First Wrangler build and looking for suggestions

LJ FlexN

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First post but have been reading posts for a few months. It all started in September of last year when my wife refused to let me mod her jk rubi. She has always had a wrangler for her nice day, summer vehicle and had just went from a tj sahara to the jk rubi.
So, I found myself a 2004, solar yellow, LJ with an automatic to play with. PO already had a small lift with front and rear track bars and transfer case drop with it sitting on 33s. The only thing that I have done so far is 3.5" springs and shocks, front lower control arms and sway bar links, all from metalcloak. Waiting in the garage to be installed is a Savvy 1.25" aluminum BL, Savvy transfer case shift cable, Brown Dog 1" MML and I just recently picked up a HP Dana 30 to build up a little bit. I have the front upper and rear lower and upper control arms on the way from metalcloak as well.
My goal with in the next couple months is to get the transfer case tucked up as high as I can for clearance, truss and axles for the hp Dana 30 and axles for the Dana 44 rear, regear to 5.13s to accommodate 35s, mechanical locker in front with a selectable in the rear and to help stop everything a 17" black magic setup.
The only real concern I have right now is with drive shafts. Should I be expecting to have to replace either front or rear? I am hoping going to the hp Dana 30 would help offset the tuck and that being an LJ will avoid severe angles in the rear.
I'm wanting to be able to comfortably hit the rocks but don't even know how serious I can get with that considering my location in the Midwest, St. Louis.
Suggestions for axle and gear brands? Do I go 30 spline inner and 27 outer with the hp Dana 30 or do I go 30 for both? I have seen a front mechanical locker talked about on here that you don't notice in 2wd but can't find it now.
 
First post but have been reading posts for a few months. It all started in September of last year when my wife refused to let me mod her jk rubi. She has always had a wrangler for her nice day, summer vehicle and had just went from a tj sahara to the jk rubi.
So, I found myself a 2004, solar yellow, LJ with an automatic to play with. PO already had a small lift with front and rear track bars and transfer case drop with it sitting on 33s. The only thing that I have done so far is 3.5" springs and shocks, front lower control arms and sway bar links, all from metalcloak. Waiting in the garage to be installed is a Savvy 1.25" aluminum BL, Savvy transfer case shift cable, Brown Dog 1" MML and I just recently picked up a HP Dana 30 to build up a little bit. I have the front upper and rear lower and upper control arms on the way from metalcloak as well.
My goal with in the next couple months is to get the transfer case tucked up as high as I can for clearance, truss and axles for the hp Dana 30 and axles for the Dana 44 rear, regear to 5.13s to accommodate 35s, mechanical locker in front with a selectable in the rear and to help stop everything a 17" black magic setup.
The only real concern I have right now is with drive shafts. Should I be expecting to have to replace either front or rear? I am hoping going to the hp Dana 30 would help offset the tuck and that being an LJ will avoid severe angles in the rear.
I'm wanting to be able to comfortably hit the rocks but don't even know how serious I can get with that considering my location in the Midwest, St. Louis.
Suggestions for axle and gear brands? Do I go 30 spline inner and 27 outer with the hp Dana 30 or do I go 30 for both? I have seen a front mechanical locker talked about on here that you don't notice in 2wd but can't find it now.

Well I’m going to bump it to help get you some activity but I’m not going to profess to be the authority-

So many guys have been through this scenario in some variation on here that you’re going to get some good feedback-And you are on the correct forum for these questions.

Most of us own tools and are not afraid to use them. I didn’t say we should use them...We’re just not afraid.

@Jerry Bransford will he helpful, @JMT and sooo many others
 
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I would consider picking up a Dana 44 front axle instead the the HP30. Only reason is 5.38s is a better ratio for the 42rle and 35” tire combo.

I’d stick with 30 spline inners and 27 spline outers so you have better access to unit bearings.

You should seriously consider installing an SYE and DC driveshaft given the 3.5” lift and tuck. This is when things start to get out of hand and expensive.
 
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Is there a hard core reason for Metal Cloak? Not sure I buy off on their joints, the Johnny Joint looks to be a better bet. Just what I’ve seen and went with, but certainly they get the job done, just read a lot of maintenance issue. (Que the post that says “ram ML for the past 59 years and never once an issue of any kind whatsoever)

I don’t have an Lj, so don’t know if an SYE is needed, but it certainly wouldn’t hurt the situation . I used the JB Conversions Super Short.

The Savvy Under Armor and Engine skid if you’re really wanting hard core protection.
 
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I would consider picking up a Dana 44 front axle instead the the HP30. Only reason is 5.38s is a better ratio for the 42rle and 35” tire combo.

I’d stick with 30 spline inners and 27 spline outers so you have better access to unit bearings.

You should seriously consider installing an SYE and DC driveshaft given the 3.5” lift and tuck. This is when things start to get out of hand and expensive.

isn't that about the only difference between Dana 30 and Dana 44? Dana 44 ring and pinion are a little bit bigger allowing for the 5.38s? other than the small fortune they want for a Dana 44. I picked up the hp Dana 30 for $150.

Is there a hard core reason for Metal Cloak? Not sure I buy off on their joints, the Johnny Joint looks to be a better bet. Just what I’ve seen and went with, but certainly they get the job done, just read a lot of maintenance issue. (Que the post that says “ram ML for the past 59 years and never once an issue of any kind whatsoever)

I don’t have an Lj, so don’t know if an SYE is needed, but it certainly wouldn’t hurt the situation . I used the JB Conversions Super Short.

The Savvy Under Armor and Engine skid if you’re really wanting hard core protection.

No particular reason for MC. With all the options I figured any of them were better than stock.
 
Ive been in the antique truck circuit for 20 years. I've restored 4 trucks (all 6 wheeled) in my time. Newbies always want to know "how to" or "what to" do to upgrade the ride for whatever reason. I've done that myself with the first two trucks. Ive done that recently with my newly acquired 04 X. I want to do this and I want to do that to my ride but I don't have the money for it so I'll wait until funds are available then do my upgrades. That's what happened in the truck dept. If you really want to to do this and do that to your ride then drive it one year before you do anything and get to know the ride. I have found and so have others that after driving the ride for a year you find out have the things you wanted to do didnt work out and ended up being a waste of time and the job didn't end up as planned after a ton of money was spent to fulfill your dreams. For me after a year of driving vintage rides I found out I didn't have to do anything to make it better because it's good enough the way it is.
 
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Ive been in the antique truck circuit for 20 years. I've restored 4 trucks (all 6 wheeled) in my time. Newbies always want to know "how to" or "what to" do to upgrade the ride for whatever reason. I've done that myself with the first two trucks. Ive done that recently with my newly acquired 04 X. I want to do this and I want to do that to my ride but I don't have the money for it so I'll wait until funds are available then do my upgrades. That's what happened in the truck dept. If you really want to to do this and do that to your ride then drive it one year before you do anything and get to know the ride. I have found and so have others that after driving the ride for a year you find out have the things you wanted to do didnt work out and ended up being a waste of time and the job didn't end up as planned after a ton of money was spent to fulfill your dreams. For me after a year of driving vintage rides I found out I didn't have to do anything to make it better because it's good enough the way it is.

Drive it first is good advice. I was fortunate to have a CJ5 with a 4” lift and 35’s for all of my college years, so I knew what I wanted tire and lift wise without a doubt ha.
 
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First post but have been reading posts for a few months. It all started in September of last year when my wife refused to let me mod her jk rubi. She has always had a wrangler for her nice day, summer vehicle and had just went from a tj sahara to the jk rubi.
So, I found myself a 2004, solar yellow, LJ with an automatic to play with. PO already had a small lift with front and rear track bars and transfer case drop with it sitting on 33s. The only thing that I have done so far is 3.5" springs and shocks, front lower control arms and sway bar links, all from metalcloak. Waiting in the garage to be installed is a Savvy 1.25" aluminum BL, Savvy transfer case shift cable, Brown Dog 1" MML and I just recently picked up a HP Dana 30 to build up a little bit. I have the front upper and rear lower and upper control arms on the way from metalcloak as well.
My goal with in the next couple months is to get the transfer case tucked up as high as I can for clearance, truss and axles for the hp Dana 30 and axles for the Dana 44 rear, regear to 5.13s to accommodate 35s, mechanical locker in front with a selectable in the rear and to help stop everything a 17" black magic setup.
The only real concern I have right now is with drive shafts. Should I be expecting to have to replace either front or rear? I am hoping going to the hp Dana 30 would help offset the tuck and that being an LJ will avoid severe angles in the rear.
I'm wanting to be able to comfortably hit the rocks but don't even know how serious I can get with that considering my location in the Midwest, St. Louis.
Suggestions for axle and gear brands? Do I go 30 spline inner and 27 outer with the hp Dana 30 or do I go 30 for both? I have seen a front mechanical locker talked about on here that you don't notice in 2wd but can't find it now.

Everything you mentioned doing is fine, except the need to truss the front HP Dana 30.

The front locker you’re looking for is the PowerTrax No-Slip.

27 outer, 30 inner should be fine for 35’s. That’s what I run on a LP Dana 30. Most recommend Revolution

You won’t know about driveshafts till you get everything where it needs to be.
 
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A 17" BBK will be overkill for 35's, it's for 37's and 40's. I would go with a 16".
16" wheels are a bastard size, there are not nearly as many tires and wheels to choose from in that size and generally speaking they are more expensive due to that size being rarer. For 35's I'd either go 15" as I run or 17". A 16" size would be the very last size wheel I would choose.
 
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@LJ FlexN the front locker you can't detect while in 2wd is most likely the No-Slip lunchbox locker made by Powertrax. I had one in my previous TJ and you actually couldn't tell it was there in 2wd. Other lunchbox lockers like the Aussie or Lockrite will click/ratchet while making slow speed turns like in a parking lot. For the rear selectable it'd be hard to beat the Eaton E-Locker which only needs a switched source of 12 volts to control.

I'd go 30 spline with 27 spline outer chromoly shafts for the front axle. The outers are firmly held by the splined unit bearing hub which serves to strengthen that end of the axle.

For your gears it'd be hard to beat Revolution Gear & Axle's gears, they come from Circle K which is currently the best manufacturer of aftermarket R&P gears. And 5.13 is the best choice considering you're staying with a Dana 30 front axle. Don't let anyone talk you into a higher ratio like 4.88, you need the extra engine rpms of the 5.13 for your 35's and your 42RLE transmission. Personally I'm running 5.38 for 35's and my 42RLE and often wish I had been able to go for one lower ratio than 5.38 to help on the highway but my Rubicon lockers prevented that.

I'd also get rid of that tcase drop and install a SYE kit into the transfer case and replace the rear driveshaft with a DC driveshaft.

Good luck, and good decision on the BBK from Black Magic Brakes! :)
 
16" wheels are a bastard size, there are not nearly as many tires and wheels to choose from in that size and generally speaking they are more expensive due to that size being rarer. For 35's I'd either go 15" as I run or 17". A 16" size would be the very last size wheel I would choose.

I completely agree, but even Blain has said the stopping power of his 16" kit is so good he wouldn't sell the 15" kit if he didn't have to.

FWIW, I was able to fit the 16" kit into my 15" wheels, though there isn't even enough room to use sticky weights to balance them.
 
I completely agree, but even Blain has said the stopping power of his 16" kit is so good he wouldn't sell the 15" kit if he didn't have to.

FWIW, I was able to fit the 16" kit into my 15" wheels, though there isn't even enough room to use sticky weights to balance them.
I'm running his BBK kit with my 15" wheels. I'd go strictly 15" or 17". 16" size wheels just offer too limited of a selection of tires and wheels and odds are very good you'd end up with a higher Load Rating, D or E, with the 16" since the more appropriate Load Rating C tires are far less common/rare in 16" sizes. And there's nothing wrong with running 35's on 17's.
 
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I'm running his BBK kit with my 15" wheels. I'd go strictly 15" or 17". 16" size wheels just offer too limited of a selection of tires and wheels and odds are very good you'd end up with a higher Load Rating, D or E, with the 16" since the more appropriate Load Rating C tires are far less common/rare in 16" sizes. And there's nothing wrong with running 35's on 17's.

I agree, perhaps I wasn't clear. I'm running the 16" kit on 35x12.5x15 KM3's load range C. No 16" wheels for me for the very reasons you stated.
 
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Don’t you want to be able to do this?

Those look like the Golden Stairs just past Golden Crack. No big deal on 31s wheeling my stiffened '87 Cherokee with factory Dana 44 rear, lockered 5sp which I dearly miss. The Rubicon replacing that marvel is not as capable. I know. I've wheeled both and was only able to sleep in one. My son owns both a 2005 LJR on 35s, tummy tucked and a JKUR also on 35s. Both were factory ordered years ago. He successfully wheeled Pritchett on 33s in his LJR. Now it remains in the garage as he much prefers the 4 door. An XJ on 32s had to strap me in my TJR on the big step returning from Gray Mesa, while a JTR and other 4 door RUBIs had no trouble as neither did my old, newly lockered Cherokee 20 years before. No substitute for the longer wheel bases, though I do enjoy steering the TJR :LOL:

A note to the OP: I broke my Dana 30 on 31X9.5s on the much easier Elephant Hill wheeling a much lighter vehicle. Got out in 3 wheel drive, wired up the axle at camp and continued to Moab, finishing my vacation while avoiding 4WD; did more hiking. 35s and a beefed up Dana 30? I'd like to know how that works out. D44s break too, but not as often. Interestingly, before Covid, when I was looking at replacing the stolen XJ, I had a choice among 4 Rubicons. All New Mexico, no rust. 2 LJRs, both over built and 2 TJRs. All were affordable, well under 18k. Despite knowing the capability of my son's properly built, LJR, I wanted a 2 door. The 2 door I did not buy was on 35s, a year newer and 30k fewer miles. The one I chose on 33s had a 16 foot turning radius while the year newer Rubicon on 35s as built, required 4 lanes to make a U turn. Also, it was hard to tell which needle was moving faster, its speedometer or the fuel gauge. Mine gets up to 17 on tarmac @ 65 and 15 in town. The Cherokee got 21 @ 75 despite the lift and 285k on the clock. I'm waiting for a 2 door JL Rubicon pickup...waiting...waiting. I've experienced that the longer you can keep a Jeep once it's built the way you want, the more it's worth to you. The 4.0L is a war horse. They no longer make 'em that way.