Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

3 out of 5 are cut. They are definitely a different looking tire now.
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Interesting on your tread cutting. I'm also running these but in 37. If you can re-run the same trails with conditions you've previously done and see if you make any obstacles differently. I haven't loved the traction, and have tried more than a few different pressures. I've considered going back to a 35" in MTR or a 37" KM3 next.
 
B00mb00m said:
Interesting on your tread cutting. I'm also running these but in 37. If you can re-run the same trails with conditions you've previously done and see if you make any obstacles differently. I haven't loved the traction, and have tried more than a few different pressures. I've considered going back to a 35" in MTR or a 37" KM3 next.
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Finishing the last two right now. One thing I can tell just on the street is that the loud squealing noise these tires make during a turn or hard stop is disappearing as I keep cutting.
 
Ran one of the trails from two weeks ago to compare the grooved tires. I think there is a definite improvement with less slipping. I'm going to cut a bit more.
 
jjvw said:
As part of this project, I switched to Currie bump stops. For my purposes, I am only installing the shortest configuration, the upper replacement jounce and the lower pad. It turns out that this thickness is a perfect match to the track bar as to the Johnny Joint reaches the end of it's travel. Again, this is putting the up travel at about 5.75 from ride height.
View attachment 140902
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@jjvw: I'm not sure if I missed it, but I can't find a definitive answer on how to properly adjust the Currie front bump stops taking into account the fact that the poly will compress. Forgive me if this is covered here in this thread (which I have read!) or perhaps another. I've seen some recommendations to allow for about 1 inch of compression, but that's a bit vague. Do you have any guidance on how to modify the typical bump stop adjustment process (of fully cycling the suspension) specifically for the Curries? My current setup is OME lift with 33's and 1" extension on the lower pad on my '05 Rubicon, and that works for me, but I had money burning a hole in my pocket and bought the Curries (plus they are eye candy).

I'm going to cycle the suspension again to fit the new Curries regardless, but if you have any advice to offer that would be great!

~John
 
John Young said:
@jjvw: I'm not sure if I missed it, but I can't find a definitive answer on how to properly adjust the Currie front bump stops taking into account the fact that the poly will compress. Forgive me if this is covered here in this thread (which I have read!) or perhaps another. I've seen some recommendations to allow for about 1 inch of compression, but that's a bit vague. Do you have any guidance on how to modify the typical bump stop adjustment process (of fully cycling the suspension) specifically for the Curries? My current setup is OME lift with 33's and 1" extension on the lower pad on my '05 Rubicon, and that works for me, but I had money burning a hole in my pocket and bought the Curries (plus they are eye candy).

I'm going to cycle the suspension again to fit the new Curries regardless, but if you have any advice to offer that would be great!

~John
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There is a bit of foggy voodoo surrounding that. I'm going with about 1/4-3/8" of compression, knowing that movement is being slowed down by the bumps along with the time/distance of the shock travel. The soft interferences from the tires, I am paying slightly less attention to than I have in the past. There will be some rub, even when I am done sorting out the front axle. I dealt with the track bar by bending it. On mine, the big interference that would cause damage is the mini truss contacting the oil pan. Worse case, the axle would have to push through the shocks and a good amount of bump stop to get there. I believe I am safe in that one.
 
B00mb00m said:
Interesting on your tread cutting. I'm also running these but in 37. If you can re-run the same trails with conditions you've previously done and see if you make any obstacles differently. I haven't loved the traction, and have tried more than a few different pressures. I've considered going back to a 35" in MTR or a 37" KM3 next.
Click to expand...

If you decide you want to cut your tires I have a Ideal tire groover with a bunch of different sized blades you can borrow.
 
jjvw said:
There is a bit of foggy voodoo surrounding that. I'm going with about 1/4-3/8" of compression, knowing that movement is being slowed down by the bumps along with the time/distance of the shock travel. The soft interferences from the tires, I am paying slightly less attention to than I have in the past. There will be some rub, even when I am done sorting out the front axle. I dealt with the track bar by bending it. On mine, the big interference that would cause damage is the mini truss contacting the oil pan. Worse case, the axle would have to push through the shocks and a good amount of bump stop to get there. I believe I am safe in that one.
Click to expand...
how close does your truss get to the pan? my top joint would contact the A/C compressor b4 the truss would get into the O-pan. your truss extension is not very tall.
as you get forward the slight slope of the pan can buy you some space, possibly.
 
someguysjeep said:
how close does your truss get to the pan? my top joint would contact the A/C compressor b4 the truss would get into the O-pan. your truss extension is not very tall.
as you get forward the slight slope of the pan can buy you some space, possibly.
Click to expand...

I think 3/4". Can't remember since the recent changes.
 
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