GenRight mini boat side slider installation

[DaveF]

I've read a lot of comments about the Genright mini boat side sliders, and read that you have to "bend the pinch seam" to install them... but I can't find any pics or 'how to' on that and I'm curious what that actually looks like / entails.

Anyone installed them and have pics/info they can share?


https://genright.com/products/jeep-lj-standard-mini-boat-side-rocker-guards-w-bars.html

 

[IPerkWVU]

@rasband did you install these?

 

[someguysjeep]

I've read a lot of comments about the Genright mini boat side sliders, and read that you have to "bend the pinch seam" to install them... but I can't find any pics or 'how to' on that and I'm curious what that actually looks like / entails.

Anyone installed them and have pics/info they can share?


https://genright.com/products/jeep-lj-standard-mini-boat-side-rocker-guards-w-bars.html

ya the 1" edge that hangs down below the floor on the side of the tub, the lip or pinch seam gets bent back out of the way.

 

[rasband]

You just need to hammer back the inch-ish the hangs down the side of the tub, a bit more than 45* (I went a lot further). If you have factory front fenders you may want to also do something about the seam between the tub and front fender.

From there, push the slider pretty hard into the body and clamp a lot. Use a rotobroach to drill out all the holes while the slider is tight on there. With them all drilled, remove the slider and expand any holes that need a nutsert. I think it was two on the side and all the ones underneath.

Just try to make sure the nutsert collapses evenly, a couple of mine collapsed a little off center so the head of the countersunk screw doesn’t sit as flush as it should.

This is in the corners, but same idea:

 

[Apparition]

@mrblaine has installed them he may have more info

 

[Apparition]

You just need to hammer back the inch-ish the hangs down the side of the tub, a bit more than 45* (I went a lot further). If you have factory front fenders you may want to also do something about the seam between the tub and front fender.

View attachment 261385View attachment 261386View attachment 261387

From there, push the slider pretty hard into the body and clamp a lot. Use a rotobroach to drill out all the holes while the slider is tight on there. With them all drilled, remove the slider and expand any holes that need a nutsert. I think it was two on the side and all the ones underneath.

Just try to make sure the nutsert collapses evenly, a couple of mine collapsed a little off center so the head of the countersunk screw doesn’t sit as flush as it should.

This is in the corners, but same idea:
View attachment 261388

Got any overall pictures? So we can see how they look.

 

[rasband]

Got any overall pictures? So we can see how they look.

I got about an inch of added clearance with these over the MOPAR rails, about 1.25” over most aftermarket ones.

 

[mrblaine]

I've read a lot of comments about the Genright mini boat side sliders, and read that you have to "bend the pinch seam" to install them... but I can't find any pics or 'how to' on that and I'm curious what that actually looks like / entails.

Anyone installed them and have pics/info they can share?


https://genright.com/products/jeep-lj-standard-mini-boat-side-rocker-guards-w-bars.html

If you consider them, be aware they fit best with the GR corners. If you are considering corners, install both at the same time or you will be unhappy with how one or the other fits if such things matter to you.

 

[rasband]

If you consider them, be aware they fit best with the GR corners. If you are considering corners, install both at the same time or you will be unhappy with how one or the other fits if such things matter to you.

Even with their corners you may find inconsistencies. I’m sure you would have managed them, but I have slight gaps.

Also don’t use their tailgate skin if anyone goes that route, it’s brushed and doesn’t match the corners as it should.

 

[mrblaine]

Even with their corners you may find inconsistencies. I’m sure you would have managed them, but I have slight gaps.

Also don’t use their tailgate skin if anyone goes that route, it’s brushed and doesn’t match the corners as it should.

The inconsistencies are not in the armor pieces. The inconsistencies are in the piece of shit tub and frame that has the structural rigidity of a slightly overdone pasta noodle. Every single one I've installed corners and sliders on has had a bend between the tail gate and doors that required a long tapered cut on the bottom of the corner where it touches the slider. They vary from 1/16" - 0 all the way to almost 1/4" to 0.

That is why you have to do both at the same time. You can tweak the rail up or down ever so slightly to minimize the gap and the rail needs to be used to set the corner height.

 

[Apparition]

I got about an inch of added clearance with these over the MOPAR rails, about 1.25” over most aftermarket ones.

View attachment 261389

View attachment 261390

View attachment 261391

You and I may be twins eventually. Red, Crawlteks, Genright sliders... Good thing my MTR's are 5" taller.

 

[mrblaine]

Also don’t use their tailgate skin if anyone goes that route, it’s brushed and doesn’t match the corners as it should.

Ya'll need to spend about maybe a 1/2 hour on the manufacturing side of things. The skin isn't supposed to match. Raw aluminum sheet is NEVER an as supplied finish, NEVER, it is raw aluminum sheet. The best you can hope for is that it doesn't have any major scratches from someone dragging a fork across it when it is unloaded.

There is no reason for GR to use the same alloy on the tail gate skin as they use on the corners. If they use a different alloy, it will likely have a slightly different hue to it due to the alloying metals.

If you want a finish on raw aluminum that matches, then you will have to do that finish yourself and once you do, then you will also figure out why it is such a terrible idea.

 

[Apparition]

Ya'll need to spend about maybe a 1/2 hour on the manufacturing side of things. The skin isn't supposed to match. Raw aluminum sheet is NEVER an as supplied finish, NEVER, it is raw aluminum sheet. The best you can hope for is that it doesn't have any major scratches from someone dragging a fork across it when it is unloaded.

There is no reason for GR to use the same alloy on the tail gate skin as they use on the corners. If they use a different alloy, it will likely have a slightly different hue to it due to the alloying metals.

If you want a finish on raw aluminum that matches, then you will have to do that finish yourself and once you do, then you will also figure out why it is such a terrible idea.

And that's why paint was invented, specifically for making armor match on TJ's

 

[rasband]

Ya'll need to spend about maybe a 1/2 hour on the manufacturing side of things. The skin isn't supposed to match. Raw aluminum sheet is NEVER an as supplied finish, NEVER, it is raw aluminum sheet. The best you can hope for is that it doesn't have any major scratches from someone dragging a fork across it when it is unloaded.

There is no reason for GR to use the same alloy on the tail gate skin as they use on the corners. If they use a different alloy, it will likely have a slightly different hue to it due to the alloying metals.

If you want a finish on raw aluminum that matches, then you will have to do that finish yourself and once you do, then you will also figure out why it is such a terrible idea.

That’s fair, I know a lot changes by time you’d bring a product to market and it may have just been a mismatch of expectations. That said, the savvy valence matched much better to my expectations.

And that's why paint was invented, specifically for making armor match on TJ's

Someday I’ll care enough about it to paint things or wrap them. For now I’ll just complain

 

[mrblaine]

That’s fair, I know a lot changes by time you’d bring a product to market and it may have just been a mismatch of expectations. That said, the savvy valence matched much better to my expectations.

It has exactly zero to do with anything that changes. If I call a supplier and tell him I want 20 sheets of 6061 T-6 in .188 thickness that all match each other in hue and color, by the time he gets through laughing hysterically at me and gets up off the floor, the next thing he will do is hang up on my dumbass because no one that stupid should be ordering material.

There is no expectation to be had with regard to surface finish, hue, or color other than a reasonable amount of acceptable minor surface imperfections from handling. It is raw material, period. The sheets get slid across each other, dust, fingerprints, etc. all contribute to the delivered patina.

If you want something with a finish that matches, convert everything to brushed stainless with the film you have to peel off before you install it. Brushed is #4 and they will make it match the other bits in the same alloy with the same finish.

Someday I’ll care enough about it to paint things or wrap them. For now I’ll just complain

There is nothing to complain about.

 

[DaveF]

You just need to hammer back the inch-ish the hangs down the side of the tub, a bit more than 45* (I went a lot further). If you have factory front fenders you may want to also do something about the seam between the tub and front fender.

View attachment 261385View attachment 261386View attachment 261387

From there, push the slider pretty hard into the body and clamp a lot. Use a rotobroach to drill out all the holes while the slider is tight on there. With them all drilled, remove the slider and expand any holes that need a nutsert. I think it was two on the side and all the ones underneath.

Just try to make sure the nutsert collapses evenly, a couple of mine collapsed a little off center so the head of the countersunk screw doesn’t sit as flush as it should.

This is in the corners, but same idea:
View attachment 261388

Awesome, just the information I was looking for. My Jeep came with a slider set that I don't care for much but I haven't taken it off so I wasn't sure what was underneath.

 

[Apparition]

Awesome, just the information I was looking for. My Jeep came with a slider set that I don't care for much but I haven't taken it off so I wasn't sure what was underneath.

Not interested in the Savvy's?

 

[rasband]

Not interested in the Savvy's?

You do gain a little clearance with the mini boat sides, maybe it matters, maybe it doesn’t. That said if anyone gets the boat sides, plan to get your body mounts raised.

 

[Apparition]

You do gain a little clearance with the mini boat sides, maybe it matters, maybe it doesn’t. That said if anyone gets the boat sides, plan to get your body mounts raised.

Mine will be getting the raised treatment on the new one.

 

[DaveF]

Good info... I already have Metal Cloak corners, they worked for what I was doing at the time. I know going in that whatever slider I choose I'll have to do some ahh... adjusting Knowing what I have learned recently about the sliders I'll probably be cutting the metal cloak stuff mostly, I want the new slider to go all the way to the wheel well as one piece.

This is how it looks now...