Death Wobble Question

I wasn't planning on pressing in the new barrel. I took the old (new) JJ out and put in the new JJ Currie sent me. However, the tool I made to compress the joint to install/remove the snap ring is all buggered up now. I was using a long bolt, washer, and sleeve but the washer gets all bent and applies uneven compression on the JJ washer so the snap ring won't seat fully. I got lucky the last time when I reinstalled with the shims.

I wanted to try the new JJ without shims to see if the issue was the JJ. If not then I'll install shims. But I'm looking at a ton of removal and reinstall and was looking for a better way to remove and install the JJs.

Or am I better off just removing the entire JJ and barrel and installing the new joint and barrel they sent?
Fix the tool.
 
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Fix the tool.
Buying new hardened hardware tomorrow to make a new tool. One last question for now, assuming the new JJ doesn't solve the issue and I still need to shim, is there a recommended material? The coffee can lid seemed to be extruding out from behind the washers. I am thinking nylon washers the thickness of double the lid material should work. Any reason to stay away from any particular material?
 
Buying new hardened hardware tomorrow to make a new tool. One last question for now, assuming the new JJ doesn't solve the issue and I still need to shim, is there a recommended material? The coffee can lid seemed to be extruding out from behind the washers. I am thinking nylon washers the thickness of double the lid material should work. Any reason to stay away from any particular material?
Nylon would be fine. That and you have crappy coffee can lids. ;)
 
Fix the tool.
New JJ tool. Works like a charm. Now let me dial out this DW.

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Well, unsuccessful. Put in the new driver's side JJ to rule out the issue just being the JJ. Test drive...back to full-on DW. Next shim out new JJ. Since my temp shims were .02, I doubled to .04. Hell of a lot of preload...almost not a joint anymore. Seems more like a bushing now.
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Test drive...still DW. Ok, let's remove the passenger side .02 shims and install the .04 shims. Test drive...still wobbling, although it fades without having to slow down or stop.

I'm at a loss. If I toe out to over 5/8" it eliminates the DW. Can't run it like that. All bolts torqued to spec and components and joints in seemingly good working order. Last shot in the dark, would be my bolts to all my suspension and steering components. When should one replace them? After how many uninstalling and reinstalling of components. I've lost count of how many times I've removed and reinstalled things during this build. All are grade 8 and a year or less old. However, I know torquing bolts over and over can push them from elastic deformation to plastic deformation territory. Thoughts on my bolts just not holding the necessary torque values anymore? @mrblaine
 
Well, unsuccessful. Put in the new driver's side JJ to rule out the issue just being the JJ. Test drive...back to full-on DW. Next shim out new JJ. Since my temp shims were .02, I doubled to .04. Hell of a lot of preload...almost not a joint anymore. Seems more like a bushing now.
View attachment 182029
View attachment 182030View attachment 182031View attachment 182032 Test drive...still DW. Ok, let's remove the passenger side .02 shims and install the .04 shims. Test drive...still wobbling, although it fades without having to slow down or stop.

I'm at a loss. If I toe out to over 5/8" it eliminates the DW. Can't run it like that. All bolts torqued to spec and components and joints in seemingly good working order. Last shot in the dark, would be my bolts to all my suspension and steering components. When should one replace them? After how many uninstalling and reinstalling of components. I've lost count of how many times I've removed and reinstalled things during this build. All are grade 8 and a year or less old. However, I know torquing bolts over and over can push them from elastic deformation to plastic deformation territory. Thoughts on my bolts just not holding the necessary torque values anymore? @mrblaine
If the bolts were the issue for now, you should see witness marks of them moving in the holes.
Put the rig on jack stands, idle it in gear in 4wd and carefully look at everything that turns for run-out. See if the rotors are wobbling, check the axle shaft yokes are spinning true, check the driveshafts for true. Anything that moves.

Watch the tires for any tread hop or squirm.
 
If the bolts were the issue for now, you should see witness marks of them moving in the holes.
Put the rig on jack stands, idle it in gear in 4wd and carefully look at everything that turns for run-out. See if the rotors are wobbling, check the axle shaft yokes are spinning true, check the driveshafts for true. Anything that moves.

Watch the tires for any tread hop or squirm.
Think I found it.
 

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Good job. Some days I amaze even myself. ;)
Thank you. It was while we were talking that I thought about that particular event that happened while removing the front axle. Now I gotta pop that cap back on and restore the preload to the rod end. Thanks again
 
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Well took it to a shop and it appears there is nothing to press in. So it's just a bad rod end. Will need to order a new one.
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Well, the drag link tie rod end (although it needed replaced) not the source of the wobble. I cant even say it was a contributing factor. Brand new Currie TRE and no or imperceptible change. Only thing that has noticeably affected it to the positive was adding preload to the upper CAs at the axle.

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Get your tires balanced again

I had a pair of wheels and tires I had balanced more times than I can remember. Hit a bump at 45, DW. Got new wheels and tires, never a wobble since. Everything was and still is tight.
 
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