Electric door locks and power windows: Not cool?

RubiconMike said:
I installed the same kit on both my '03 and '05 Jeeps. It was easy to install, and worked reliably on both Jeeps. I used the switches that came with it, like you did, on my '03. Back then, the instructions had the switch pod mounted over the hole left when you removed the manual window crank. It was right where my knee leaned against the door and I was always unhappy with that. It looks like your kit has a plug over the window crank hole, and the switches are mounted higher up, a much better arraignment.
Click to expand...

The instructions still tell you to mount the switches where the manual cranks were located. I figured out that was going to cause a problem with my knee and also that it would be sort of difficult to reach, so I installed them up higher in front of the latch handle. That has worked very well and it is quite nice having more room for your knee without the crank handle (or switch). The plugs for the crank handle holes did not come with the kit. I bought them on Amazon.
 
TurboTJ said:
The instructions still tell you to mount the switches where the manual cranks were located. I figured out that was going to cause a problem with my knee and also that it would be sort of difficult to reach, so I installed them up higher in front of the latch handle. That has worked very well and it is quite nice having more room for your knee without the crank handle (or switch). The plugs for the crank handle holes did not come with the kit. I bought them on Amazon.
Click to expand...

Well done, you are smarter than me. That was a great solution. I never did fix the issue on my '03, I just lived with it. :p

It was only when I bought the '05 that I came up with a better solution.
 
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When I bought my TJ, the prev owner had installed auto door locks (driver and passenger) along with a car alarm. It was by a brand called power mate and it came with a key fob. It came with door actuators installed inside the door panels. The alarm would randomly go off and it was very annoying. I wanted to remove it and install the factory skim module instead. However, when I got to the wiring, it was a CF nightmare and I decided to yank the entire thing out. Took me a few hours to undo everything and it was a pain.

My old Mazda (1999 Protege, still using it) doesn't have the auto door locks working anymore and it's too much labor to replace the actuators, so I have been using just the key for the last couple years. The TJ is no different. Summer time I use my soft top with no back/rear windows and it doesn't matter if the doors are closed or locked anyway. Winter time I have my hard top.

I did install a tailgate strut to help open (and keep it open) and shut the tailgate more easily and after installing that I have no complaints with TJ doors.

https://www.morris4x4center.com/hoodlift-by-warrior-rear-tailgate-strut-war93106.html

It still amuses to see unknowing friends climb in, search for the window down/up button and then realize they see the hand crank that it's all manual :risas3:
 
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psrivats said:
The alarm would randomly go off and it was very annoying. I wanted to remove it and install the factory skim module instead. However, when I got to the wiring, it was a CF nightmare and I decided to yank the entire thing out. Took me a few hours to undo everything and it was a pain.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was a professional auto electronics installer for around 15 years. Like any other installation business, there are good installers and bad ones. (Blaine has mentioned that he's seen the same thing in his business). I have to say almost every alarm problem I dealt with was due to a poor installation. Usually alarms that randomly go off were due to setting the sensors being set far too sensitively. Setting the impact sensor so it goes off "when a pin drops on it" (I've actually had people ask for that) means it will also go off whenever a truck or harley drives by, or when a squirrel jumps on it. By the time the owner goes out to look, the initiating incident is long gone.

My alarm was installed in '05 and has impact, glass-break, and ultrasonic proximity sensors. I did not set the sensors to be highly sensitive, so I never get false alarms. A decent alarm installed properly will give years of service. A poorly installed one will be trouble from day one.
 
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RubiconMike said:
I installed the same kit on both my '03 and '05 Jeeps. It was easy to install, and worked reliably on both Jeeps. I used the switches that came with it, like you did, on my '03. Back then, the instructions had the switch pod mounted over the hole left when you removed the manual window crank. It was right where my knee leaned against the door and I was always unhappy with that. It looks like your kit has a plug over the window crank hole, and the switches are mounted higher up, a much better arraignment.

For my '05, I bought an extra set of switches from the same company, and mounted them in the dash where both the driver and passenger can reach them. I did my own wiring using two relays instead of their harness.. I also have power door lock motors in my full-size and half-size doors, as well as the rear tailgate. Since I wasn't using the factory third brake light, I used that door switch for the tailgate motor. for the front, I used four pin wiring harness connectors so I could easily remove and swap the doors. I needed four pin connectors since I have both locks and power windows in the full-size doors. (five pins are only needed if you control the passenger window from a switch on the driver's door). I may convert them to the pin-style connectors that Blaine posted.

The power window switches mounted in the dash. Above the switches on the right is a little rocker switch for the door locks, and on the left is the override button for the alarm.
Click to expand...

Where did you buy your kit?

Nice touch with the trailer plug, I'm being serious. On my other TJ, I had used some 6-pin molex plugs with pigtails that I had laying around. After doing that, do you think that the door lock actuators would fit in half doors? Maybe I'm just being lazy but I'd really like remote lock/unlock.

Thanks
 
dbbd1 said:
Where did you buy your kit?

Nice touch with the trailer plug, I'm being serious. On my other TJ, I had used some 6-pin molex plugs with pigtails that I had laying around. After doing that, do you think that the door lock actuators would fit in half doors? Maybe I'm just being lazy but I'd really like remote lock/unlock.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks, I chose the trailer plugs because they are generally weatherproof and you can find them with some decent-sized wire on them. Just be careful not to get the ones with a skinny white ground wire.

Door lock actuators will absolutely fit in half-door, I have them in mine. They are wired up to the same type of plug, so when I switch doors, I just plug them in and everything works. I have one in the rear tailgate also, for that I use the factory third brake light door connector.

What type of actuators are you using? I'm using the type illustrated below, you can fit them in almost anywhere. If depth is a problem, you can use a bellcrank so you can mount them at a 90 degree angle.

1547843549879.png


Bellcrank example:
1547843834022.png
 
RubiconMike said:
Yeah, I was a professional auto electronics installer for around 15 years. Like any other installation business, there are good installers and bad ones. (Blaine has mentioned that he's seen the same thing in his business). I have to say almost every alarm problem I dealt with was due to a poor installation. Usually alarms that randomly go off were due to setting the sensors being set far too sensitively. Setting the impact sensor so it goes off "when a pin drops on it" (I've actually had people ask for that) means it will also go off whenever a truck or harley drives by, or when a squirrel jumps on it. By the time the owner goes out to look, the initiating incident is long gone.

My alarm was installed in '05 and has impact, glass-break, and ultrasonic proximity sensors. I did not set the sensors to be highly sensitive, so I never get false alarms. A decent alarm installed properly will give years of service. A poorly installed one will be trouble from day one.
Click to expand...

Once I saw the wiring I knew it had to go. I really should have taken photos of that hot mess.

I think the factory SKIM is a very solid option for our TJs (if you can still find a dealership or someone else to program it for you to accept the right keys). You of course don't get all different kind of sensors etc that comes with an aftermarket alarm but your TJ is not going anywhere without the correct, programmmed key.
 
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psrivats said:
Once I saw the wiring I knew it had to go. I really should have taken photos of that hot mess.

I think the factory SKIM is a very solid option for our TJs (if you can still find a dealership or someone else to program it for you to accept the right keys). You of course don't get all different kind of sensors etc that comes with an aftermarket alarm but your TJ is not going anywhere without the correct, programmmed key.
Click to expand...

Yes, different security systems for different issues. The factory SKIM is to prevent someone from pulling out the factory ignition and hot-wiring the vehicle. My alarm is to make a lot of noise to prevent someone from taking the time to rip the stereo out of the dash, or remove any of the other bolted-down items. It also does starter interrupt and ignition kill, plus I have the factory SKIM.

Don't put too much faith in any system though, modern tow vehicles can pick up a car and be gone in minutes - they don't need to start it. :-(

 
RubiconMike said:
Thanks, I chose the trailer plugs because they are generally weatherproof and you can find them with some decent-sized wire on them. Just be careful not to get the ones with a skinny white ground wire.

Door lock actuators will absolutely fit in half-door, I have them in mine. They are wired up to the same type of plug, so when I switch doors, I just plug them in and everything works. I have one in the rear tailgate also, for that I use the factory third brake light door connector.

What type of actuators are you using? I'm using the type illustrated below, you can fit them in almost anywhere. If depth is a problem, you can use a bellcrank so you can mount them at a 90 degree angle.
Click to expand...

I have ordered any yet, not before I knew if they would work.
Got any recommendations on where to find the ones that you are using?
Thanks for the help.
 
dbbd1 said:
I have ordered any yet, not before I knew if they would work.
Got any recommendations on where to find the ones that you are using?
Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

I would just buy cheap ones off Amazon or your store of choice. I don't know of any brand that is better than any other, they are probably all made in the same factory in China, anyway. After years of installing them from a variety of sources, I don't remember any of them failing. If they did fail, a replacement is only a few bucks, and if you install them yourself, the labor is "free".

BTW, for those who don't know, here's a trick for twisting long lengths of wire together: fasten one end in a vise or some other method of holding it. Stretch the wires out, clip the ends so they are the same length, the stick the ends in the open chuck of the drill, and tighten the chuck around the wires. Run the drill until the wires are tightly twisted together (you'll know when). Open the chuck and you'll have a nice bundle of wires that look like one big wire.

You can see a twisted set in the background of the picture below. There are blue, white, and yellow wires twisted together.
P8240005.JPG
 
Got it, thanks.
And, got them ordered...


I've got a DEI system in the jeep now, it was in it when I bought it. But it only served as an idiot light and an ignition lockout. I'll just be tying those actuators into that system.
 
dbbd1 said:
Got it, thanks.
And, got them ordered...


I've got a DEI system in the jeep now, it was in it when I bought it. But it only served as an idiot light and an ignition lockout. I'll just be tying those actuators into that system.
Click to expand...

DEI is nice, they bought up a bunch of the major brands, including Clifford, which I have in my car. Let me know if you have any questions about hooking the locks up.
 
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RubiconMike said:
I installed the same kit on both my '03 and '05 Jeeps. It was easy to install, and worked reliably on both Jeeps. I used the switches that came with it, like you did, on my '03. Back then, the instructions had the switch pod mounted over the hole left when you removed the manual window crank. It was right where my knee leaned against the door and I was always unhappy with that. It looks like your kit has a plug over the window crank hole, and the switches are mounted higher up, a much better arraignment.

For my '05, I bought an extra set of switches from the same company, and mounted them in the dash where both the driver and passenger can reach them. I did my own wiring using two relays instead of their harness.. I also have power door lock motors in my full-size and half-size doors, as well as the rear tailgate. Since I wasn't using the factory third brake light, I used that door switch for the tailgate motor. for the front, I used four pin wiring harness connectors so I could easily remove and swap the doors. I needed four pin connectors since I have both locks and power windows in the full-size doors. (five pins are only needed if you control the passenger window from a switch on the driver's door). I may convert them to the pin-style connectors that Blaine posted.

The power window switches mounted in the dash. Above the switches on the right is a little rocker switch for the door locks, and on the left is the override button for the alarm.
View attachment 72875

Larry the cable guy "git 'er done" door plugs
View attachment 72876

Power door lock motor and power window motor installed
View attachment 72880

Finished door (the OEM look)
View attachment 72881
Click to expand...
Looks very professional .
 
RubiconMike said:
DEI is nice, they bought up a bunch of the major brands, including Clifford, which I have in my car. Let me know if you have any questions about hooking the locks up.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I found the wiring diagram online and it is supposed to have built-in, 30a capable relays. It seems straight forward: +12 to h1/7 and h1/9, ground to h1/6 and h1/17 and actuators across h1/5 and h1/8
image.png
 
RubiconMike said:
I installed the same kit on both my '03 and '05 Jeeps. It was easy to install, and worked reliably on both Jeeps. I used the switches that came with it, like you did, on my '03. Back then, the instructions had the switch pod mounted over the hole left when you removed the manual window crank. It was right where my knee leaned against the door and I was always unhappy with that. It looks like your kit has a plug over the window crank hole, and the switches are mounted higher up, a much better arraignment.

For my '05, I bought an extra set of switches from the same company, and mounted them in the dash where both the driver and passenger can reach them. I did my own wiring using two relays instead of their harness.. I also have power door lock motors in my full-size and half-size doors, as well as the rear tailgate. Since I wasn't using the factory third brake light, I used that door switch for the tailgate motor. for the front, I used four pin wiring harness connectors so I could easily remove and swap the doors. I needed four pin connectors since I have both locks and power windows in the full-size doors. (five pins are only needed if you control the passenger window from a switch on the driver's door). I may convert them to the pin-style connectors that Blaine posted.

The power window switches mounted in the dash. Above the switches on the right is a little rocker switch for the door locks, and on the left is the override button for the alarm.
View attachment 72875

Larry the cable guy "git 'er done" door plugs
View attachment 72876

Power door lock motor and power window motor installed
View attachment 72880

Finished door (the OEM look)
View attachment 72881
Click to expand...

That's a very clean install. I like the dash buttons, they look OEM. @Chris will like these pictures too.
 
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dbbd1 said:
Thanks. I found the wiring diagram online and it is supposed to have built-in, 30a capable relays. It seems straight forward: +12 to h1/7 and h1/9, ground to h1/6 and h1/17 and actuators across h1/5 and h1/8View attachment 72961
Click to expand...
Excellent! In case you're interested, here's the diagram of what the relay is doing.
At rest H1/5 (#30) is connected to H1/6 (#87a). When you trigger the relay, it connects H1/5 to H1/7 (#87).

1547910170753.png
 
psrivats said:
That's a very clean install. I like the dash buttons, they look OEM. @Chris will like these pictures too.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I try for the OEM look on everything, it's just my thing. Putting the switches in the middle had a couple of advantages, less wiring (only two wires to each door for the power windows instead of 5 wires in the driver's door), and both the driver and passenger can work both windows.
 
Just installed power locking in mine and love em!
Have you guys wired the recieving block to your turn signals so it flashes during Lock/Unlock?

Currently having a hard time finding the wiring block for Turning Signals.
 
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