Fuel pump connector stuck

[97' 4 Popper]

Well I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before and whether I'm just plain doing something wrong. It took me about 5 seconds to get the rear of my LJ on stands, wheels and fender liners off, all gas lines and carriage bolt nuts off, sway bar, track bar and lower shock bolts.

Then over the course of two weeks I could not remove the connector to the fuel pump. Red tab has been completely removed, I'm pressing the release tab and wiggling side to side. It only wants to wiggle from the right side, not left. Used kroil and a hairdryer to little effect. The fuel pump had a lot of debris around it, and so did the cross member, about 2 inches of sand and dirt. After clearing it out the cross member and the metal plate above the tank was miraculously rust free underneath, i mean smooth black paint. Mr Blaine mentioned that the dirt gets stuck in the connector, so you have to push it back foward before pulling back out. No amount of pushing or pulling it move it, only wiggling from side to side and really it only wants to wiggle from one side unevenly. It's not like this is my first time or something I dropped the gas tank of my TJ. But the TJ didn't have dirt on the fuel pump, just rust flakes from the metal plate.

I have switched to using electrical cleaner and stopped using kroil because I'm pretty sure it's not going to come out anytime soon and I don't want it to mess with the electronics. Normally after using kroil on electronics I just use cleaner throughly around the socket before reenergizing but looks like that's not going to happen anytime this year.

 

[GregBelleville]

Not much to add here in the way of advice, but will be following to see if anyone's got some good tips as I've run into similar problems with various electrical connectors on my TJ.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Not much to add here in the way of advice, but will be following to see if anyone's got some good tips as I've run into similar problems with various electrical connectors on my TJ.

Yea I didn't really expect much of a response except "keep trying" lol, but you never know, someone always seems to have the answer on W.T.F. Last time this happened to me on the oil pump a forum member pointed out that the red tab wasn't even out all the way. Well in this case it's been removed from the work area entirely! In my desperation im going to try to push the connector back, install the red tab, then remove the red tab again. Maybe it's stuck in the lock position still even with the red tab completely removed. It shouldn't be this hard.

 

[GregBelleville]

Yea I didn't really expect much of a response except "keep trying" lol, but you never know, someone always seems to have the answer on W.T.F. Last time this happened to me on the oil pump a forum member pointed out that the red tab wasn't even out all the way. Well in this case it's been removed from the work area entirely! In my desperation im going to try to push the connector back, install the red tab, then remove the red tab again. Maybe it's stuck in the lock position still even with the red tab completely removed. It shouldn't be this hard.

I feel your pain, hopefully someone smarter than us comes along with the solution

 

[macleanflood]

Mines gotten stuck a couple of times. Usually 15 minutes of wiggling and silicone spray gets it loose.

Nuclear option...cut the wires and replace the plugs.

I recall a post recently about finding replacements.

-Mac

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I'm no fan of WD40 except for one thing... flushing and cleaning out electrical connectors. As a Kroil fan I'd use WD40 instead for this job.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Mines gotten stuck a couple of times. Usually 15 minutes of wiggling and silicone spray gets it loose.

Nuclear option...cut the wires and replace the plugs.

I recall a post recently about finding replacements.

-Mac

I don't last more than 5 minutes before my hands turn to mush and I begin to get frustrated and then I find something else to do in the garage.

I'm no fan of WD40 except for one thing... flushing and cleaning out electrical connectors. As a Kroil fan I'd use WD40 instead for this job.

Wd40 is safe for electronics? And yeah I also only use wd40 for cleaning.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Wd40 is safe for electronics? And yeah I also only use wd40 for cleaning.

Absolutely. It was designed by two General Dynamics engineers to displace moisture from morning dew on electronic circuits inside missiles. WD = water displacement. Technically it's classified as a solvent not a lubricant.

 

[MikeE024]

I’ve replaced a handful of plugs that have seen better days just a matter of if they are available.

D5 Deoxit is my preferred contact cleaner sometimes I’ll run some after different contact cleaner.

 

[MikeE024]

Absolutely. It was designed by two General Dynamics engineers to displace moisture from morning dew on electronic circuits inside missiles. WD = water displacement. Technically it's classified as a solvent not a lubricant.

@97' 4 Popper do not use normal WD40 on electrical plugs. It leaves a tacky film and that’s not what you want.

I’ll use WD40 contact cleaner for electronical plugs and then follow it up with D5 Deoxit if I have it.

Trust but verify (google it).

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That's not true. WD40 leaves no permanent film on electrical circuits. It leaves only a short lived film for temporary corrosion protection while displacing water. It was designed specifically for use on even delicate electronic circuits. That's the only thing it's really good at.

 

[TJ Jim]

Find a small screwdriver like something you would use to remove the plates on you electric plugs in your home. Hopefully that makes sense. Just a small flathead screwdriver. Jewelers type.
Pry using that screwdriver gently between the male and female not parallel to the wires but like you are trying to scoot the male outta the female. Like your rowing a boat.
Hopefully that makes sense. It’s worked for me before on hard to separate connectors.

 

[MikeE024]

That's not true. WD40 leaves no permanent or tacky film on electrical circuits. It was designed specifically for use on even delicate electronic circuits. That's the only thing it's really good at.

It’s very much true and I know better than to fall for story time. Besides, it was made for the outer skin of the atlas rocket.

My hands have bathed in 100s of gallons of wd40 during the manufacturing process of 4140 parts we manufactured.

The film becomes tacky, which is also why it’s a bad idea to use wd40 for the key ignition of your car.

Look up the product info on original wd40 (I already did). Their contact cleaner version is for electrical connectors not their original formula.

 

[Moglocker]

Well I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before and whether I'm just plain doing something wrong. It took me about 5 seconds to get the rear of my LJ on stands, wheels and fender liners off, all gas lines and carriage bolt nuts off, sway bar, track bar and lower shock bolts.

Then over the course of two weeks I could not remove the connector to the fuel pump. Red tab has been completely removed, I'm pressing the release tab and wiggling side to side. It only wants to wiggle from the right side, not left. Used kroil and a hairdryer to little effect. The fuel pump had a lot of debris around it, and so did the cross member, about 2 inches of sand and dirt. After clearing it out the cross member and the metal plate above the tank was miraculously rust free underneath, i mean smooth black paint. Mr Blaine mentioned that the dirt gets stuck in the connector, so you have to push it back foward before pulling back out. No amount of pushing or pulling it move it, only wiggling from side to side and really it only wants to wiggle from one side unevenly. It's not like this is my first time or something I dropped the gas tank of my TJ. But the TJ didn't have dirt on the fuel pump, just rust flakes from the metal plate.

I have switched to using electrical cleaner and stopped using kroil because I'm pretty sure it's not going to come out anytime soon and I don't want it to mess with the electronics. Normally after using kroil on electronics I just use cleaner throughly around the socket before reenergizing but looks like that's not going to happen anytime this year.

I would just get my old favorite small vice grips on one side and a pair of pliers pressing down on the release clip on the other and just pull them apart.wait till you try and get the fuel pump ring back on!

 

[JKP]

@97' 4 Popper do not use normal WD40 on electrical plugs. It leaves a tacky film and that’s not what you want.

I’ll use WD40 contact cleaner for electronical plugs and then follow it up with D5 Deoxit if I have it.

Trust but verify (google it).

Contact cleaner is not going to lubricate the connector to get it apart...

 

[MikeE024]

You really don't know WTF you're talking about. Especially when you make stupid claims like it was made for the outer skin of the Atlas. WD40 HQ in San Diego was my account for five years and I got to know them and the history of WD40's development very well.

It seems as though WD40’s website disagrees with you (imagine that).

Furthermore, this thread ain’t about history it’s about choosing the right tool for the job.

 

[MikeE024]

Contact cleaner is not going to lubricate the connector to get it apart...

I’m aware.

D5 Deoxit lubricates plugs…which I listed already.

I only mentioned wd40’s contact cleaner bc it’s made for electrical plugs not the original wd40. I’m trying to prevent ole Story Time McGee from spreading bad info.

I’m more experienced with the stuff than I prefer to be.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Well I obviously can't add anything to the discussion about wd40, Google searching leads to similar debates...I already bought the cans of electronics cleaner so I guess I'll just use those for now.

Find a small screwdriver like something you would use to remove the plates on you electric plugs in your home. Hopefully that makes sense. Just a small flathead screwdriver. Jewelers type.
Pry using that screwdriver gently between the male and female not parallel to the wires but like you are trying to scoot the male outta the female. Like your rowing a boat.
Hopefully that makes sense. It’s worked for me before on hard to separate connectors.

I have a bunch of mini screwdrivers, will give that another try. I was reluctant for fear of cracking the plastic.

I would just get my old favorite small vice grips on one side and a pair of pliers pressing down on the release clip on the other and just pull them apart.wait till you try and get the fuel pump ring back on!

I'm worried about damaging the connector, but I do have some mini vise grips and plier that might work well for this.

I actually don't need to change the fuel pump, I just wanted to get all the debris out of the crossmember and skid. The crossmember's cleaned out now and the skid isn't really a priority. Also the stupid tank is in the way of the rear suspension. If I can't get the connector out I will just focus on the main priority of cycling the rear for full bump for 32s and get back to the rest of the job next year.

 

[mrblaine]

Well I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before and whether I'm just plain doing something wrong. It took me about 5 seconds to get the rear of my LJ on stands, wheels and fender liners off, all gas lines and carriage bolt nuts off, sway bar, track bar and lower shock bolts.

Then over the course of two weeks I could not remove the connector to the fuel pump. Red tab has been completely removed, I'm pressing the release tab and wiggling side to side. It only wants to wiggle from the right side, not left. Used kroil and a hairdryer to little effect. The fuel pump had a lot of debris around it, and so did the cross member, about 2 inches of sand and dirt. After clearing it out the cross member and the metal plate above the tank was miraculously rust free underneath, i mean smooth black paint. Mr Blaine mentioned that the dirt gets stuck in the connector, so you have to push it back foward before pulling back out. No amount of pushing or pulling it move it, only wiggling from side to side and really it only wants to wiggle from one side unevenly. It's not like this is my first time or something I dropped the gas tank of my TJ. But the TJ didn't have dirt on the fuel pump, just rust flakes from the metal plate.

I have switched to using electrical cleaner and stopped using kroil because I'm pretty sure it's not going to come out anytime soon and I don't want it to mess with the electronics. Normally after using kroil on electronics I just use cleaner throughly around the socket before reenergizing but looks like that's not going to happen anytime this year.

We push in on the connector and then blow it out to remove the debris and dirt that is not allowing the little tabs inside to release correctly.

 

[mrblaine]

Well I obviously can't add anything to the discussion about wd40, Google searching leads to similar debates...I already bought the cans of electronics cleaner so I guess I'll just use those for now.



I have a bunch of mini screwdrivers, will give that another try. I was reluctant for fear of cracking the plastic.



I'm worried about damaging the connector, but I do have some mini vise grips and plier that might work well for this.

I actually don't need to change the fuel pump, I just wanted to get all the debris out of the crossmember and skid. The crossmember's cleaned out now and the skid isn't really a priority. Also the stupid tank is in the way of the rear suspension. If I can't get the connector out I will just focus on the main priority of cycling the rear for full bump for 32s and get back to the rest of the job next year.

Sometimes the little release lever gets too stressed and bends before lifting the locking tab. At that point you have to get in there with the small flat blade and help it.