hi, first post so go easy
For context, I am based in the U.K., so some bits are simply not available as they are not made for right hand drive
I am currently planning a full rebuild of my 2002 TJ. Current spec looks like:
- 2.5" skyjacker lift with front arms and t-case drop
- 1.5" body lift
- 4.56 dif gears
- 33's on offset steel wheels with offset and spacers
- Dana 44 rear, Dana 30 front with arb lockers
- warn front and rear bars with winch
- rock sliders
- snorkel
- manual swaybar disconnect
in this spec it is fine off-road with the exception of needing lower t-case gearing because it is an auto. It is not so great on road. The difs whine over 50mph and the steering is vague, it drifts around and needs correction. Top speed seems to be 70mph by which time it is making scary noises and wiggling a bit.
My build aspiration is to improve off-road performance for U.K. Conditions, which is mud, ruts and side-slopes, while dramatically improving onroad performance. Usage will be daily driving, medium to long haul for camping trips with 5+ hour highway stretches and weekly local off-roading in mud, ruts and side-slopes
If I had to come up with a spec, it would look a bit like this. The rig needs to be able to:
1) easily sustain 80mph on the motorway with excellent stability
2) stock level of on road handling or better
3) low COG and better side roll over angle
4) better rut and mud clearance
My thoughts on spec are as follows (this is a keeper and I want to do it properly, budget not really a problem):
1) LS1 engine and 4L60-e auto transmission (enough power to meet 80mph requirement, lighter than the 4ltr inline 6, not so much power that I need to change difs beyond getting stronger axle shafts)
2) keep stock new process 231 transfer case
3) SYE
4) keep Dana 44 and Dana 30 axles, regear to 4.88, rebuild to stop whining, keep arb lockers, add stronger shafts
5) disc brake rear conversion and big brake front conversion
6) 35x12.5 MT for extra rut clearance, 17 inch alloys to save on weight and clear big brakes (don't really need to air down much as no rocks in the uk, just mud)
7) keep same offset and spacing to preserve width and side roll-over angle
8) 3" long arm lift kit for better road handling and no rocks to get hung up on
9) swayloc by ORO automatic swaybar disconnect (need to keep as much sway bar as possible for onroad performance, I think Currie systems adds to body roll on road even on hardest setting)
10) 1 inch body lift to facilitate tummy tuck
11) tummy tuck
12) tube fenders from genright to facilitate 35s with only a 4" lift
Questions I have are:
1) can I keep my current axles and just go for better shafts? I am super gentle off road, but have a heavy right foot on road and want to hear the V8
2) will the above setup clear 35s or do I need to go with highline tube fenders
3) do I need the body lift for the tummy tuck or can I do it without a body lift thus achieving better COG
4) which long arm kit is best for on road / are there really alternatives (like Currie mid arm kit) that really deliver as good on road performance as long arm at this level of lift
5) are there off the shelf steering kits (like the currie one) that can get steering sorted or am I looking at custom build to make it perfect. Likewise for track bar
6) what is the best solution for better transfercase gearing (lower) without introducing whining and noise that will drive me nuts on long haul drives sometimes a problem with putting in aftermarket gear sets
Sorry for the long first post and appreciate the help
Shabeen
For context, I am based in the U.K., so some bits are simply not available as they are not made for right hand drive
I am currently planning a full rebuild of my 2002 TJ. Current spec looks like:
- 2.5" skyjacker lift with front arms and t-case drop
- 1.5" body lift
- 4.56 dif gears
- 33's on offset steel wheels with offset and spacers
- Dana 44 rear, Dana 30 front with arb lockers
- warn front and rear bars with winch
- rock sliders
- snorkel
- manual swaybar disconnect
in this spec it is fine off-road with the exception of needing lower t-case gearing because it is an auto. It is not so great on road. The difs whine over 50mph and the steering is vague, it drifts around and needs correction. Top speed seems to be 70mph by which time it is making scary noises and wiggling a bit.
My build aspiration is to improve off-road performance for U.K. Conditions, which is mud, ruts and side-slopes, while dramatically improving onroad performance. Usage will be daily driving, medium to long haul for camping trips with 5+ hour highway stretches and weekly local off-roading in mud, ruts and side-slopes
If I had to come up with a spec, it would look a bit like this. The rig needs to be able to:
1) easily sustain 80mph on the motorway with excellent stability
2) stock level of on road handling or better
3) low COG and better side roll over angle
4) better rut and mud clearance
My thoughts on spec are as follows (this is a keeper and I want to do it properly, budget not really a problem):
1) LS1 engine and 4L60-e auto transmission (enough power to meet 80mph requirement, lighter than the 4ltr inline 6, not so much power that I need to change difs beyond getting stronger axle shafts)
2) keep stock new process 231 transfer case
3) SYE
4) keep Dana 44 and Dana 30 axles, regear to 4.88, rebuild to stop whining, keep arb lockers, add stronger shafts
5) disc brake rear conversion and big brake front conversion
6) 35x12.5 MT for extra rut clearance, 17 inch alloys to save on weight and clear big brakes (don't really need to air down much as no rocks in the uk, just mud)
7) keep same offset and spacing to preserve width and side roll-over angle
8) 3" long arm lift kit for better road handling and no rocks to get hung up on
9) swayloc by ORO automatic swaybar disconnect (need to keep as much sway bar as possible for onroad performance, I think Currie systems adds to body roll on road even on hardest setting)
10) 1 inch body lift to facilitate tummy tuck
11) tummy tuck
12) tube fenders from genright to facilitate 35s with only a 4" lift
Questions I have are:
1) can I keep my current axles and just go for better shafts? I am super gentle off road, but have a heavy right foot on road and want to hear the V8
2) will the above setup clear 35s or do I need to go with highline tube fenders
3) do I need the body lift for the tummy tuck or can I do it without a body lift thus achieving better COG
4) which long arm kit is best for on road / are there really alternatives (like Currie mid arm kit) that really deliver as good on road performance as long arm at this level of lift
5) are there off the shelf steering kits (like the currie one) that can get steering sorted or am I looking at custom build to make it perfect. Likewise for track bar
6) what is the best solution for better transfercase gearing (lower) without introducing whining and noise that will drive me nuts on long haul drives sometimes a problem with putting in aftermarket gear sets
Sorry for the long first post and appreciate the help
Shabeen
