That is a mistake.I have the swag offroad mounts in my garage
That is a mistake.I have the swag offroad mounts in my garage
The entire purpose of raising a body mount is to gain clearance. You do not want something that is beefed up under the mount that takes away clearance and becomes a hang point that stops forward progress. You want the mount up in the shadow of the line between the edge of the rocker and the bottom of the frame. The higher in that shadow you can get it, the better off you will be.Why?
I run those Swag mounts, and yes you give up a small amount of clearance compared to the stock style mounts mounted higher. But in my experience the smooth bottom of the mount slides across the rocks a bit easier than the exposed bolt on the stock style mount - which tends to dig in. It also protects the bolt head a bit better. I destroyed that center bolt, and folded over the stock mount, several times prior to installing the Swag mounts. Granted those were an inch lower.The entire purpose of raising a body mount is to gain clearance. You do not want something that is beefed up under the mount that takes away clearance and becomes a hang point that stops forward progress. You want the mount up in the shadow of the line between the edge of the rocker and the bottom of the frame. The higher in that shadow you can get it, the better off you will be.
We've been running raised mounts in JV for at least 15 years. We started with stockers, moved the front two back to be the 2nd and 3rd from the front and made a new front. Then when I built Jon's rig, I had Tony build me a set of the raised ones for his which he then turned into a product.I run those Swag mounts, and yes you give up a small amount of clearance compared to the stock style mounts mounted higher. But in my experience the smooth bottom of the mount slides across the rocks a bit easier than the exposed bolt on the stock style mount - which tends to dig in. It also protects the bolt head a bit better. I destroyed that center bolt, and folded over the stock mount, several times prior to installing the Swag mounts. Granted those were an inch lower.
Which product is that, are you referring to the Genright ones? They say they work with a 1" body lift, but I wasn't sure if they'd work with the 1.25" Savvy body lift I have...I had Tony build me a set of the raised ones for his which he then turned into a product.
They have been incorrectly listed every since he made them. They are 1.25".Which product is that, are you referring to the Genright ones? They say they work with a 1" body lift, but I wasn't sure if they'd work with the 1.25" Savvy body lift I have...
How do you get/modify that smaller isolator, and does it change the bolt length? If so what bolt size/length would I need to use them in that combination?You can't hit what isn't there. Here is a Genright raised body mount with a modified smaller lower body mount isolater. This is as high off the ground as you are going to get and still have rubber between the body and frame. A mini boatside slider is coming.
View attachment 261459
Everything you need to know and then some...How do you get/modify that smaller isolator, and does it change the bolt length? If so what bolt size/length would I need to use them in that combination?
Awesome, thanks!Everything you need to know and then some...
Post in thread 'The Hidden Body Lift' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-hidden-body-lift.33605/post-899421
Step bits rarely enlarge on center plus the nutsert hole is commonly 17/32. We don't leave out the center since that ejects the cut circle. If you can't push hard enough to compress the little spring, then back off the spring pressure via the set screw. But, yes, drill every single hole that you can. I employ the use of a slightly used 17/32" bit. New ones are too sharp and will fuck you up.I've never used a roto broach style bit, but I've ordered a set and I'm about to install mini boat side and corner armor. When you guys are saying drill all the holes with the roto broach, are you leaving out the center punch thing and allowing the rotobroach to self align with the holes already in the armor?
Then using a step bit to enlarge the holes for the nurserts?
Much thanksStep bits rarely enlarge on center plus the nutsert hole is commonly 17/32. We don't leave out the center since that ejects the cut circle. If you can't push hard enough to compress the little spring, then back off the spring pressure via the set screw. But, yes, drill every single hole that you can. I employ the use of a slightly used 17/32" bit. New ones are too sharp and will fuck you up.
Don't worry about trying to hit the center of the countersunk holes. Just push on the bit and start the drill turning. It will self feed to the center and drop right in. Put another way, if you were try and drill the hole off center, the countersink will self feed to the center and prevent it.Much thanks
That's the bread crumb I needed. As always. Much thanksDon't worry about trying to hit the center of the countersunk holes. Just push on the bit and start the drill turning. It will self feed to the center and drop right in. Put another way, if you were try and drill the hole off center, the countersink will self feed to the center and prevent it.
I followed his advice on my corners (I wasn’t aware of it when I did my sliders) - it works as well as you’d expect. Just be judicious in your clamping/jacks/whatever pressure you can apply.That's the bread crumb I needed. As always. Much thanks
Is the body/tub pliable enough that once the slider and guard are lined up and tight, you could then tweak the body enough to make up for minor miss-alignment? It would that tension on the body be a bad idea?I followed his advice on my corners (I wasn’t aware of it when I did my sliders) - it works as well as you’d expect. Just be judicious in your clamping/jacks/whatever pressure you can apply.
Getting the corners to align with the sliders is tougher, I have gaps that Blaine never would on his rigs. Mine follows the tub top line well, but I think he lines up with the slider and adjusts elsewhere to fix that.
I’ve only done my corners, which aren’t as clean as @mrblaine would do - so I don’t have enough experience to say anything beyond “lining mine up with the top tub line wasn’t sufficient”. Maybe some cases are? That line is clean, but the slider/corner relationship leaves something to be desired on mine.Is the body/tub pliable enough that once the slider and guard are lined up and tight, you could then tweak the body enough to make up for minor miss-alignment? It would that tension on the body be a bad idea?
NoIs the body/tub pliable enough that once the slider and guard are lined up and tight, you could then tweak the body enough to make up for minor miss-alignment? It would that tension on the body be a bad idea?