Flashing front locker light

[Abendage]

I don’t see anything glaringly obvious. When my rear one failed, the inner locker ring cracked, so the bladder, outer ring and dash lights looked like they functioned normal, but the locker wouldn’t lock. Other than bladder failures they almost always break an internal piece so that may be what happened here, or it may be fine and just be a sensor issue. But since it wouldn’t release in Sand Hollow I’m guessing something isn’t just right internally.

I wouldn’t be afraid to daily it, as is, but I probably wouldn’t lock the front until I could afford not to drive it every day incase it failed in the locked position.

 

[inkedrose]

I don’t see anything glaringly obvious. When my rear one failed, the inner locker ring cracked, so the bladder, outer ring and dash lights looked like they functioned normal, but the locker wouldn’t lock. Other than bladder failures they almost always break an internal piece so that may be what happened here, or it may be fine and just be a sensor issue. But since it wouldn’t release in Sand Hollow I’m guessing something isn’t just right internally.

I wouldn’t be afraid to daily it, as is, but I probably wouldn’t lock the front until I could afford not to drive it every day incase it failed in the locked position.

Bummer no wheeling but as long as I can drive for now

 

[Abendage]

Bummer no wheeling but as long as I can drive for now

You can try it, the chances of it failing locked are pretty slim (there’s a spring in there that tries to keep it unlocked all the time that the bladder overcomes), but if it does, it would sure suck to drive on the street!

 

[inkedrose]

Good news is I just went for a spin and currently no flashing lights. The idiot in me really wants to go find a dirt lot and test the locker but I'll wait until my truck is fixed.
Is there an easy way to test sensor vrs locker to see what's failing? Guessing a sensor is much cheaper than a locker

 

[inkedrose]

scratch that last question did some googling and seems like a pain in ass to get to sensor. If everthing is out to get to it might as well swap it

 

[Abendage]

Good news is I just went for a spin and currently no flashing lights. The idiot in me really wants to go find a dirt lot and test the locker but I'll wait until my truck is fixed.
Is there an easy way to test sensor vrs locker to see what's failing? Guessing a sensor is much cheaper than a locker

Judging by the symptoms of a stuck locker and the sensor reflecting that I’d venture to guess the sensor is fine. Unfortunately the locker has a much higher failure rate than the sensor.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

I think it's snagging the switch behind the carrier. But not sure why and not sure why that circuit is engaging in 2WD

 

[macleanflood]

I wonder if you filled it with ATF for the night and spun it around on a lift of you couldn't clean things up.

-Mac

 

[inkedrose]

View attachment 691550
I think it's snagging the switch behind the carrier. But not sure why and not sure why that circuit is engaging in 2WD

You think that’s what the scaring is from?

 

[inkedrose]

I wonder if you filled it with ATF for the night and spun it around on a lift of you couldn't clean things up.

-Mac

I could do it on jack stands. Working next few days, seems to be driving same as it always has for now. Get back into later this week. Hope for the best until then. Looks like I need to bite the bullet and place an order

 

[rasband]

Light that fuse in the diff and get tons and fourdeeez!

 

[Rickyd]

Good news is I just went for a spin and currently no flashing lights. The idiot in me really wants to go find a dirt lot and test the locker but I'll wait until my truck is fixed.
Is there an easy way to test sensor vrs locker to see what's failing? Guessing a sensor is much cheaper than a locker

I'm not versed on the factory controls since i use arb compressor and switches for my rubi axles but it would be easy to unplug the sensor and use a multimeter to check it and its harness when it is malfunctioning. Idk what your rubi would do if the sensor was unplugged though

 

[GoldenGorilla]

I'm not versed on the factory controls since i use arb compressor and switches for my rubi axles but it would be easy to unplug the sensor and use a multimeter to check it and its harness when it is malfunctioning. Idk what your rubi would do if the sensor was unplugged though

The locked switch is a simple switch in these. Usually that switch notifies the dash to light solid when the locker is requested. There are some other parts routing to the pumps and traditionally they blink when it's calling for the pump, but getting no air.

I had the opposite issue. Not sure how, but my harness to the locker engaged switch got cut and even though the lockers were engaging, the light wouldn't go solid.

It'll also blink when you've asked the locker to turn off but it hasn't disengaged.

But I don't know why it would randomly go into blink mode in 2WD.

The last scenario is why I think something is going on with the locker mechanism and the switch. You could pull the cover and slip a boroscope back there to inspect it without pulling shafts and the carrier.

 

[JKP]

Good news is I just went for a spin and currently no flashing lights. The idiot in me really wants to go find a dirt lot and test the locker but I'll wait until my truck is fixed.
Is there an easy way to test sensor vrs locker to see what's failing? Guessing a sensor is much cheaper than a locker

It's just a switch. Open or closed. Can be tested at the connector. Should be an open circuit in 2WD.

You could have a chaffed wire, a bad switch, or the diff is doing weird things to the switch.

Switch is cheaper, but you have to pull the diff to put a new one in.

 

[Rickyd]

I'm not versed on the factory controls since i use arb compressor and switches for my rubi axles but it would be easy to unplug the sensor and use a multimeter to check it and its harness when it is malfunctioning. Idk what your rubi would do if the sensor was unplugged though

To expand on the "is the locker engaging or is it some other fault" question. I would jack up one tire,spin it and see if it is indeed hanging up while checking the wiring

 

[Rickyd]

The locked switch is a simple switch in these. Usually that switch notifies the dash to light solid when the locker is requested. There are some other parts routing to the pumps and traditionally they blink when it's calling for the pump, but getting no air.

I had the opposite issue. Not sure how, but my harness to the locker engaged switch got cut and even though the lockers were engaging, the light wouldn't go solid.

It'll also blink when you've asked the locker to turn off but it hasn't disengaged.

But I don't know why it would randomly go into blink mode in 2WD.

The last scenario is why I think something is going on with the locker mechanism and the switch. You could pull the cover and slip a boroscope back there to inspect it without pulling shafts and the carrier.

Should be able to manipulate the shift collar from the front side. Hell a hose to your mouth can generate the 5 psi it takes to watch it function.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

Should be able to manipulate the shift collar from the front side. Hell a hose to your mouth can generate the 5 psi it takes to watch it function.

Indeed. The Rubicon shift collar is very low pressure. And you can see the interaction with the switch behind the carrier. Switch should be on the pinion side of the carrier after setup.

 

[inkedrose]

Quick update. Drained it, wiped everything down and refilled. Took it out and tested it, everything is working as it should. Even played on a retaining wall to doule check. Been daily driving with no lights sooo??? Going to keep running it until I can't