Engine knock getting worse, ideas on next steps

[mgroeger]

Well it's gone. My buddy pulled the pan and two of the bearings (I forget which two) were cooked. That means the crank comes out and at the very least we need to replace the bearings. Factor in that fact that we know I'm burning oil which means now is the time to do the rings. Factor in the other fact that I have a pretty loud lifter tap and it's just easier to replace the engine.
We crunched number of having machine shop redo head and block and then having my friend reassemble vs. getting a new ATK engine and it's smarter just to get the engine and pick up a two year warranty to boot. Nows not the time to cut corners so I just need to suck it up and bite the bullet. I did look into a stroker vs. regular and the price difference was considerable. Need to do some more research on where to get the engine. This sucks considering we just put new axles on the Mrs. Jeep... this was not the time for this to happen, but then is it ever?

 

[mgroeger]

Mine sounds similar, definitely following this thread. Was hoping to get a couple years out of the 4.0 before having to dig into it but might go straight to an LS. I have a buddy whos done one in a TJ and he said its not super complicated.

Keep us posted on what you find. I've been thinking it was bearing so was going to run it till it let go and go new but if its just a timing belt I'll get on that ASAP.

Yeah I thgought about the LS1 option as well and Chevy makes the LS1 version for their Caddy and trucks. We found one for $400 with low miles which really got me thinking and he said yeah you need to add like $3500 to that to do the conversion. It's not complicated but it's also not cheap.

 

[astjp2]

Its not much more money to put in a stroker vs a stock rebuild and the extra 60 horsepower is nice.
https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34

 

[mgroeger]

Its not much more money to put in a stroker vs a stock rebuild and the extra 60 horsepower is nice.
https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34

What I'm finding is the strokers are considerably more than a reman'd. Do you have a website you are referring to for this info?

 

[astjp2]

The link I provided was not enough? You can buy one off the shelf for a lot of money or build it yourself for the price of a crank and rods over a stock rebuild. The other main cost is injectors...

 

[mgroeger]

The link I provided was not enough? You can buy one off the shelf for a lot of money or build it yourself for the price of a crank and rods over a stock rebuild. The other main cost is injectors...

OK, you thought I was rebuilding myself so I see how that could be similar to buying a re-man. Unfortunately I do not have the time to do that so my friend offered to either rebuild or swap but of course I will need to pay him. It looks like even with a re-man and my frieneds time I'm not walking away from this mess for under 2.5k

 

[pagrey]

Have you considered a used engine? It isn't really normal for them to die early. If a WJ engine fits you are gold, those are dime a dozen.

 

[mgroeger]

Have you considered a used engine? It isn't really normal for them to die early. If a WJ engine fits you are gold, those are dime a dozen.

I had considered that but it's not easy to find one with less than 100k from what I have seen and I'm super nervous that I will just get the same type of problems if not now then in the future... oil consumption, knock, lifter tap.

 

[astjp2]

PM me with your number and I will walk you through a rebuild vs a stroker... with your friends help, cost wont be much more.

 

[U8MYDZT]

Well it's gone. My buddy pulled the pan and two of the bearings (I forget which two) were cooked. That means the crank comes out and at the very least we need to replace the bearings. Factor in that fact that we know I'm burning oil which means now is the time to do the rings. Factor in the other fact that I have a pretty loud lifter tap and it's just easier to replace the engine.
We crunched number of having machine shop redo head and block and then having my friend reassemble vs. getting a new ATK engine and it's smarter just to get the engine and pick up a two year warranty to boot. Nows not the time to cut corners so I just need to suck it up and bite the bullet. I did look into a stroker vs. regular and the price difference was considerable. Need to do some more research on where to get the engine. This sucks considering we just put new axles on the Mrs. Jeep... this was not the time for this to happen, but then is it ever?

Man... Sorry to hear she is dead. I sure do hope you get your baby back on the trails soon!! Mine has about 250k on the cluster and I am just waiting for the day it gives out.
How long have you had the Jeep?

 

[mgroeger]

Man... Sorry to hear she is dead. I sure do hope you get your baby back on the trails soon!! Mine has about 250k on the cluster and I am just waiting for the day it gives out.
How long have you had the Jeep?

I've owned the Jeep one year and put around 7k on it. It has 120k on it right now. Sucks that the engine went already but it is what it is. I think when I was dealing with "low oil pressure" issues months ago it might really have been a real oil pressure problem and not a bad sending unit. I know from reading around here that the sending units can flake out. Hard to tell because it was fine, then random, then daily, then random and now fine again which leads you to lean towards it was a bad sending unit. Who knows.
Engine wise, I can get one right from ATK with a 3 year warranty delivered to my friend's door for $1986 plus tax that doesn't include the $510 core charge which is fine because I get that back. I think that is the best deal out there right now, that also includes the 10% off deal ATK is running through tomorrow.

 

[Airjunky]

Similar experience with my 4.0, and with only 116k miles on it.
I was able to easily find rebuilt engines, usually with 2 or 3 year, 50k - 70k mile warranties. But strokers only had 1 yr, 10k mile warranties, or less!
I found a good parts source on Partsology.com. And a local machine shop who did the head and short block assembly for like $750.
Good luck with your work. It was an interesting learning experience for me.

 

[U8MYDZT]

I've owned the Jeep one year and put around 7k on it. It has 120k on it right now. Sucks that the engine went already but it is what it is. I think when I was dealing with "low oil pressure" issues months ago it might really have been a real oil pressure problem and not a bad sending unit. I know from reading around here that the sending units can flake out. Hard to tell because it was fine, then random, then daily, then random and now fine again which leads you to lean towards it was a bad sending unit. Who knows.
Engine wise, I can get one right from ATK with a 3 year warranty delivered to my friend's door for $1986 plus tax that doesn't include the $510 core charge which is fine because I get that back. I think that is the best deal out there right now, that also includes the 10% off deal ATK is running through tomorrow.

Oh crap... I just got mine a few weeks ago and my oil pressure gauge is all over the place. But so is my fuel gauge so I just thought it was a flaky cluster. After reading this I am going to stick a mechanical gauge on her this weekend. Sorry to change the subject, but what exactly was your oil gauge doing? My gauge will drop to 0 when I am at a stop, then randomly come back up while still stopped, then drop out again. This repeats a few times until I get moving then all is good.

 

[mgroeger]

Similar experience with my 4.0, and with only 116k miles on it.
I was able to easily find rebuilt engines, usually with 2 or 3 year, 50k - 70k mile warranties. But strokers only had 1 yr, 10k mile warranties, or less!
I found a good parts source on Partsology.com. And a local machine shop who did the head and short block assembly for like $750.
Good luck with your work. It was an interesting learning experience for me.

This engine is 3 yrs unlimited miles and transferable which I was pretty impressed with. Buying a stroker is out of the question because of cost. As much as I would love to take on this adventure myself I simply do not have the time. I have a friend who is an amazing mechanic and charges a very fair rate for friends and family so that is the path I am going to take. I know I could save a chunk of money doing it myself but it would take considerably longer and this is my DD.

 

[mgroeger]

Oh crap... I just got mine a few weeks ago and my oil pressure gauge is all over the place. But so is my fuel gauge so I just thought it was a flaky cluster. After reading this I am going to stick a mechanical gauge on her this weekend. Sorry to change the subject, but what exactly was your oil gauge doing? My gauge will drop to 0 when I am at a stop, then randomly come back up while still stopped, then drop out again. This repeats a few times until I get moving then all is good.

You just described exactly what my oil gauge was doing. Yep, run a mechanical gauge into your cockpit and watch that. If that puppy tanks you know you have an oil pump problem. I'm sure older wiser men have better input but that is what I would do. Or you could replace the sending unit asap to see if it fixes the gauge. Do you notice the idle get a bit rougher or a ticking coming from under the valve cover when your gauge tanks? I was told the ticking is a sign the engine isn't getting enough oil.
@Jerry Bransford @Chris @mrblaine have much more wisdom than I do and may be able to help you diagnose your problem and avoid any engine damage.

 

[U8MYDZT]

You just described exactly what my oil gauge was doing. Yep, run a mechanical gauge into your cockpit and watch that. If that puppy tanks you know you have an oil pump problem. I'm sure older wiser men have better input but that is what I would do. Or you could replace the sending unit asap to see if it fixes the gauge. Do you notice the idle get a bit rougher or a ticking coming from under the valve cover when your gauge tanks? I was told the ticking is a sign the engine isn't getting enough oil.
@Jerry Bransford @Chris @mrblaine have much more wisdom than I do and may be able to help you diagnose your problem and avoid any engine damage.

Thanks for the information. Didn't even consider it was a hydraulic lifter engine and would tap under low pressure. Mine doesn't have any tapping or stumbling, actually runs really well. But I am going to get an oil pressure gauge anyways.

BTW, IMO your engine choice is spot on. I ran a little side business fix cars and building engine and it was always less stressful when a customer would bring an engine with a warranty. I am a damn good engine builder, but it's nice not to bare the burden of something as finicky as an engine.

 

[mgroeger]

Thanks for the information. Didn't even consider it was a hydraulic lifter engine and would tap under low pressure. Mine doesn't have any tapping or stumbling, actually runs really well. But I am going to get an oil pressure gauge anyways.

BTW, IMO your engine choice is spot on. I ran a little side business fix cars and building engine and it was always less stressful when a customer would bring an engine with a warranty. I am a damn good engine builder, but it's nice not to bare the burden of something as finicky as an engine.

What are your thoughts on ATK? I'm getting mixed reviews.

 

[U8MYDZT]

What are your thoughts on ATK? I'm getting mixed reviews.

I have not used ATK before so I can't give any good insight. And honestly I have never built a Jeep/Chrysler engine before so I can't give any specific information about them. I could tell you all about Hondas, Chevys or Fords though. (Sorry not much help I know)

 

[mgroeger]

I have not used ATK before so I can't give any good insight. And honestly I have never built a Jeep/Chrysler engine before so I can't give any specific information about them. I could tell you all about Hondas, Chevys or Fords though. (Sorry not much help I know)

Go away.

lol... JK

 

[U8MYDZT]

Go away.

lol... JK

But I wanna play in the sandbox with you guys....