Current Atlas Wait Thread

Holy shit that was not easy. I sure hope I didn't break the case getting that mother fucker open. The foam bonded to the entire sheet of plywood so it was holding tight even with all the 2x2s cut off. I had to delaminate the plywood layer by layer and eventually reached under with a drywall saw and cut the foam.

View attachment 218821
Perfect. Now, about that dick war, still wanna have one?
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Alex01
Perfect. Now, about that dick war, still wanna have one?
I just need to know did I offend you in some manner or inadvertently talk bout your mother that you would pack this with such malice!?!

1/3 of the foam was still syrupy and liquid which made everything worse. It's all over my tools,clothes and hands. I had to chisel that shit out of white foam it set up so hard. And the chisel damaged the end of this spacer tube but I'm not quite sure of it's function right now.

PXL_20210117_234929951.jpg
 
Last edited:
Overall it was terrible please NEVER do that to me again. I regret asking for the special. getting the top off was fun but the foam was really bad. I can imagine what it would be like without plastic wrap cuz it got inside on the housing and the boot. I will gladly pay for two boxes next time!!

PXL_20210117_231822737.jpg


PXL_20210117_232945147.jpg


PXL_20210118_001705083.jpg


PXL_20210118_002936220.jpg
 
Overall it was terrible please NEVER do that to me again. I regret asking for the special. getting the top off was fun but the foam was really bad. I can imagine what it would be like without plastic wrap cuz it got inside on the housing and the boot. I will gladly pay for two boxes next time!!
Alright, I'll participate in a truce as long as you promise to never again inappropriately address a package.

But, I would have likely packaged it in a very similar fashion just to make sure it did not get damaged. Only difference would have been buying a few packs of the two part foam.
 
  • Love
Reactions: B00mb00m
That package is STILL better than packing peanuts. I hate those with a passion. Especially when I get leaky ass shocks in the mail, makes peanut soup.
Hah! The most important thing is the case is in tact so that's good. Course my phone doesn't recognize my fingerprints right now due to coating of foam on my fingertips.
 
And I for one am happy to help get it there safely. You will both hate and enjoy it. Hate that our option is this big, this heavy, and this expensive just to get a front dig option and some lower gearing.
It is BIG. This should be a fun install. I'm planning to start on it next Saturday but there's a chance I will be unable to wait...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01
That package is STILL better than packing peanuts. I hate those with a passion. Especially when I get leaky ass shocks in the mail, makes peanut soup.

I'm with you 100% on that. I hate getting anything that has been packed in peanuts.
 
That’s is histerical.
I know right? There was more than an adequate amount accelerant (weird Chris's spell checker doesn't think thats a word) used, i wanted it out of my life as fast as possible.
 
Last edited:
I'm a little confused from instructions and about to start shifter install. Do you install shifter on bench on after the box is in the rig?
You can but be sure to leave it loose. It might take some finessing to guide the shift levers into the cab as the case is raised. with a BL & a TT, it was tight but I did the following:

1. installed the shift levers on the shift tower and left it on the bench
2. Insert the full length 1/2-13 all-thread and jamb nut into the case and install into the vehicle. Pull the rear axle shift rail out so the case is in high. On the case, this one is on the drivers side.
3. Thread a spare 1/2-13 nut onto the all-thread then slide the shift tower (with shift levers attached) over the all-thread and guide the shift levers into the cab.
4. AA says to start with the rear shift lever. I went back in the cab and re-installed the console and taped a 19mm, 1/2" drive socket to the shift lever acting as a "guide". It centered the shift lever in the console opening and left about 3/8" to the back. a quick-clamp holding the shift lever to the console acted as another set of hands. Following, under the vehicle, I adjusted the spare 1/2-13 nut so the shift rail was close to the top of the case, per AA's instructions.
5. Make your 3/8"-24 link for the rear (leave a bit long). It's only for fine-tuning.
6. Shift the rear into low
7. Place front axle shift rail into Neutral
8. The socket taped to the rear shift lever helped act as a "spacer" to set the front shift lever location
9. make your shift linkage for the front.. Leave it a bit long.

The above is a good starting point but fine tuning will be needed. After it's found a "happy place" and you're 9 beers deep, 12 helps, and you're good with it, measure and cut your tower extension tube. Disassemble and re-install with the cut tube, minus the spare 1/2-13 nut. Trim the 3/8" and 1/2" all-thread to their final lengths. remember to cut the shrink tube an extra 3/8"-1/2" long and I put loctite on everything.

Good luck.
 
WEep hole question. I talked to Blaine and he mentioned he has never plugged the 42RLE weep hole in the tailstock but then Advanced Adapters instructions say this:
https://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/a-atlas-tc---tj-wrangler/On these model, Jeeps (if retaining your stock transmission), Chrysler used an oil weep hole on the stock adapter housing. This weep hole was in one of two locations: on the adapter surface where the transfer case mates to the adapter, or on the bottom center of the casting near the crossmember foot. These weep holes were designed for informing you when the seal in the tailhousing would fail. The Atlas does not always have the same input shaft length as your stock New Process transfer case to make contact to this seal and the Atlas has a double lipped seal in the front of the transfer case to prevent any fluid transfer. Therefore; we highly recommend plugging the weep hole using RTV Blue silicone (if on the adapter housing face), or RTV Blue silicone and a sheet metal screw (when located near the crossmember foot). This will prevent any type of fluid leak when installing the new transfer case. Note: the NV3550 transmission does not have this weep hole on the transmission.

I'm inclined to not plug the weep hole and atlas input shaft does seem to seal on the tailhousing so I'm not sure why they have this info here. Just checking with collective.
 
WEep hole question. I talked to Blaine and he mentioned he has never plugged the 42RLE weep hole in the tailstock but then Advanced Adapters instructions say this:
https://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/a-atlas-tc---tj-wrangler/On these model, Jeeps (if retaining your stock transmission), Chrysler used an oil weep hole on the stock adapter housing. This weep hole was in one of two locations: on the adapter surface where the transfer case mates to the adapter, or on the bottom center of the casting near the crossmember foot. These weep holes were designed for informing you when the seal in the tailhousing would fail. The Atlas does not always have the same input shaft length as your stock New Process transfer case to make contact to this seal and the Atlas has a double lipped seal in the front of the transfer case to prevent any fluid transfer. Therefore; we highly recommend plugging the weep hole using RTV Blue silicone (if on the adapter housing face), or RTV Blue silicone and a sheet metal screw (when located near the crossmember foot). This will prevent any type of fluid leak when installing the new transfer case. Note: the NV3550 transmission does not have this weep hole on the transmission.

I'm inclined to not plug the weep hole and atlas input shaft does seem to seal on the tailhousing so I'm not sure why they have this info here. Just checking with collective.
I left mine as is. I needed a half inch spacer from AA between the Atlas and the trans.