It’s so oily back at the rear of my engine this must have smething to do with the problem I’m having
G105 ground location?
- Thread starter Leahatrill
- Start date
G105. I know where this ground is.
S131/134. Where is this ground located?
S184/185. Wheres this ground located too?
I’m gnna clean this areas up really well right now to see if it does anything
S131/134. Where is this ground located?
S184/185. Wheres this ground located too?
I’m gnna clean this areas up really well right now to see if it does anything
Get yourself a few cans of electrical contact cleaner and disconnect/remove the connections and liberally clean everything with the cleaner. Allow to dry and reassemble. See the wiring gutter at the rear of your valve cover. Unsnap the lid and inspect the wiring insulation for chafing or bare wires.
I would. Given the chain of events, dry engine compartment everything was fine. Power steering pump soaks engine compartment, now you have problems. If the engine compartment didn’t get soaked with oil I would be looking solely at what all 4 codes had in common, which is g105 and the PCM. Since that’s not the case, check all splices and connections in the two wiring schematics I posted.
Usually a splice can not be verified bad with a visual inspection since the spliced wires are internal to the splice. The way to check a splice is to meter it from both ends and wiggle it around to see what the meter does.
@Leahatrill did you ever end up getting a multi meter? The wiring for the o2 sensor circuit is pretty basic, we could walk you through testing it pretty easily to verify those grounds and splices. Looks like a total of 16 measurements between the plug on your PCM and the plugs on the o2 sensors to verify the integrity of the circuit. A cheapo $15 digital meter from HF is all you'd need - and a set of leads that is long enough to reach between the two connectors
As an example this is where the measurements would be taken on your downstream circuit. Part of my job is training new technicians to find wiring problems on aircraft so I make crap like this all day. It's literally placing your multimeter probes on either end of the red arrows in the given connector pin and looking at the reading. Based on all your other posts I think you'd figure it out. If you had a helper you could knock it out pretty quick - one person under the vehicle probing the o2 sensor connectors and the other in the engine compartment probing the PCM connectors
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Okay so the splice are wrapped up wires right? So I need a voltmeter to check these wires to know if they’re the culprit to the 02 problem I’m having?
s184 location?
S185 is under that little cap?
S131 is under the same cap above the valve cover?
And then s134 is behind the coolant temp sensor? Do I need to remove those plastic covers to access these points?
Also what’s this sensor located right below the power steering pump right above the lower rad hose? It looks like it’s associated with the 02sensor
So for the purposes of checking wires you're not going to gain access to the splices. I don't know what kind of splices FCA used on our TJs, but splices are usually permanent. What you would do with the meter is check for continuity ( being able to read one end of an unbroken wire to the other end means you have 'continuity) from the plastic o2 sensor connector to the connector on the PCM - this reading will check the integrity of the splices because you are measuring through them.
If you do not get continuity and suspect a bad splice you can locate it's position from the diagrams and massage the harness where the splice is located - sometimes you'll get intermittent readings doing this. Most meters have a cool beep function that will beep when you have continuity, so if you do find an open circuit you can leave the meter hooked up and just feel around the harness while you listen for an audible tone.
For now what I would do is take the measurements on those two diagrams for your upstream and downstream sensors and record what you get. For these circuits I'd expect a reading of less than one ohm from the o2 sensor plug to the PCM plug. If you get an open reading (usually expressed as OL on the meter display) then that means the wire you're testing has a break somewhere.
It's also very important to check each pin on that circuit to ground to make sure you don't have any shorts. You can do this by putting one lead on your negative battery terminal and probing each pin in your schematic. The ONLY pins that you should measure continuity to ground on are the ones that lead to a grounding point. Every other pin should real OL to ground. If you get a reading to ground on any other pin it usually means a wire somewhere in that circuit is crushed or smashed and making contact with the frame.
Man I love talking wiring!
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