Correct springs for my build

[parkclay]

So I have been looking to make sure that I have the correct set of springs on my build.

I am trying to build a compromise Jeep. I do not normally drive it daily unless we are traveling, I tow it behind my motorhome. But that is mostly to go wheeling and trail riding. Nothing too crazy. I wheel mostly in Colorado and have not done Chinaman or the Gulch.
I currently have the Rough Country 2.5s, I looked at the sheet in the sticky and only see the fronts listed.
I have Fox 980-24-643s 15.55, 9.60, 25.15 on the front
I have Fox 985-24-086s 15.55, 8.80, 22.55 on the rear
I have just purchased a set of Savvy Alum Jonny Joint arms front and rear(Used). I will add these once I inspect them and rebuild as needed. It currently has RE adjustable front and rear.
TJ is a non Rubicon, with a 4.0 and 6 speed.
It has a set of 35" KO2s and 35s is as big as I am going. currently locked front and rear.
I have Adams driveshafts front and rear with a SYE and 4.56 gears.
I have replaced the skid plates and added engine, steering box and will possibly add a radiator skid.
I have a Teraflex 1" body lift which I will add shortly, I am going to replace the radiator at the same time.
I have GenRight Alum fenders on the front, GenRight front and rear bumpers, and a 10k winch.
I also carry a full tool box and a complete set of recover gear, spare recovery D rings, a bunch of other straps, and a air compressor.
The TJ is a 2 door with the rear seat removed and a home made alum shelf in its place.
I currently have 15 inches of clearance between the belly skid and the ground at ride hight.
I measured the current shock up travel at ride hight, 4" in the front and 3", in the rear.
This seems to be too low to me but these are the shocks that Fox recommends for a 2 to 3 inch lift.
The midpoint of the fronts is: 4.8
The rears is : 4.4

I would prefer to not change the shocks, shocks are over 1K, springs are about $500. The intent is to keep as low as possible and still have reasonable capabilities.
Thanks
Clay

 

[jjvw]

You want a 4" spring to fit the 35s.

 

[JMT]

So I have been looking to make sure that I have the correct set of springs on my build.

I am trying to build a compromise Jeep. I do not normally drive it daily unless we are traveling, I tow it behind my motorhome. But that is mostly to go wheeling and trail riding. Nothing too crazy. I wheel mostly in Colorado and have not done Chinaman or the Gulch.
I currently have the Rough Country 2.5s, I looked at the sheet in the sticky and only see the fronts listed.
I have Fox 980-24-643s 15.55, 9.60, 25.15 on the front
I have Fox 985-24-086s 15.55, 8.80, 22.55 on the rear
I have just purchased a set of Savvy Alum Jonny Joint arms front and rear(Used). I will add these once I inspect them and rebuild as needed. It currently has RE adjustable front and rear.
TJ is a non Rubicon, with a 4.0 and 6 speed.
It has a set of 35" KO2s and 35s is as big as I am going. currently locked front and rear.
I have Adams driveshafts front and rear with a SYE and 4.56 gears.
I have replaced the skid plates and added engine, steering box and will possibly add a radiator skid.
I have a Teraflex 1" body lift which I will add shortly, I am going to replace the radiator at the same time.
I have GenRight Alum fenders on the front, GenRight front and rear bumpers, and a 10k winch.
I also carry a full tool box and a complete set of recover gear, spare recovery D rings, a bunch of other straps, and a air compressor.
The TJ is a 2 door with the rear seat removed and a home made alum shelf in its place.
I currently have 15 inches of clearance between the belly skid and the ground at ride hight.
I measured the current shock up travel at ride hight, 4" in the front and 3", in the rear.
This seems to be too low to me but these are the shocks that Fox recommends for a 2 to 3 inch lift.
The midpoint of the fronts is: 4.8
The rears is : 4.4

I would prefer to not change the shocks, shocks are over 1K, springs are about $500. The intent is to keep as low as possible and still have reasonable capabilities.
Thanks
Clay

That is a compromise Jeep.

If you want to run 35's you need to bump your lift up to 4" springs and install the body lift. Then you can run them properly.

What is the obsession with keeping your Jeep as low as possible? 4" +1" is as low as possible.

Once you get the proper lift for 35's then you can focus on the right shocks for 50:50 travel bias. Your Fox front's may be close. The rears will be too short.

 

[parkclay]

What is the obsession with keeping your Jeep as low as possible? 4" +1" is as low as possible. I have this lift and with the TT I have 19.25" clearance at the lowest part of the skid.

Trying to keep center of gravity as low as possible.
Thanks
Clay

 

[jjvw]

Trying to keep center of gravity as low as possible.
Thanks
Clay

Non issue as far as safety and capability are concerned.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Trying to keep center of gravity as low as possible.
Thanks
Clay

People overthink and over worry the COG, it's not going to roll on 99% of the trails any of us get on unless you do something really stupid. Old CJs with their narrow wheelbases rolled more easily than what we have today, that issue was fixed when the Wrangler came out with its wider wheelbase.

This guy did not roll...

 

[parkclay]

Ordered the Currie 4 inch springs. Also adding a 1 inch body lift.

 

[parkclay]

Springs are installed. Interesting, the springs have a slight bow in them. The fronts are the only ones with a bow, rears are fine. I will get the body lift installed next week.

 

[parkclay]

Picture of the bowed front springs. Any Issues with this? Is it just cosmetic?
Thanks
Clay

 

[jjvw]

Picture of the bowed front springs. Any Issues with this? Is it just cosmetic?
Thanks
ClayView attachment 314410

Is the axle centered at ride height?

 

[parkclay]

Is the axle centered at ride height?

Excellent point.
Thanks
Clay

 

[parkclay]

Excellent point.
Thanks
Clay

I looked at this and I believe the axle is too far to the rear. I have adjustable upper and lower control arms so moving the axle forward should be fairly easy.
My question is how do I determine where the axle should sit? I have an Adams driveshaft so it should have enough length based on what they told me when I bought the shaft. I can call them if needed.
I was looking at how and where to measure from and what to use. Plumb Bob?
Tons on information on side to side, but I can find nothing on centering the front diff in the fender opening.
TIA.
Clay

 

[jjvw]

I looked at this and I believe the axle is too far to the rear. I have adjustable upper and lower control arms so moving the axle forward should be fairly easy.
My question is how do I determine where the axle should sit? I have an Adams driveshaft so it should have enough length based on what they told me when I bought the shaft. I can call them if needed.
I was looking at how and where to measure from and what to use. Plumb Bob?
Tons on information on side to side, but I can find nothing on centering the front diff in the fender opening.
TIA.
Clay

Generally, you want the bump stops to be centered when the axle is raised up to full shock compression. More importantly, everything needs to clear everything else. Track bar, steering links, diff cover, gas tank, etc.

 

[Tob]

rear seat removed and a home made alum shelf in its place.

You should post up details and pics of that (maybe in a separate thread). I'd love to see it.

 

[parkclay]

You should post up details and pics of that (maybe in a separate thread). I'd love to see it.

Will Do

 

[parkclay]

Will Do

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