DylanM345 build

i bought it online from walmart. Just make sure its the same paint code obviously. Yours is flame red, not chili pepper red correct?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Jeep-Wra...ngle-Stage-Paint-for-Car-Auto-Truck/623477186
I must say it is not an exact match as of right now, its just slightly off but it still needs to cure im sure. Although I think it just seems that way because of the orange peel. When I sand it and polish it, ill let you guys know how well it matches.
It's very difficult to butt match a color that is 15+ years old. Luckily for you, your red is a solid color and not a metallic, like @Alex01 's. Those are super tough to butt match. Body shops cheat and blend the paint into the adjacent panels to give it the appearance of a good match, then clearcoat the entire panel to a break line. What will help you the most is polishing the adjacent panels as well as the doors. Doing so will bring the pop back in the tired out and faded red. Other than black, red is the worst at fading over time.
 
It's very difficult to butt match a color that is 15+ years old. Luckily for you, your red is a solid color and not a metallic, like @Alex01 's. Those are super tough to butt match. Body shops cheat and blend the paint into the adjacent panels to give it the appearance of a good match, then clearcoat the entire panel to a break line. What will help you the most is polishing the adjacent panels as well as the doors. Doing so will bring the pop back in the tired out and faded red. Other than black, red is the worst at fading over time.
Thats the plan👍 Detail the whole thing and see how well I can get it to match. Ill take a day and get it looking good again.
 
Also keep in mind, not all pigments are created equal. Lower cost paint comes at a price, vs. PPG, Dupont, Sherman Williams, as just a few examples of top tier paints. And let's not forget variations of the same paint code. So glad I got out of that business 15 years ago.
 
Thats the plan👍 Detail the whole thing and see how well I can get it to match. Ill take a day and get it looking good again.
Im sure I mentioned this at the house but make sure to wait a few months before adding any wax to the doors. You need to let it cure/breath. @bobthetj03 probably has a better idea of timing though.
 
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Im sure I mentioned this at the house but make sure to wait a few months before adding any wax to the doors. You need to let it cure/breath. @bobthetj03 probably has a better idea of timing though.
Ive heard that before too. Ive been told to let them sit at least 30 days before waxing etc.
 
i bought it online from walmart. Just make sure its the same paint code obviously. Yours is flame red, not chili pepper red correct?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Jeep-Wra...ngle-Stage-Paint-for-Car-Auto-Truck/623477186
I must say it is not an exact match as of right now, its just slightly off but it still needs to cure im sure. Although I think it just seems that way because of the orange peel. When I sand it and polish it, ill let you guys know how well it matches.
From the pics your door color looks better than the Duplicolor PR4 spray cans I used on my tailgate.

01A2B346-F6DA-4030-AEEF-541901B7751E.jpeg
 
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Here's a better pic out of the garage. If you zoom in and see where my old fender flare was(3 gray bolt holes) youll see that paint matches the doors pretty well since it has been covered most* of its life from the flare. Hoping I can get the whole thing to match🤞
6E57CF71-87DF-4A10-8F10-646B11F7E6B8.jpeg
 
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From the pics your door color looks better than the Duplicolor PR4 spray cans I used on my tailgate.

View attachment 290816

I used duplicolor spray cans on my rear fenders and one side came out looking like your tailgate color, the other side came out almost a damn near perfect match. Duplicolor spray cans are super inconsistent and have a ton of splatter:cautious:
 
Here's a better pic out of the garage. If you zoom in and see where my old fender flare was(3 gray bolt holes) youll see that paint matches the doors pretty well since it has been coveredost of its life from the flare. Hoping I can get the whole thing to match🤞
View attachment 291037
It looks pretty good. If I wasn't looking specifically at the pic to see the difference, I wouldn't notice.

My passenger door (which came off another Flame Red rig) may be a slight shade closer than yours. It will be interesting to see if it darkens. Or maybe you just need to do the whole Jeep! 😉
 
Its the small projects that I enjoy for some reason. My mirrors were peeling, so I painted them semi gloss under the assumption that if it looks like shit then ill replace them since they are cracked anyway. Also per @mrblaine 's recommendation, I grabbed some high temp braided hose for the york today.
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DC58994B-9698-4AE3-8E47-552FF3BE7687.jpeg

A48433F1-21AF-4543-8DB1-2779796C6631.jpeg
 
Its the small projects that I enjoy for some reason. My mirrors were peeling, so I painted them semi gloss under the assumption that if it looks like shit then ill replace them since they are cracked anyway. Also per @mrblaine 's recommendation, I grabbed some high temp braided hose for the york today.
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You may want to consider purchasing a prefabricated air compressor discharge hose from your local truck parts supplier. They come in different lengths and have SAE swivel fittings. Makes for a nice clean install without the annoying worm clamps and frayed hose ends.
https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/hdvalue-compressor-discharge-hose-15536
 
You may want to consider purchasing a prefabricated air compressor discharge hose from your local truck parts supplier. They come in different lengths and have SAE swivel fittings. Makes for a nice clean install without the annoying worm clamps and frayed hose ends.
https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/hdvalue-compressor-discharge-hose-15536
The only reason I used hose clamps were because the brass nipples on the york head, separator, and the openings on the PS cooler I used were both barbed fittings and I couldn't thread anything onto them. Ive tried the soap and water trick and so far no bubbles (y). The downside is it kinda looks like crap lol
 
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I would figure out your lengths and go to a hose store and have them make you hoses with crimped on connections. They might have NPT fittings but I went with JIC.
 
You may want to consider purchasing a prefabricated air compressor discharge hose from your local truck parts supplier. They come in different lengths and have SAE swivel fittings. Makes for a nice clean install without the annoying worm clamps and frayed hose ends.
https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/hdvalue-compressor-discharge-hose-15536
I would figure out your lengths and go to a hose store and have them make you hoses with crimped on connections. They might have NPT fittings but I went with JIC.
Back to this, could I get a pre cut high temp hose with some sort of hose clamp already crimped on both ends? That would be something I would definitely buy.
 
Back to this, could I get a pre cut high temp hose with some sort of hose clamp already crimped on both ends? That would be something I would definitely buy.
I went to my local hose shop in the port, told them i want 3/8" high temp stainless braided hose for air in XX" length, with female -6 JIC fittings crimped on. There is a chance they will have fittings that are pipe thread, or you can just adapt to JIC from the NPT.
 
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I went to my local hose shop in the port, told them i want 3/8" high temp stainless braided hose for air in XX" length, with female -6 JIC fittings crimped on. There is a chance they will have fittings that are pipe thread, or you can just adapt to JIC from the NPT.
This is rated to 450F but i think its overkill and more expensive than if you went to a hose store.

https://www.mcmaster.com/hose/hose-...-chemical-hose-with-female-threaded-fittings/
What's your hose rated to?
I could do that for the discharge side of the york and remove the barbed brass nipple, but I still would need something to connect onto the barb of the cooler hence why Im using hose clamps.