Currie Currectlync vs. Savvy Ultimate Steering

I bought my Currie steering from a guy that beat it up pretty good. I beat it up.pretty good after that and it's still working very well. I recently found another set on a 2wd Cherokee at the junkyard, so I feel pretty good about my steering for the next 10-12 years.
 
Goatman said:
How is a slight bend in a tie rod such a big problem? Reset the toe and as long as it doesn't bind or contact anything it is still perfectly serviceable.
The number of old trucks and tractor tie rods that are twisted and bent or have the rod ends welded to the outside of the rod has to be over 50% yet they still go down the road straight.
I'm not talking about the soda straw that comes stock on a TJ, but if you have a bit of a bend in the ZJ tie rod or any higher quality one then just get it back in spec and drive on.
Everybody likes to claim these are tractors. Any tractor sidelined because of a slight bow in the tie rod is more likely to be a lawnmower.
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It isn't a problem but the only reason that the Savvy tie rod even exists is because of all the posts I read from folks who made the claim that their Currie steering failed because the tie rod bent after they slammed it into a rock.

Fine, here is one you can't bend and if it breaks something else upstream, I don't want to hear about it.
 
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Goatman said:
How is a slight bend in a tie rod such a big problem? Reset the toe and as long as it doesn't bind or contact anything it is still perfectly serviceable.
....
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Clearance can be tight. When I bent mine stuff would rub and wipe a bit, so I fixed it.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
That's one reason why many of us here are so unabashedly pro-Currie.
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No doubt. Brian was great and took care of me. They have won a customer for life after that great service. Anyone who thinks bending that tie rod is a failure, is crazy. If it was one of those aluminum ones that I see on JKs, that thing would have snapped and you’d be dead in the water. I was able to continue to wheel and drive back home 3 hours on the highway.
 
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sjalkian said:
No doubt. Brian was great and took care of me. They have won a customer for life after that great service. Anyone who thinks bending that tie rod is a failure, is crazy. If it was one of those aluminum ones that I see on JKs, that thing would have snapped and you’d be dead in the water. I was able to continue to wheel and drive back home 3 hours on the highway.
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Solid aluminum can be tougher than it looks though.
 
mrblaine said:
It isn't a problem but the only reason that the Savvy tie rod even exists is because of all the posts I read from folks who made the claim that their Currie steering failed because the tie rod bent after they slammed it into a rock.

Fine, here is one you can't bend and if it breaks something else upstream, I don't want to hear about it.
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Got it! 🧐I prefer to think of it as "work hardened" so the slight bend just made the part even stronger.😁
 
BuildBreakRepeat said:
School me on the difference between their “ultimate” (not sure material) and 7075? I know 7075 is zinc alloy but I’m not sure what the ultimate is made of.
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The Savvy ultimate tie rod used to be made from heat treated 4340 steel. That's the "unbreakable tie rod" that's in the first pictures in this thread. They later changed the tie rod to be 7075 aluminum which is what's currently sold. There's nothing wrong with using 7075 in that position so long as it's an acceptable thickness to avoid cracking in the threaded portion, but it's not 4340. The strength of the 7075 ultimate tie rod is going to be comparable in strength to the Currie tie rod.
 
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toximus said:
The Savvy ultimate tie rod used to be made from heat treated 4340 steel. That's the "unbreakable tie rod" that's in the first pictures in this thread. They later changed the tie rod to be 7075 aluminum which is what's currently sold. There's nothing wrong with using 7075 in that position so long as it's an acceptable thickness to avoid cracking in the threaded portion, but it's not 4340. The strength of the 7075 ultimate tie rod is going to be comparable in strength to the Currie tie rod.
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This was Blaine's reply on the 4340 vs 7075

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I'm seriously considering doing just the currectlync drag link setup for now. The tie-rod on my stock unit lost the boot and I'm trying to ensure that it is a better than stock part. This post has been very informative indeed.
 
Ephry73 said:
I'm seriously considering doing just the currectlync drag link setup for now. The tie-rod on my stock unit lost the boot and I'm trying to ensure that it is a better than stock part. This post has been very informative indeed.
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Both or neither.
 
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