Front diff bearing oddness, run it or replace it?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
@hosejockey61 @macleanflood @anyone-who-knows...
Looks like I'm OK - The rotational torque spec - according to the manual - is 15 to 30 in-lbs for new bearings. I'm at 24. I was confused as some sources state 12-15, but as this is the FSM, unless someone knows of an error, I'm golden. It just felt awfully stiff to me, but numbers don't lie.
Looks like I'm OK - The rotational torque spec - according to the manual - is 15 to 30 in-lbs for new bearings. I'm at 24. I was confused as some sources state 12-15, but as this is the FSM, unless someone knows of an error, I'm golden. It just felt awfully stiff to me, but numbers don't lie.
From someone who doesn't own a way to measure rotational torque , I believe this is just fine . As the relationship between theory and reality collide , one must ask the question , ( Do you install spark plugs only using a cal lab inspected and certified torque wrench following the MFG. factory spec . ) ?
In my opinion , given the range you stated and value you measured , you are just fine to finish this axle rebuild !
Yea, I'm just wanting confirmation that I'm using the right numbers - I can get confused pretty easily.
While the FSM states 20-40, you risk burning up your bearings as that number gets higher. A gear shop owner is the one who tuned me up on that. Great guy and an absolute wealth of knowledge. With that being said, you'll be fine at 24, been there done that. If it was much higher I would tell you to reconsider.
Whew! The way I was reading it was the Dana 30 was 15-30, Dana 44 was 20-40. Either way, its a relief and I appreciate the confirmation! So now I can throw the diff back in, get the axle shafts put in, then run my first pattern.
If you are just doing new bearings with all shims reused in the correct place and used gears i wouldn't bother trying to do a pattern. Not much you can do and it might scare you to see how they have worn in over time
Ricky hit it...no pattern needed since it was just bearings. But we'd be curious to see....
Yea, I'm curious to see too. I've got the glop - might as well do it, I can learn something.
Can someone point me at a good, clear procedure?
Thin the paint down with gear oil...hold the ring gear tight with a rag or glove to provid resistance. Paint 3-4 teeth and roll the pinion to get a pattern.
-Mac
-Mac
KennethS
TJ Expert
I have read that the coast side is important with used gears.
So does this mean I should do it twice - once in each direction?
KennethS
TJ Expert
And so I did, and learned lots. Got the diff reinstalled, then had to scratch around to get things together so I can turn the pinion with a drill. Should be able to run the pattern later this afternoon once the damn SUN goes away...
I just needed a hex to square socket drive adapter. I thought I had one, but now I probably have two, I just don't know where one of them is! Wonderful video!
Ok, here's the pattern, such as it is. My education thus far via @hosejockey61 's video says this it ain't right, but maybe it doesn't matter for gears with 150K on them. I may have mixed the glop wrong too...
PS. Why can't I just use yellow mustard?
@macleanflood
PS. Why can't I just use yellow mustard?
@macleanflood
From what I can see I didn't have a problem with the pattern at all. The drive side is what we need to focus on and it wiped all the paint off the tooth. I thinks it's good to go 
.
You might have been able to get away with yellow mustard for this one time. The problem is when your gears heat up it'll smell like hotdogs all the time
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.You might have been able to get away with yellow mustard for this one time. The problem is when your gears heat up it'll smell like hotdogs all the time
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