Eaton e-locker owners
- Thread starter gatertamer
- Start date
No compressor needed.
I installed the wiring harnesses and switches. i don’t recall the locker-install cost partially bc he just gave me a total after doing gears, lockers, axles, manual hubs (I’ve successfully forgotten what that total was).
I would do it again.
I was scared to death to do my sye and d/c shaft a few weeks ago never having done one before...but it took only about 3 hours to finish.....a lot easier than I thought... maybe this is the same
It's the backlash that scares me the most...I just got regeared a few years ago so I'm keeping my 4:56's
Don't be scared of that. Setting backlash is simply getting your shim stack right, which might happen the first time, or the 12th. I took measurement from my original setup, did the math and had things right the second go, but then I second guessed that because it wasn't "perfect", so I did it probably four more time for fun or something just to wind up where I was.
All is well now.I was more scared of the wiring as I'm not an electric guy, but that too was pretty simple.
I thought about doing the work because doing so is rewarding.
But then I realize I’d need to buy special tools, I’d likely need to redo my work multiple times, I didn’t have a clean place to do the job, I wanted piece of mind that it was done right and/or under warranty, and I’ve only had two regears done in twenty years.
Edit: I was also overwhelmed by the thought of needing to do the gears, lockers, manual hubs, and BBK with no spare time.
The Eaton E-locker is an electrically actuated locker. No compressor needed. The ARB air locker and Yukon Zip locker are air actuated and require a compressor or source of regulated compressed air.
Emphasis bolded. That is the entire reason I had a shop do the work. As long as you follow the break in procedure the shop will honor the warranty if something was screwed up on the installation.
As I recall the price per axle was $3000-3500 (post-Covid pricing). It included the locker, wiring, switches, new gears, axle seals, bearings, etc. Basically, I drove away with "new" differentials minus the housing, axle shafts, and u-joints when I left the shop.
I understand you guys wanting a little peace-of-mind with a guarantee on new gears, but if the OP is reusing his current gears, which he is, then there is no break-in.
That cost sounds about average. My actual cost for a Super35 setup was around $1,750 with me doing all labor and hunting down the best prices documented here > https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/super-35-cost.69877/
I never said the OP must do as I (we) did. I merely pointed out one of the reasons why I did it the way I did and what it cost me. The OP was asking for a cost and I did not see where anyone offered up the cost before I posted. Glad to see you indicated the cost for your experience. Now the OP has a rough idea of what it will cost if he does the work versus a shop doing the work.
If you are re-using your gears, make sure you measure backlash prior to disassembly. Then set to the same spec upon reassembly.
Indeed, just replacing carrier means dealing only with backlash, as the pinion depth stays the same.
I would do it myself, it is simple enough and requires on the magnetic dial for backlash measurements, setup bearing and races for the carrier and that it is pretty much it..
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