Front upper control arm axle bushing installation

Fun, aren't they! When I did my XJ, I drilled through the rubber several times then was able to carve/pound out the rubber. Then I used a hammer and chisel to form a V into the metal casing and it finally pounded out. You aren't saving it so you need to keep it intact. Just have at it.
 
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Haha, this is why I buy replacement control arms with the bushings already pressed in. It’s well worth it to avoid the headache.
 
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Removal was okay. I replaced all of the stock control arms with metal cloak control arms and it came with the bushings pressed in. I have successfully replaced the passenger front upper control arm bushing. I am having trouble pressing the driver side front upper control arm into the housing that sits on top of the front differential.


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Damn, reading is fundamental :D I read, trouble removing. And to think, not even drinking yet :D Anyway, freezing the bushing and heating the housing works well. Also, makes sure the edges of the bore are nice and smooth, nothing jagged to catch to bushing.
 
Dana 30, balljoint press, flat plate on one side, cup on the other. Dana 44, Currie's smash install tool. Round block of steel with a hollow for the bolt sleeve, shop hammer for the driver.
 
Can someone please explain how I am supposed to get the from upper control arm driver side axel bushing into the housing? I am using a large C clamp and ball press kit.
Air hammer with a flat wedge made it a 2 minute ordeal driving the wedge between axle and sleeve lip. Pressing them in with a rented kit from advanced costs $160 but got my bushing installed with no damage :).

My bushings did have the outter sleeve.
 
How should I set up the ball press? Does it matter if the screw is on pressing the bushing in?


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I used a control arm bushing tool like this:

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Here is the procedure using a similiar set of tools, the concept is correct though:

 
Will this kit work better than the kit I posted earlier?


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I can't say for sure if it will work better, but it is meant for Chrysler (Jeep) vehicles. It's also one of the more common kits I've seen used for control arm bushings.

Are both upper front control arm bushings the same size?

I believe they are, but since I'm not under the vehicle at the moment, I don't want to swear on that.

By the way, I went through this headache of control arm bushings once, never again. The smart way to do it (IMHO) is to buy brand new control arms with the bushings already pressed in.

Check this out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPVWEBY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Those are the ones I bought. It comes with all new control arms (front and rear) with brand new bushings pressed into them. All for $205 (at the time of writing this at least). That's the way to do it if you ask me. Then you can just bolt them in and be done with it.
 
I can't say for sure if it will work better, but it is meant for Chrysler (Jeep) vehicles. It's also one of the more common kits I've seen used for control arm bushings.



I believe they are, but since I'm not under the vehicle at the moment, I don't want to swear on that.

By the way, I went through this headache of control arm bushings once, never again. The smart way to do it (IMHO) is to buy brand new control arms with the bushings already pressed in.

Check this out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPVWEBY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Those are the ones I bought. It comes with all new control arms (front and rear) with brand new bushings pressed into them. All for $205 (at the time of writing this at least). That's the way to do it if you ask me. Then you can just bolt them in and be done with it.

Thanks. I did replace all of the stock control arms with metal cloak control arms. I am now replacing the bushing that sits on top of the front differential/axel side.


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I just did this two weekends ago.

Driver side bushing is easy. Passenger side, not so much. The C channel piece of metal, what actually holds the bushing on the passenger side, we put a block of metal in the opening of the C so that it doesn't bow under the pressure of the ball joint press.

Because yes, if you just shove a ball joint press on there like we did the C just bows in. Is this what you are referring to?
 
I just did this two weekends ago.

Driver side bushing is easy. Passenger side, not so much. The C channel piece of metal, what actually holds the bushing on the passenger side, we put a block of metal in the opening of the C so that it doesn't bow under the pressure of the ball joint press.

Because yes, if you just shove a ball joint press on there like we did the C just bows in. Is this what you are referring to?

I pressed the passenger side in with little trouble. For the driver side I have the clamp set up with the screw on the passenger side with an adapter and sleeve to receive the bushing. On the opposite side of the clamp I have an adapter to press the bushing in. When I tighten the press it cocks the side the bushing tries to go in on an angle. I would like to swap this setup so that the screw is pushing the bushing instead of pulling but the spring is in the way. Also this does not seem correct to me but the bushing does no fit partially into the housing that sits on the differential.


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