Family's First LJ - 2006 Rubicon Build

With the Memorial Day sales going on through a few different companies, I'm looking at going ahead and ordering a transfer case skid plate for my planned tummy tuck. I'm looking at UCF (Under Cover Fabworks) 1/4" Aluminum Extra Clearance model that are 2" deep. The Savvy model gets rave reviews as well but comes in at quite a bit more money (but it may be worth it?).

With a 1.25" Body lift planned (Savvy or JKS?), 1" Motor Mount lift, double adjustable rear control arms and Savvy Cable shifter for the 241, what is my best option for a tummy tuck skid plate? Steel or Aluminum?
 
I’m really looking forward to seeing some progress pics when you get the time to work on it. Very jealous of your part list it’s going to be one hell of a Jeep!
 
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With the Memorial Day sales going on through a few different companies, I'm looking at going ahead and ordering a transfer case skid plate for my planned tummy tuck. I'm looking at UCF (Under Cover Fabworks) 1/4" Aluminum Extra Clearance model that are 2" deep. The Savvy model gets rave reviews as well but comes in at quite a bit more money (but it may be worth it?).

With a 1.25" Body lift planned (Savvy or JKS?), 1" Motor Mount lift, double adjustable rear control arms and Savvy Cable shifter for the 241, what is my best option for a tummy tuck skid plate? Steel or Aluminum?

I've been going back and forth on aluminum vs steel on my under armor. I think I decided on Steel. Aluminum can be gummy, and doesn't have the surface hardness of steel, so it doesn't slide as easily as steel. At least...in my mind that is how it works. Obviously, granite is harder than both, so they will both not "slide" over rocks, but less scratches are better than more...
 
I've been going back and forth on aluminum vs steel on my under armor. I think I decided on Steel. Aluminum can be gummy, and doesn't have the surface hardness of steel, so it doesn't slide as easily as steel. At least...in my mind that is how it works. Obviously, granite is harder than both, so they will both not "slide" over rocks, but less scratches are better than more...

If I go with UCF for the Transfer Case, Transmission and Engine skid plate system there is less than $100 difference between 3/16" Steel and 1/4" Aluminum skids. I really, really like the Savvy setup I've seen but for the price of their transfer case skid I could get all three parts covered from UCF. The Savvy is aluminum as well and people run the crap out of it so I don't doubt it holds up. I'm just looking at toughness vs weight between the two.
 
So I'm getting ready to take the Mopar Rock Crawler Rear Bumper to powdercoat but am trying to decide the best course of action to minimize the bend or middle buckle that occured with the previous owner. There are two shackle attachement points added to this bumper by the previous owner and they were used to tow a vehicle off a trail but the stress caused the passenger side to pull out putting a bow in the middle. As you can see in the pictures below it doesn't sit flush against the rear of the frame.

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I ran to Lowes yesterday and got some longer bolts for each side and proceeded to try to straighten it against the frame. While it did start to snug up it also started to pull on the corners of the rear frame bracing (the weakest, thinnest area that most likely bent when he used his LJ to pull) so I didn't continue to snug it up.

Here is a pic from the Driver's side:

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I'm thinking of ordering frame tie-ins as that may help to reinforce those weak mounting points when I go to snug it up but what would be a good and safe option for attempting to straighten the bumper as much as possible? Ideally I'd like to brace the middle while pulling backwards on the two edges.
 
Got a delivery from UCF yesterday. If UPS couldn't damage this aluminum skid plate then rocks don't stand a chance!

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Another part that showed up for the Tummy Tuck were the 1" lift motor mounts from Brown Dog Off Road.

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Maybe the package I was most excited about were the Mopar Rock Crawler sliders I located. These were new in the box and will replace my factory Rubicon side rails while still working my the Savvy 1.25" body lift. (Something the Body Armor 4x4 rails wouldn't do)

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Got a delivery from UCF yesterday. If UPS couldn't damage this aluminum skid plate then rocks don't stand a chance!

View attachment 43714

Another part that showed up for the Tummy Tuck were the 1" lift motor mounts from Brown Dog Off Road.

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Maybe the package I was most excited about were the Mopar Rock Crawler sliders I located. These were new in the box and will replace my factory Rubicon side rails while still working my the Savvy 1.25" body lift. (Something the Body Armor 4x4 rails wouldn't do)

View attachment 43716
Do those just attach to the body mounts or so they require you to drill into the tub?
 
Where did you source those brand new in box? The guy have the Mopar front bumper by any chance?

I sourced them from an individual that had them but wasn't going to use them for his build. Sorry, no front bumpers in my searches other than the beat to hell and bent one that is on eBay.
 
I was always curious about those. They have a set on eBay for the tj too. They are nice

Yeah I wanted sliders but didn't want to have to drill holes or change up mounting brackets right now if I didn't have to. I may go towards a larger/heavier slider or rail in the future but for now these will fit the bill. I just need to sell the brand new Body Armor 4x4 sliders I have in the garage now.
 
Last week I was able to get all of the new audio components installed. It definitely felt good to make a little progress on something and the finished product sounds fantastic. As mentioned in my above posts the components consisted of Polk DB 4x6 and 5.25" speakers in the dash and sound bar, a Pioneer MVH-1400NEX double din Apple Carplay receiver and a Kicker 6.75" sub in the factory center console along with a 200 watt Kicker amp.

I'm extremely happy with all of the components as the speakers don't clip at higher volumes and stay clear through the ranges, the receiver is fantastic and the Kicker sub and amp add the perfect amount of low end bass for this setup and my listening style. If I were to change anything right now it may be to buy a pair of the 5.25" speaker pods for the front dash area and swap out the 4x6 speakers for another set of 5.25" Polks. The sound bar definitely overpowers the front speakers to the point where I can't distinctly hear them in the sound field. This may change once I've had a chance to play with settings and sound field adjustments but if it doesn't the swap may happen at some point to satisfy my curiosity.

Here is a shot of the Kicker sub mounted in the factory inclosure. I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to remove interior plastic material to allow this sub to mount flush in to the enclosure.I also used a silicone caulk to close up a few small holes that were left from removing some of the factory heatsink parts. This is a dual 1ohm voice coil model that I'm running at 0.5ohm with the Kicker amp that is rated at 200watts at 0.5ohm. Again, it sounds great in the jeep.

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This is a shot of the Kicker amp. Its a relatively small, lightweight model that was created most likely for use in UTVs (Razrs, Commanders etc) and this allowed me to hide it up inside of the dash. I could have just set it behind the glovebox without it really moving but I ended up mounting it to a metal plate that is directly above the glovebox opening. The surface is flat and almost the perfect size to hold the amp. To keep it in place I used 3m heavy duty adhesive tape. I usually keep a roll of this stuff in my toolbox and have had great success in using it over the years to mount things that I didn't want to move unless I wanted them to.

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The Pioneer MVH-1400NEX was a great choice for me. I've become a big fan of Apple Carplay as its in my daily driver F-150 and this unit also included a small speaker for the hands free calling and Siri as well as full control for the subwoofer attached as well as SiriusXM. The screen is capacitive instead of resistive so the response time and feel is pretty much identical to my iPhone. My neighbor next door who has a 2002 TJ liked it so much that he ordered one the other day to replace his single din Pioneer receiver. The double din installation wasn't too bad once I researched a few other how-tos and videos. It did require for me to break out the Dremel again to remove a plastic support bracket for the factory radio that was between the AC controls and stock radio opening. Once it was out I was able to easily slide in and mount the new double din receiver. I did have to do a little plastic soldering to reuse the OEM top dash piece but it went without a hitch and I went ahead and installed a Daystar storage piece on top.

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Here is a shot of the microphone placement for handsfree calling and voice commands. I tested it out with the wife while the front of the soft top was open and the windows were down and she could hear me clearly.

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For now I decided to run the USB connection for Apple Carplay under the center console/shifter area and have it come out by the emergency brake. This allows me to connect a lightning cable to it and its right by the cupholders which comes in handy for holding your phone.

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When I installed the 5.25" Polk DB speakers in the overhead sound bar I ended up overtightening the factory speaker grills which caused the screw heads to break through their mounting holes. I opted to grab some extra screws and mount the included Polk speaker grills in their place. I rotated them a bit to allow me to drill new holes once they were centered over the opening. (The grill looks not centered in the picture but it's just from the angle I took it)

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Again I'm extremely happy with the component choices and am really enjoying the sound this LJ can now put out. The ability to have Apple Carplay and handsfree calling also brings a very functional modern touch to this platform without having to get too involved in modifications to accomplish it.
 
Again I'm extremely happy with the component choices and am really enjoying the sound this LJ can now put out. The ability to have Apple Carplay and handsfree calling also brings a very functional modern touch to this platform without having to get too involved in modifications to accomplish it.

Will it do car play over BT? I just put a Jensen in my LJ and was super disappointed that I have to plug my phone in each time for car play. It's not the end of the world but I had expected car play over BT. that sub amp install location is inspired, well done. I didn't even try to hook up the mic for phone use, my jeep spends most of its time with the doors and top off.
 
Great place to mount the head unit mic. I haven't tried mine out yet, but I suspect it's pretty much useless when the top and doors are off. Have you even attempted that?

BTW, still never heard back from the powder coating place. I sent them an email and left them a voicemail and never heard a thing in return and it's been weeks!

I may just stop by there this week. I suspect they are busy as hell. Last time I was there when I picked up my parts he said they were back logged at least a month and a half because of some mess-up at the shop.

I'm assuming you still need the powder coat color?
 
Will it do car play over BT? I just put a Jensen in my LJ and was super disappointed that I have to plug my phone in each time for car play. It's not the end of the world but I had expected car play over BT. that sub amp install location is inspired, well done. I didn't even try to hook up the mic for phone use, my jeep spends most of its time with the doors and top off.

Unfortunately Carplay is not wireless yet. Alpine is debuting a unit that offers wireless Apple Carplay and some other receivers may be able to provide it with a firmware upgrade but I'm not sure what is needed to support the protocol and what units already out will feature it through a software upgrade.

I find myself on quick trips in my truck not plugging in for Carplay but just relying on my bluetooth connection. If its a longer drive then myself or my wife will plug in and fire up spotify and Apple Maps if needed. I do know that Apple just announced support for Google Maps and Waze in Carplay for iOS 12. I expect that we will continue to see more app support added but don't know the roadmap on wireless connectivity.

Great place to mount the head unit mic. I haven't tried mine out yet, but I suspect it's pretty much useless when the top and doors are off. Have you even attempted that?

BTW, still never heard back from the powder coating place. I sent them an email and left them a voicemail and never heard a thing in return and it's been weeks!

I may just stop by there this week. I suspect they are busy as hell. Last time I was there when I picked up my parts he said they were back logged at least a month and a half because of some mess-up at the shop.

I'm assuming you still need the powder coat color?

I haven't tried the mic with the top and doors off yet as I honestly haven't been driving the LJ with it being worked on and the wife having the new JL. I am not sure how often I'll use the mic but figured since it was provided I'd go ahead and run the wire and install it so that if it was usable with everything removed I would have it. I'll make it a point to try it out this week and report back.

On the powder coat front I ended up just going ahead and settling on a color that was a close match. I wanted to get them back and on the Jeep so I pulled the trigger on "Black Satin Texture" from Prismatic Powders. The small sample of it I got had the same texture and the sheen was really close. I think it will be fine once they are installed (at least I'm telling my OCD that they will be) as the bumpers won't be right next to the sliders or the corner guards.
 
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Unfortunately Carplay is not wireless yet. Alpine is debuting a unit that offers wireless Apple Carplay and some other receivers may be able to provide it with a firmware upgrade but I'm not sure what is needed to support the protocol and what units already out will feature it through a software upgrade.

My wife's acura is car play over bluetooth, I just assumed they all supported and was surprised to find this is not the case. I also just use BT audio for short trips but miss the control you get through the head unit with carplay.
 
On the powder coat front I ended up just going ahead and settling on a color that was a close match. I wanted to get them back and on the Jeep so I pulled the trigger on "Black Satin Texture" from Prismatic Powders. The small sample of it I got had the same texture and the sheen was really close. I think it will be fine once they are installed (at least I'm telling my OCD that they will be) as the bumpers won't be right next to the sliders or the corner guards.

Post some photos once they're installed. Mine seem to be a perfect match. However, consider that my front bumper was NOS (New Old Stock), so the powder coat on it was basically brand new as it had just been sitting in a warehouse when I bought it. I suspect if it had been used over years and years in the sun, it may have faded a bit, and then the rear wouldn't match perfectly.
 
So I snuck a little bit of time this evening to get some small parts for the LJ painted. In the beginning I had no plans to have any of of the suspension parts any color but black but a few weeks ago when I thought I'd be installing my lift components I kind of rushed to get them done. I had my Savvy aluminum control arms, the Currie Anti-rock arms and a hawse fairlead powder coated but the color came out way more orange than red.

So after some time and money down the drain I decided to just repaint them myself. I opted for a high-heat ceramic enamel from Duplicolor (the color is literally just "Red") that is a pretty close match. Since these components won't be right next to the painted body I decided to go ahead with it rather than using a Flame Red color match paint. Plus since these will be under the body and subject to scratches etc I can easily touch them up with a new coat when needed.

Part of me still wonders if I should have just stuck with black for everything but worse case I get more practice using spray cans.........

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Following your build, thanks for blazing the trail for me!
Wondering what your thoughts were on final lift height / driveshaft angles.
Your UCF extra should lift your transfer case 2 1/2" over stock. Then you're adding 4" suspension lift.
How that's going to work out with the driveshaft angle?
Unless the UCF is designed as a lower profile than the stock skid so it doesn't raise the transfer case by the full amount of clearance gained?

I'm slowly gathering parts for my build. (also an LJR) I wanted to start at the transfer case.
I've got the UCF ultra high clearance skid (somewhere around 3.5" higher than stock) and their low pro mount sitting on the floor waiting.
MORE 1" MML
1 1/4" BL
Savvy cable shifter

Was also wanting the $avvy control arms (yet to order) But I think I'll go with 3" springs. (because the transfer case is way up after TT) Going to run 31's until they're wore (or I'm sick of looking at them!) and stop at 33's

Suspect we will both need DC rear driveshaft when all is done.