Fuel Pump Access Panel

Would have been a great factory option. But then again, if you look at it from the Stealership perspective they get paid by the hour.
It should have been standard from the factory as far as I'm concerned. With that said, I don't know if I'll go to the trouble of actually installing one, but its a great idea. But you'll never see anything like this on a modern vehicle - why engineer in something like this that might raise the price of the vehicle by $5 when you can raise the price $1,500 with bullshit "technology"?
 
It should have been standard from the factory as far as I'm concerned. With that said, I don't know if I'll go to the trouble of actually installing one, but its a great idea. But you'll never see anything like this on a modern vehicle - why engineer in something like this that might raise the price of the vehicle by $5 when you can raise the price $1,500 with bullshit "technology"?
I don't need fuel pump access, but I NEED a 32" touchscreen that controls every function in the vehicle and a sealed
CVT trans, and no low range, and electric power steering, and of course I need to control the transmission with a dial like a heater control. !!!! :ROFLMAO: Actually, I had a VW Golf that had a fuel pump access panel from the factory. Not that it mattered since these wingnuts
couldn't build a functioning electrical system !!!:rolleyes:
 
And where’s your jeep? ;)

Everything is easy when MrBlaine does it.
I’ve dropped my own fuel tank 5 times smart ass. It’s not hard, it’s actually very easy, especially with an ATV or transmission jack.

If someone wants to install an access panel though, by all means, be my guest.
 
Did you have to cut out any support beams?do you have pics,thinking of doing this
If it is something you want to do, by all means go for it. I wish I had known about that kit a couple years ago. Lord knows I had my fill of dropping and reinstalling my fuel tank when I replaced my OEM pump (that was causing a long crank time) with a Bosch replacement pump. 2 Bosch pumps failed (left me stranded and had to be trailered home) within a month of installing them, so having to drop the tank 3 times in not as many months (first time tank was empty both the others it was full) was a HUGE pain in the ass. I guess what they say about the third time being the charm fits here... Knock on wood the 3rd pump has been working for almost a year and a half now!!!
 
Last edited:
I’ve dropped my own fuel tank 5 times smart ass. It’s not hard, it’s actually very easy, especially with an ATV or transmission jack.

If someone wants to install an access panel though, by all means, be my guest.
I’ve done mine twice, agree it’s no big deal. HF tranny Jack user here.
 
Here are some pics. When I installed the panel I had a 1" body lift with the stock gas tank skid plate. It left plenty of room to cut out the floor section without having to drop the gas tank. A few weeks ago I installed the Savvy gas tank skid which raised the gas tank back up into it's original position. So now it is much closer to the floor pan.



Pic 1 - Shows the orientation of the access panel. Note the location in reference to the bolt hole for the rear seat belts.
View attachment 235890



Pic 2 - Shows the access to the fuel tank with the panel off.

View attachment 235889

Pic 3 - Shows the channel that you need to cut through. You can also see the tail light wiring in the yellow loom. The stock wiring is not in any loom. It is fastened to the rear wall with ties. I put the loom in when I installed the Savvy gas tank skid to protect the wiring now that the gas tank is up higher in the space.

View attachment 235888

Pic 4 - Shows the channel on the other side of the opening.

View attachment 235887


Pic 5 - Show the location of the channel from the back lip of the floor. The centerline of the channel is 6-1/2" from the inside part of the lip.

View attachment 235886

Pic 6 - I'm trying to show the location of the tail light wiring in relation to the gas tank and access panel opening. Again, I installed the loom to help protect the wiring. This is the area where my wiring clip had broken and when I cut the access panel opening, it cut one of the wires. Actually the wire wasn't cut, it just chewed into the insulation. I have a 2006 TJ and I'm not sure all tail lights are wired the same throughout the years. On a 2006 all the tail light wiring goes to the drivers side tail light and then this small bundle goes from the drivers side to the passenger side tail light.

View attachment 235885
Thanks for the pics,it looks like it can’t be done without cutting the support,even with a smaller hole
 
Probably a good idea to drop the tank in order to cut the hole, depending on what you cut it with. Sparks and blades...

I wouldn’t buy it
I Agree with the “built not bought” motto
• At the same time we need to be considered of the folks who don’t have access to proper tools, space and knowledge or rather have it done by someone else. Ni

just saying ..., it’s probably a good idea, if one has already downtime on his rig
• speaking for myself, I’m planning on doin it, once I’m able to continue my “spark-plug delete” project

DETOUR overnout

~•lllllll•~👋🏿
 
Could you just leave that support in place and have two openings?
You probably could, but it might present other problems. It basically runs roughly through the middle of the opening. It might impede getting the fuel pump lock ring off or even getting the fuel pump out.

The floor panel is welded to the cross member so not sure how effectively you could remove the small section of floor panel that is attached to the top of the channel. I guess you could just leave that in place too. Either way one would have to notch the access panel frame piece so it would fit over the channel.

The access panel frame is stout enough that I don't believe one is sacrificing and structural strength by removing that small channel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zorba
I Agree with the “built not bought” motto
• At the same time we need to be considered of the folks who don’t have access to proper tools, space and knowledge or rather have it done by someone else. Ni

just saying ..., it’s probably a good idea, if one has already downtime on his rig
• speaking for myself, I’m planning on doin it, once I’m able to continue my “spark-plug delete” project

DETOUR overnout

~•lllllll•~👋🏿
HF sawzall
 
  • Like
Reactions: reddvltj
I live in a rust belt area and removing the tank is super easy. Just cut the 7 bolts in fact they are so soft the rear ones I cut with a big set of lock cutters. The front bolts a bit harder but normally at least one of them gets dremeled off.

They are carriage bolts that you just drop in from the top and you buy in bulk.

I did look into this product when I first bought my Jeep and honestly if they were wider and also converted of access to the top of the shocks I'd be a tad bit more interested but dropping the tank is pretty easy at long as it isn't totally full.. And when the fuel pump goes its very possible you have a full tank.
 
I Agree with the “built not bought” motto
• At the same time we need to be considered of the folks who don’t have access to proper tools, space and knowledge or rather have it done by someone else. Ni

just saying ..., it’s probably a good idea, if one has already downtime on his rig
• speaking for myself, I’m planning on doin it, once I’m able to continue my “spark-plug delete” project

DETOUR overnout

~•lllllll•~👋🏿
Nice!!
 
Dropping the tank MAYBE easy, my pump went out in the middle of town about 30 miles from home...Ya it was pain the ass, so yes with my tank down I cut an access panel...It looks good I cut it pretty good and actually used the piece I cut out for the trap door welding some slats across the dips...fits perfect no rattle and I never have to drop my tank again...While I was at it...I replaced my tank with the 31.5 gallon tank from GENRIGHT...it's my favorite upgrade to date......500 miles on a tank...
 
Thanks for the pics,it looks like it can’t be done without cutting the support,even with a smaller hole
Actually he could have moved up about 2 inches and not cut that support that runs right at the back and still be able to get to his fuel pump and lines...OH and no KIT required, just a little know how and imagination...the slats were cut from a 50 gallon drum lid..I guess I could paint it or have it power coated....I'll seal it with silicone after that...

20210321_175650.jpg


20210321_175616.jpg


20210321_175604.jpg


20210321_175631.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bigfoot-NM