In the front side of the spring correct? That’s why I’m saying the upper spring needs to be shifted towards the rear some. You have it on the very edge of the isolator
Front Driver Side Coil Bowing
- Thread starter AaronPaul
- Start date
In the front side of the spring correct? That’s why I’m saying the upper spring needs to be shifted towards the rear some. You have it on the very edge of the isolator
OP
Alignment specs can give you a pretty good idea as to what is going on.
OP
OP
Yeah I have a 4.5 inch spring, but you can see how much further back my coil sits in the isolator versus yours being at the very front edge if it.
OP
By any chance did you take detailed pics before you started this project? Just for piece of mind you can see how the original springs sat on that spacer.
OP
OP
OP
i think we're wasting our time here trying to decode if a spring is rotated into an isolator correctly or not. to cause a bow that severe?
were looking at an axle misalignment (less likely with non adjustable arms, but more with frame correction)
potentially a replaced spring bucket or something?
poorly relocated track bar hole with a lateral bow in spring?
I don't think a spring not being rotated properly would cause a bow like that.
maybe try measuring from center skid plate bolt to axle end control arm bolts on both sides and see what you come up with?
were looking at an axle misalignment (less likely with non adjustable arms, but more with frame correction)
potentially a replaced spring bucket or something?
poorly relocated track bar hole with a lateral bow in spring?
I don't think a spring not being rotated properly would cause a bow like that.
maybe try measuring from center skid plate bolt to axle end control arm bolts on both sides and see what you come up with?
If moving the spacer doesn’t help.
Do you have an angle measure to measure Caster on the top of the knuckle ball joint?
just curious to others that do more if this. Would It be helpful to measure the caster (angle of end axle) at the knuckle? If it’s bowing that much it has to be a significant difference.
You went to Ranger school, so you’re a glutton for punishment. Put the stock springs back would be an extreme, set it down, and measure angles.
I also thought read about the front Drive Shaft getting rolled when working on front suspension. I’d consider pulling the front Drive Shaft, loosening CA bolts and jumping up and down on the bumper. Measure the angles again and see if it corrects.
Long shots, but you’ve got a frustrating deal.
That kind of frame work most likely is the culprit, and lift amplifies it possibly.
Your right, not sure if that is THE issue but definitely needs addressing. they are 4" springs and the axle end track bar hole hasn't been relocated for the stock track bar. you can see the shift even over on the passenger spring.
Guys- There’s the story right there-
Just do this-
Disconnect one end of the track bar in bounce the frame up and down
Watch what happens
Now get ready not to be able to reconnect the track bar if it’s not adjustable- Rough country actually sells one that’s pretty decent now for 129 and both ends are completely rebuildable
Only issue is the OP said they were 2.5” springs.
I still think you’re on to a major suspect. Even at 2.5, I’m curious if these are still stock arms, the bushings are old, and a Track Bar that is fixed and not for this height, the axle gets squirrely.
This is the bait and switch, “plug and play 2.5” yea right, it all has to work together.