The premier power welders are pretty cool, it produces a high frequency while welding that makes a very smooth arc. I would contact Greg at Premier Power Welder and ask him your questions. I have never tried my welder with my flux core wire feeder (lincoln LN22) I used to run it off of a 400 amp hobart DC welder. Since flux core requires straight polarity, you can not use straight polarity on the vehicle that the welder is mated to, but it should work for equipment repairs. My alternator on my 4.0 engine for the welder is a 195 amp and it can pull the engine down pretty good, you are limited to a certain amount of time of welding before switching the welder off to allow recharging of the vehicle battery. It is a pretty cool set up and my only stick welder since I sold my gas powered hobart and replaced it with a Hobart Mig for in the shop.
Cummins R2.8 97 TJ
- Thread starter nuffsaid
- Start date
Yep I love having the Premier Power welder on my Jeep and when my rig was running I'd guess I use it about once every 4 trips out. Once on my own rig. I also have a Ready Welder and using the PPW to power the Ready Welder is nice plus with the PPW leads and the Ready Welder leads I can work on something 75' away. I carry 6011 rod with me to fix most things on the trail.
Well, the build begins! Engine is out, fuel tank out and some aluminum stock ordered to build my version of a regulator delete. I have the centerforce II clutch mounted to the quickdraw flywheel and I have removed the bell housing from the AX15. Next up will be to scarf off the motor mounts with a torch, wanted all of the fuel out of the way first! Then I will mount the quickdraw bellhousing and test fit the engine and see if my tranny can stay where it is. I think the previous owner installed one inch lift motor mounts when he did the one inch body lift, so hopefully it doesn't take too much fabrication to make the motor mounts as high as possible. My rear driveline is super short, so I need the drivetrain sloped back a bit to keep the driveline angles within reason, even with a cv rear driveline and a high pinion rear axle. I decided to ditch the factory ECM, so I cut the wiring harness that goes under the jeep from the main harness. I plan on running new wiring to most everything to keep everything simple. I am still waiting on the installation kit from cummins and probably won't see it until July. Apparently they were short the chip needed for the accelerator pedal and they are supposed to be in this week and the pedal assemblies can start to be produced.
DANG wish you hadn't cut that wiring. I need the wiring harness that goes from the firewall to the fuel tank.
Have fun and look forward to watching this swap.
I might be able to get you some of it, because I am not using any of it, I will be running all new wires. I just removed all the wiring to the tank this morning. Let me know if you want it.
Let me know if you do. Good luck with the swap. Mine project has taken me a lot longer to get it done than I'd planned.
Motor mounts are scarfed off and ground smooth, quickdraw bell housing is on the AX15. I have test fitted the R2.8 several times and I am having interference issues with the fire wall. Looks like I will have to move the transmission/doubler/transfercase forward a couple of inches. Now I need to figure out how to chuck up my front driveline in my lathe . I just got a piece of 6 inch diameter billet aluminum that I am going to machine to take the place of the factory fuel sending unit in my Genright fuel tank. Still waiting on a few more parts for the fuel tank, maybe I will do some lathe work tomorrow.
Engine is in, motor mounts are welded in place. Had to move the tranmission /doubler/transfercase forward two inches, now the drivelines need to be reworked. I barely had enough reach to weld the motor mounts, I had maybe two inches to spare with everything stretched out. Now to decide what to do with my drivelines. I could make a spacer for my rear driveshaft to go in
between the two flanges. The front shaft needs to be cut at least two inches, the bad part is my front driveline might be too long to fit in my lathe, but maybe I will try anyway. It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow, so maybe some machining will get done.
between the two flanges. The front shaft needs to be cut at least two inches, the bad part is my front driveline might be too long to fit in my lathe, but maybe I will try anyway. It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow, so maybe some machining will get done.
I have good clearance with the short oil filter installed. If I didn't have a 4 inch lift, I would be scratching my head. I might want to lengthen my bumpstops by an inch for safety. Laying in bed trying to continue the build, I got up and was searching for a solution to my driveshaft issues and it dawned on me that my front drive line has extra long splines and a very long slip yoke and my rear driveline has short splines and a short slip yoke, if I swap the yokes I think I am in business! I might also have to cut some of the splines on the front driveline, but there is plenty.
Some photos, I got really lucky, I was able to swap driveshaft yokes from front to rear and it solved the 2 inch driveline changr
Spent some time today machining a piece of billet aluminum to take the place of the factory sending unit in the Genright fuel tank. I machined a piece of 1 inch thick aluminum to mimic the plastic sending unit top. The rubber gasket will go over the aluminum piece, I bored a hole in the center for a classic industries tubular sending unit. I need to drill and tap the 5 holes for the sending unit and then drill and tap for the pick up tube and fuel feed line.