Front diff bearing oddness, run it or replace it?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
Did you remove the pinion? I would be checking those bearings as well
I'm scared to. Something about re-assembly and getting things tight enough but not too tight.
The axle tubes have been checked - and even flushed out for good measure. But talk to me about re-assembling the pinion - something about crush washers and tightening it correctly.
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I use a caliper and measure how deep the nut is on the pinion. Then I make a careful mark with a paint pen. Use that info to put it just a hair tighter than you removed it.
You can reuse the crush sleeve. A punch will knock out the race. You can put a fresh pinion seal on while you're at it
-Mac
You can reuse the crush sleeve. A punch will knock out the race. You can put a fresh pinion seal on while you're at it
-Mac
Well, Sigh! I guess I'll be taking THAT apart too. Thanx - I think
- to both you and @Daryl for taking care of this fool.
I'm no expert on Failure Analysis, but if you're curious about what caused that damage, it kind of looks like Rolling Stress Fatigue. If those are original bearings, that could just be fatigue from cyclic load.
I could be wrong, but that could be your root cause, not resultant damage, which would be why you haven't found any other failures.
Good call on pulling the pinion as well. The FSM has a rolling torque procedure for re-installation of the pinion with a used crush sleave too if you want specified instructions. It's under pinion seal R+I if I remember correctly.
I could be wrong, but that could be your root cause, not resultant damage, which would be why you haven't found any other failures.
Good call on pulling the pinion as well. The FSM has a rolling torque procedure for re-installation of the pinion with a used crush sleave too if you want specified instructions. It's under pinion seal R+I if I remember correctly.
Also, when you do your rear axle and you get to setting all your shims correctly, it is a life-saver to buy 2 sets of bearings. Make a set of dummy bearings by using a flapper wheel to oversize one set. That way you don't have to press them off and on every single time you have to change your shims.
I shouldn't have to reset the shims if re-using the original crush washer per @macleanflood - yes? No?
I see all sorts of ways to install the new races, with all sorts of different tools. What's the recommendation? I have a bearing puller coming already. Also making a "brace" to bolt onto the pinion to hold it while working with the nut.
Correct. You ought not change shims/pattern since you're running the same gears. I meant for those recommendations when you tackle your rear axle project or change gears and have to do an initial set up.
A brass punch, a bearing driver kit, a big socket, throwing it in the freezer... whatever way you have tooling for is the best way to get the races in. I tend to use a big socket to drive races because I have lots, but a cold punch or an extension does well too. Just take it slow. It should drive in fairly smooth. If it doesn't, take a step back and make sure it's going in straight.
On the bracket to hold the pinion... post pics for sure. I'd love to see what you come up with. I usually just go the crude way and use a pipe wrench.
A brass punch, a bearing driver kit, a big socket, throwing it in the freezer... whatever way you have tooling for is the best way to get the races in. I tend to use a big socket to drive races because I have lots, but a cold punch or an extension does well too. Just take it slow. It should drive in fairly smooth. If it doesn't, take a step back and make sure it's going in straight.
On the bracket to hold the pinion... post pics for sure. I'd love to see what you come up with. I usually just go the crude way and use a pipe wrench.
Roger that - don't confuse the idiot here! As for holding the pinion, pipe wrench was my first thought too - then I saw a guy on YooToob who had made a tool vaguely similar to one I made to hold the water pump pulley when taking off the fan. That got me to thinking, and I have a plan... (!!!)
Ok - more stupid questions time...
Trying to find these bearings - confused as hell. I was thinking that both inner and outer bearings/races are identical. I'm either wrong, or I'm confused as I keep seeing references to a given bearing as being either inner or outer, but not both. I'm also finding all kinds of complete kits which I don't need - I just need the pinion bearing pair, and a new seal without a bunch of other stuff with it. I'm also finding all kind of hecho en China crap - does anyone have some part numbers?
I see a DANA 706030X and 706031X as a possible pair on Amazon. Also see reference to an oil slinger that may or may not be in my particular example.
Trying to find these bearings - confused as hell. I was thinking that both inner and outer bearings/races are identical. I'm either wrong, or I'm confused as I keep seeing references to a given bearing as being either inner or outer, but not both. I'm also finding all kinds of complete kits which I don't need - I just need the pinion bearing pair, and a new seal without a bunch of other stuff with it. I'm also finding all kind of hecho en China crap - does anyone have some part numbers?
I see a DANA 706030X and 706031X as a possible pair on Amazon. Also see reference to an oil slinger that may or may not be in my particular example.
I use this site to look up part numbers and then go shopping for price.
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c-...arts-dana-30-front.html?facet-categories=1742
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c-...arts-dana-30-front.html?facet-categories=1742
Inner and outer bearings are different sizes so the corresponding races are also different sizes. Inner bearing is bigger and outer bearing is smaller.
The part numbers you posted look like a Dana 44 rear set. I am seeing a Dana 706015x (inner) and a Dana 707162x (outer) for a Dana 30 front.
I personally will use timken or SKF for bearings, but Dana would be fine
The part numbers info is from Rock Auto. I usually source parts/part numbers from them.
I don't know about an oil slinger. I havent had a Dana 30 apart in a while. You should be able to see it behind the pinion even if you still have it in the case.
The part numbers you posted look like a Dana 44 rear set. I am seeing a Dana 706015x (inner) and a Dana 707162x (outer) for a Dana 30 front.
I personally will use timken or SKF for bearings, but Dana would be fine
The part numbers info is from Rock Auto. I usually source parts/part numbers from them.
I don't know about an oil slinger. I havent had a Dana 30 apart in a while. You should be able to see it behind the pinion even if you still have it in the case.
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I ran the same shim pack on my 2003 when I reassembled everything. I took a dial indicator reading before and after and the reading was identical.
Thanx guys - I can always rely on this forum and its inhabitants to (mostly) keep me out of trouble, and get me out of it when I've done something stupid. This is an adventure for sure. I have the tools on order, the carrier bearings on order, a certain tool from Home Depot that I'm going to modify, a bearing and seal press because it was cheap; so I think all I need are the bearings and the seal itself.
I do appreciate the help - I've done "light car work" all my life, but this is "heavier" by far, so its a new world. More stupid questions in the offing I'm sure...
I do appreciate the help - I've done "light car work" all my life, but this is "heavier" by far, so its a new world. More stupid questions in the offing I'm sure...
Now I'm confused over the damn seal. All accounts say that Spicer 50660 is the one for a Dana 30 - BUT - some sources also claim that a 44895 is mo' bettah for a 2001-up version (mine's 2006). Nothing's ever straightforward...
Summit rocks ! Every time I've ordered from them , it's been a positive experience. This wouldn't be the first differential I've seen with one or two rough bearings and the others looked great . I lean toward , if you can get good bearings , replace them all . You have done most or the work already . Finish strong my friend .
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