Pretty sure I’ll be OK…but, I’ve never noticed that before.
Just think how were all changing our pronunciation.
Pretty sure I’ll be OK…but, I’ve never noticed that before.
Just think how were all changing our pronunciation.
So we've stoppednowmeow?
FIFY
The more I think about the rough powder coat Crawltech provides, the less I like it and the likelihood of the finish texture catching dust the way bedliner does. So, I started wet sanding.
View attachment 499914
I ordered some cans of body color matched spray paint. The outside surfaces of the fenders are now going to be sienna pearl. Then I have to decide if the interior engine bay surfaces will also be body color or a semi-gloss black.
Who’d you order the paint from?
If that is the actual order, there is a better choice except for the primer part. The clear in this is far superior to what they included in your order.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3538348758...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Order amended to the nicer clear coat. Thanks!
The 2K stuff is a superior product for a rattle can. The only downside is having enough prepped stuff to use a can since once you pop the catalyst, it has a short shelf life. Or worse, is needing 1 1/4 cans of the stuff to get your 2-3 coats done.
I used that same brand for the 2K epoxy primer on my frame rehab 2 years ago. It went on nicer by far than anything else I’ve used from a rattle can. I still don’t think I nailed the adhesion, though.The 2K stuff is a superior product for a rattle can. The only downside is having enough prepped stuff to use a can since once you pop the catalyst, it has a short shelf life. Or worse, is needing 1 1/4 cans of the stuff to get your 2-3 coats done.
I used that same brand for the 2K epoxy primer on my frame rehab 2 years ago. It went on nicer by far than anything else I’ve used from a rattle can. I still don’t think I nailed the adhesion, though.
View attachment 500146
Here’s the prep after stripping wheel/flap disc and rust reformer:
View attachment 500134
Then the 2K primer (which was followed by a Krylon semi flat top coat):
View attachment 500133
And here is a performance report:
This is a pretty hard rock hit from Moab last year. I bumped the throttle to get up a ledge climbing out of the creek at the end of Steelbender. Note the area of actual contact circled and the much larger area of smooth, bare metal where the primer and top coat just lifted off:
View attachment 500139
Not a fair comparison but look at this tow hook I had powder coated. Only the scratched metal is bare, with no surrounding loss:
View attachment 500140
Do you have any tips for getting better adhesion with a rattle can and not baking the paint on? Or is trying to achieve powder coat performance from a rattle can to lofty a goal? In thinking about it, I also suspect the UCA bracket flexed a lot more than the tow hook with their respective impacts which may have contributed. But body panels, like @jjvw ’s fenders are susceptible to that kind of flexing as well.
I used that same brand for the 2K epoxy primer on my frame rehab 2 years ago. It went on nicer by far than anything else I’ve used from a rattle can. I still don’t think I nailed the adhesion, though.
View attachment 500146
Here’s the prep after stripping wheel/flap disc and rust reformer:
View attachment 500134
Then the 2K primer (which was followed by a Krylon semi flat top coat):
View attachment 500133
And here is a performance report:
This is a pretty hard rock hit from Moab last year. I bumped the throttle to get up a ledge climbing out of the creek at the end of Steelbender. Note the area of actual contact circled and the much larger area of smooth, bare metal where the primer and top coat just lifted off:
View attachment 500139
Not a fair comparison but look at this tow hook I had powder coated. Only the scratched metal is bare, with no surrounding loss:
View attachment 500140
Do you have any tips for getting better adhesion with a rattle can and not baking the paint on? Or is trying to achieve powder coat performance from a rattle can to lofty a goal? In thinking about it, I also suspect the UCA bracket flexed a lot more than the tow hook with their respective impacts which may have contributed. But body panels, like @jjvw ’s fenders are susceptible to that kind of flexing as well.
You need a self etching primer, then the epoxy primer...but not generally on the frame (since surface quality is a lesser concern). My process is self etching primer and then top coating. May try the clear coat next time I have paint out, just to help keep things clean.
I thought etch and epoxy primers were both meant for bare metal? I don't think you are supposed to combine them.
Epoxy is a non-porous primer which seals out moisture where as etch doesn't making it better for mild steel if you don't top coat.