what you said does make complete sense.
It was a noticeable difference in how squishy the Jeep felt at my usual 8psi.
Traction seems no different than the same tire on 15s. That is the usual criticism of 17s where people fixate on the sidewall bulge. I think that is a long outdated argument.
OP
I guess that is the part of the discussion I am used to reading/seeing, but have no personal experience with.
Whether or not a 17" wheel is as capable as a 15" wheel on the same tire size.
My brain has been pushing me towards the 17" wheel, not only for the aesthetic purpose, but also because I've got my eyes set on the BMB Vanco kit, and would PREFER to run the 16" kit without clearance issues, versus buying the 15" kit (which would fit right now)
FWiW, I ran my 15/16" Vanco kit on the 16" setting inside a 15" wheel. I also tested in on a couple other 15s. The only issue I found was that the stick on wheel weights needed to not be in the path of the caliper.
OP
Full disclosure - I'm not saying they ARE...I just see some darker shades that looks like there are tread blocks or segments of tread blocks that are showing shadows or are picking up/shedding dust differently.
I seem to see this anomaly a LOT on Nitto tires, Ridge Grapplers and Mud Grapplers in particular, and I've never been able to convince myself whether it's real or whether it's just a visual artifact of the tread design with large, straight edged blocks. Most other tires have blocks that fit together like puzzle pieces, so any unevenness is probably harder to see.
I
I saw lifted tread blocks as well. It happens to a lot of 4x4 vehicles if the alignment isn't correct. I bought used tires from a dealer and decided to purchase two new ones due to lifted tread blocks (all at the same time). If you keep your alignment good, its generally not an issue.
I saw lifted tread blocks as well. It happens to a lot of 4x4 vehicles if the alignment isn't correct. I bought used tires from a dealer and decided to purchase two new ones due to lifted tread blocks (all at the same time). If you keep your alignment good, its generally not an issue.
OP
You've got me convinced enough to pass on them.
I'd rather spend double on new ones, rather than waste $800 down the drain on wonky tires.
Looking at all the pics, as you said, every other tread block IS differently shaded.
I'm not knowledgeable enough in tire compounds/design to understand the severity of what that means, so thank you for pointing it out!
Probably already started cupping. The longer you wait between rotations the worse they cup. MT's are notorious for that. These hybrids seem to have similar problems. I'm anguishing over what tire to get as well. My KO2's are about done.
Are you considering the KO3? I just learned about them this week but it sounds like some worthwhile improvements over the KO2, like more siping, quieter, and a softer compound for getter grip but higher silica content to maintain equivalent tread life.
I looked at them briefly. It does look like they made some marked improvements over the KO2, but I'm going to try the R/T's this go around.
OP
I know a few offroaders/overlanders who SWEAR by KO2/3's.
I've never payed enough attention to them to understand what reigns them as being so highly regarded.
I've never payed enough attention to them to understand what reigns them as being so highly regarded.
OP
The LJ got new Sunglasses today.
Took the LJ by my detailing shop today to have some window tint installed onto the two front doors.
No real reason, other than a sense of privacy if I want to roll my windows up and not look at people.
Also wanted a windshield strip, because the TJ/LJ 'sunvisors' might as well be thrown out completely.
They're so small and limited in their movement that I can't block the sun with them 80% of the time.
Had Lumar 15% installed, to match up with the Hardtop tint level.
Entire job came out clean, and installation was smooth. (about 30 min)
Now I'm finally sitting down at my computer, about to rally up a shopping cart full of Ball Joints, U Joints, Front Hub/Bearing units, and everything required to tackle that job.
At 65mph I still have some 'instability' or tendencies of the LJ feeling 'flighty'/'wobbly at speed.
It doesn't necessarily feel bad, just has a tendency to want to 'walk around' the road a bit.
Similar to bump-steer, but on a drastically smaller scale.
(Kind of feels like I'm always driving with the wind blowing me around) It's really an odd thing.
Seeing that my entire ZJ conversion is in great shape (and less than 3,000 miles old), everything is torqued correctly, control arms are solid, etc...
I'm pushing the blame of these driving characteristics on my worn Ball Joints, and possible worn front bearings/hub assembly.
Either way, the last 'record' I have regarding Ball Joints was lowers being replaced 40,000 miles ago, with no record of Uppers ever being replaced.
So i'm planning to replace all 4 of them for peace of mind in knowing they've been handled, as well as what mileage they are handled at.
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Side note, I reached out to Motobilt in regards to their Stubby Front Bumper.
Manufacturing times are pushed out "1.5-2 weeks" is what I was told.
However, the same Motobilt Stubby purchased through Amazon has a delivery date of 2/26 (4 days), for only $20 more than what Motobilt is charging.
So I'll probably be ordering that tonight as well to get rid of that hunk of square shit i've currently got (Rugged Ridge XHD)
Took the LJ by my detailing shop today to have some window tint installed onto the two front doors.
No real reason, other than a sense of privacy if I want to roll my windows up and not look at people.
Also wanted a windshield strip, because the TJ/LJ 'sunvisors' might as well be thrown out completely.
They're so small and limited in their movement that I can't block the sun with them 80% of the time.
Had Lumar 15% installed, to match up with the Hardtop tint level.
Entire job came out clean, and installation was smooth. (about 30 min)
Now I'm finally sitting down at my computer, about to rally up a shopping cart full of Ball Joints, U Joints, Front Hub/Bearing units, and everything required to tackle that job.
At 65mph I still have some 'instability' or tendencies of the LJ feeling 'flighty'/'wobbly at speed.
It doesn't necessarily feel bad, just has a tendency to want to 'walk around' the road a bit.
Similar to bump-steer, but on a drastically smaller scale.
(Kind of feels like I'm always driving with the wind blowing me around) It's really an odd thing.
Seeing that my entire ZJ conversion is in great shape (and less than 3,000 miles old), everything is torqued correctly, control arms are solid, etc...
I'm pushing the blame of these driving characteristics on my worn Ball Joints, and possible worn front bearings/hub assembly.
Either way, the last 'record' I have regarding Ball Joints was lowers being replaced 40,000 miles ago, with no record of Uppers ever being replaced.
So i'm planning to replace all 4 of them for peace of mind in knowing they've been handled, as well as what mileage they are handled at.
-
-
Side note, I reached out to Motobilt in regards to their Stubby Front Bumper.
Manufacturing times are pushed out "1.5-2 weeks" is what I was told.
However, the same Motobilt Stubby purchased through Amazon has a delivery date of 2/26 (4 days), for only $20 more than what Motobilt is charging.
So I'll probably be ordering that tonight as well to get rid of that hunk of square shit i've currently got (Rugged Ridge XHD)
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OP
Good eye.
They are 10" wide. (4" Backspacing)
They looked a bit better on my Sahara, due to the Sahara flares being slightly wider.
But they're a little wide for my liking on the LJ.
OP
Front Axle Refresh parts have been ordered.
Went with the full set of recommended Spicer/Timken parts.
Found out that Oreilly's up the road from me has the OTC Ball Joint Press + the OTC 4wd/Dana kit as a loaner tool.
Seeing that Oreilly's is quite literally .8 miles from my house, it's a no-brainer.
So I saved a bit of money by not needing to buy the tool myself!
Heading over to the Motobilt site now to order a bumper, then probably checking out some skid-plate options while I'm at it.
(my bank is probably going to have a 'fraud alert' field day tonight)
Went with the full set of recommended Spicer/Timken parts.
Found out that Oreilly's up the road from me has the OTC Ball Joint Press + the OTC 4wd/Dana kit as a loaner tool.
Seeing that Oreilly's is quite literally .8 miles from my house, it's a no-brainer.
So I saved a bit of money by not needing to buy the tool myself!
Heading over to the Motobilt site now to order a bumper, then probably checking out some skid-plate options while I'm at it.
(my bank is probably going to have a 'fraud alert' field day tonight)