Front pinion angle questions

One full rotation netted about 0.3*. Results may vary. I found it easier to pull the upper axle side and the lower frame side. I have all single adjustables in the front. Do one at a time, wheels on the ground, park brake on, in gear. Some say to even put it in 4lo to further keep the axle from shifting when you pull an arm loose.
 
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One full rotation netted about 0.3*. Results may vary. I found it easier to pull the upper axle side and the lower frame side. I have all single adjustables in the front. Do one at a time, wheels on the ground, park brake on, in gear. Some say to even put it in 4lo to further keep the axle from shifting when you pull an arm loose.
I moved the lowers one turn. I will do the uppers next. How much did you rotate the arm on each pull? This axle is really rotated up.
 
I moved the lowers one turn. I will do the uppers next. How much did you rotate the arm on each pull? This axle is really rotated up.
This is my rear axle. The frame side upper might be easier becase of the items connected. That is if the flag nut holds up.
 
This is my rear axle. The frame side upper might be easier becase of the items connected. That is if the flag nut holds up.
Also Bob on the lowers I am moving off center in the wheelwells. Might I reach a point to just change uppers?
 
Yeah but you only use the the one time you make an adjustment. If you are continually swapping suspension, then it would be cost effective, but not something that is beyond convienience for the average 1 time user.
The difference in my case was $40 and the doubles were aluminum. For the amount of times I had to adjust to get my front correct I would say it was well worth the extra cost.
 
The lowers are mostly to adjust wheel base. Set them so axle is centered at full bump and adjust pinion with the uppers.
Did you ever come up with a good spot to measure that rear drive shaft? On my rubicon there are two raised spots just ahead of the slip joint. Between them or accross them is what I have been doing. I can’t see a good spot up on that double cardon that looks flat.
 
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One full rotation netted about 0.3*. Results may vary. I found it easier to pull the upper axle side and the lower frame side. I have all single adjustables in the front. Do one at a time, wheels on the ground, park brake on, in gear. Some say to even put it in 4lo to further keep the axle from shifting when you pull an arm loose.
 
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Bob that drivers upper control arm on the front seems a bear to line up. I was able to go two turns on the rear before going to the other side. I can’t use a line up punch on that driver’s side. Any hints for shifting that axle before I go to 1 or 1/2 turn increments.
 
Verify numbers if you can. I’m thinking they will work. Currie site show them being same rate just a tad longer. That should even things out since I’m a tad light in the front and heavier in the rear I think. Will do some research as well.
 
Bob that drivers upper control arm on the front seems a bear to line up. I was able to go two turns on the rear before going to the other side. I can’t use a line up punch on that driver’s side. Any hints for shifting that axle before I go to 1 or 1/2 turn increments.

Put a floor jack on the diff just behind the yoke and jack it up a little to see if that will get it to line up.
 
The length of the arm is not important. When I set my arms I only had 2 arms installed. The springs were removed, and the axle was at full stuff. Once I had that I then tweaked my pinion, rechecked full stuff. When all that was good, I locked it down, and installed the other arms adjusting them until I could get a bolt to go into the holes.
 
My pinon angleis 9.1 my d/s is 6.2. Are you saying that jacking the axle up will tend to rotate that pinon down?
 
Typically when you are setting up your lift height and have adjustable arms, you would pull the springs/shocks, lift the axle to full bump and adjust the lowers until your axle is centered within the wheel well and your upper cups are close to centered to the lower spring pad.
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This is also how you would adjust your bump stops for a bigger tire size.

In your case Ron, you are kind of reverse engineering your lift by changing the lift height from the previous lift. What we don't know is what length your front arms were adjusted to. Now that you have a shorter lift, your arm lengths may need to be changed to get your setup right. As yours sits right now, based off your angle measurements, the pinion is sitting pretty high compared to the DS angle. In this situation, you could adjust the uppers to lower your pinion angle so it is closer to the ds angle.

With the jeep at ride height, you could support the axle with a floor jack, them remove one upper arm. With the floor jack positioned so you can lift/lower the pinion, use the floor jack to relieve the tension on the remaining upper arm. I don't remember which side of the diff relieves tension, so you'll have to play with that with the floor jack. Once the tension is relieved, it should unbolt and be removed easily. With both uppers off, use the floor jack to adjust the pinion angle. Once adjusted, install the uppers. Try to get your pinion angle in line with the ds angle at ride height. For safety, put some jack stands on the axle tubes loosely supported, and chock the tires.
 
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