Getting a 2 inch lift

[BuildBreakRepeat]

At the end of the day your cheapest/easiest route is this in this order:

Body:

1.25 Savvy BL
1” MML (Brown Dog or spacer)
JKS Disconnects

Then suspension:

2” Spring (OME makes good ones)
Adjustable front track bar (Rough Country Forged is recommended)
Rear track bar bracket

No transfer case drop needed. No SYE or driveshaft problems. 3.25 of total lift (Pretty sure that’s your goal).
Then after all of this - Shocks.
Rancho 5000x shocks ( Measure to be exact or just use the 0-2” lift ones)

As always - there are many ways to skin a cat and I make no claims to be the end all expert. But I do know my stuff, and have spent a lot on it.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

You know what, PM me your address and I’ll send you 2” spring spacers for just shipping cost. I’m a big fan of helping others out and I want you to have them.

 

[Alex01]

You're more than welcome to head over to my house to install the lift. I've done a few now if you need any help.

 

[KimsJeep]

At the end of the day your cheapest/easiest route is this in this order:

Body:

1.25 Savvy BL
1” MML (Brown Dog or spacer)
JKS Disconnects

Then suspension:

2” Spring (OME makes good ones)
Adjustable front track bar (Rough Country Forged is recommended)
Rear track bar bracket

No transfer case drop needed. No SYE or driveshaft problems. 3.25 of total lift (Pretty sure that’s your goal).
Then after all of this - Shocks.
Rancho 5000x shocks ( Measure to be exact or just use the 0-2” lift ones)

As always - there are many ways to skin a cat and I make no claims to be the end all expert. But I do know my stuff, and have spent a lot on it.

Ok, I'm not to sure on the MML thing, but I think I will for sure do the body lift and go from there.

I can't do the suspension lift till after July so I have some time to learn and save more. I am trying to do this with as few mods as I have too because I am a novice and although my hubby and I can work on and do the main stuff, I am not to sure about the cutting holes for radiators and cycling suspension and all. I also know he will not pay someone to do this.

I'll PM you.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Ok, I'm not to sure on the MML thing, but I think I will for sure do the body lift and go from there.

I can't do the suspension lift till after July so I have some time to learn and save more. I am trying to do this with as few mods as I have too because I am a novice and although my hubby and I can work on and do the main stuff, I am not to sure about the cutting holes for radiators and cycling suspension and all. I also know he will not pay someone to do this.

I'll PM you.

I’m absolutely willing to walk you through each and every part of the install. I’ve been fortunate enough to have other teach me years ago, and so I’ll do the same. As far as the MML goes, that’s allow you to NOT have to modify/cut the radiator shroud at all and make the Bl install even easier/more beneficial. If you choose to not do the MML, that’s where you have to drill some new holes in the radiator shroud (not my preferred way). I’m glad you’re doing your research and not just jumping in. It’s important to understand how it all works. Cycling suspension is my thing (see signature by my username) but it’s not really critical if you are staying on 31”s. Only when you go bigger in tire size does it become needed.

 

[KimsJeep]

I’m absolutely willing to walk you through each and every part of the install. I’ve been fortunate enough to have other teach me years ago, and so I’ll do the same. As far as the MML goes, that’s allow you to NOT have to modify/cut the radiator shroud at all and make the Bl install even easier/more beneficial. If you choose to not do the MML, that’s where you have to drill some new holes in the radiator shroud (not my preferred way). I’m glad you’re doing your research and not just jumping in. It’s important to understand how it all works. Cycling suspension is my thing (see signature by my username) but it’s not really critical if you are staying on 31”s. Only when you go bigger in tire size does it become needed.

Ok, I didn't even know I had to do something with the radiator with a BL. Boy, this is getting more and more complicated. LOL Stock is sounding better and better. Only reason I say that is because my hubby has no clue either and thinks he does. Don't get me wrong, I love him and he does know things, but he doesn't know all about this stuff and when I try to tell him something I learned on here, he sometimes fights it. So sometimes it can get challenging for me to do it right by how you guys say, to what he thinks. LOL

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Ok, I didn't even know I had to do something with the radiator with a BL. Boy, this is getting more and more complicated. LOL Stock is sounding better and better. Only reason I say that is because my hubby has no clue either and thinks he does. Don't get me wrong, I love him and he does know things, but he doesn't know all about this stuff and when I try to tell him something I learned on here, he sometimes fights it. So sometimes it can get challenging for me to do it right by how you guys say, to what he thinks. LOL

Haha I totally get it. I can see you’re starting to get why the BL/MML is done in combination instead of separately. They make it work well without any headache or extra time. Coming from the truck/prerunner world I had a hard time accepting things like “Only 1.25” of BL” or “No need to run limit straps”. The “why” behind what we say or recommend comes down to real world experience, and trial+error. The BL+MML combo will probably be one of the easier mods you’ve done, not any harder than the aesthetic stuff or bumpers/winches. When you start messing with suspension (springs) that’s when it takes some more mental figuring and work. That’s why I originally recommend 1.25” BL and MML and then see how you feel. Little bites at this stuff will make it way more manageable and you’ll be able to see the benefits of each mod.

 

[Apparition]

Don’t you need the cable shifter for the body lift?

I did my Savvy body lift with tummy tuck also and the cable shifter so I never paid attention to the limiting factor there.

I’d think increasing the distance from tub mounted shifter to transfer case would benefit from the cable shifter

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Don’t you need the cable shifter for the body lift?

I did my Savvy body lift with tummy tuck also and the cable shifter so I never paid attention to the limiting factor there.

I’d think increasing the distance from tub mounted shifter to transfer case would benefit from the cable shifter

With my Rubi, savvy 1.25” BL, and 1” MML I did not need it. Still shifted just fine on a stock skid. But that didn’t keep me from installing it!

 

[Vasq]

Don’t you need the cable shifter for the body lift?

I did my Savvy body lift with tummy tuck also and the cable shifter so I never paid attention to the limiting factor there.

I’d think increasing the distance from tub mounted shifter to transfer case would benefit from the cable shifter

I wanna say that with just a BL there is enough adjustment winthin the z-bar linkage that you can tailor it a bit. Same goes for just a transfer case drop. I do not know if there is enough adjustment for both..
I'm in the same boat as you, in that I did my BL/MML/TT all at the same time as the cable linkage so I didn't pay any attention.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

I wanna say that with just a BL there is enough adjustment winthin the z-bar linkage that you can tailor it a bit. Same goes for just a transfer case drop. I do not know if there is enough adjustment for both..
I'm in the same boat as you, in that I did my BL/MML/TT all at the same time as the cable linkage so I didn't pay any attention.

The MML helps that linkage some after the BL, by bringing the driveline back up to some degree.

 

[KimsJeep]

I'll just throw this in the mix on the BL thing, I have an automatic. Is that going to matter?

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

I'll just throw this in the mix on the BL thing, I have an automatic. Is that going to matter?

It makes it easier than a manual no worry about the stick moving. You won’t have to do a thing.

 

[kanur]

I don't want to confuse you more but if you go with new springs and shocks and your shocks have not been replaced, getting the rear upper shock mount bolts out can be a whole can of worms in itself.

I just did a 2 1/2" OME kit on my rust free TJ and it still took a couple days to get all four bolts out without breaking any off and I have a lot of experience getting stuck bolts out. This site alone has a lot of threads on that subject.

 

[KimsJeep]

I don't want to confuse you more but if you go with new springs and shocks and your shocks have not been replaced, getting the rear upper shock mount bolts out can be a whole can of worms in itself.

I just did a 2 1/2" OME kit on my rust free TJ and it still took a couple days to get all four bolts out without breaking any off and I have a lot of experience getting stuck bolts out. This site alone has a lot of threads on that subject.

In other words, I will want to start spraying them with Deep Creep now.

Thanks for the info.

 

[kanur]

Yes! If you remove you inner fenders you can get to where you need to spray. A small long handled wire brush will allow you to scrub the exposed threads clean.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Yes! If you remove you inner fenders you can get to where you need to spray. A small long handled wire brush will allow you to scrub the exposed threads clean.

I have total access to my rear upper shock nuts because of the 1.25” BL Lots of pros

 

[bobthetj03]

I will go against the grain a little here. I'm not a fan of body lifts. With all the benefits they provide, there is an aesthetics issue that bugs many who lift the body from the frame. You will notice a larger gap between the rear bumper and the body as well as a gap if you were to look at the side of the jeep. As long as this is not an issue for you, a BL provides many advantages. A 2" spring lift works quite well with 31's and gives that little bit of extra clearance you are looking for.

2.5" lift on 31's for comparison.

 

[KimsJeep]

I will go against the grain a little here. I'm not a fan of body lifts. With all the benefits they provide, there is an aesthetics issue that bugs many who lift the body from the frame. You will notice a larger gap between the rear bumper and the body as well as a gap if you were to look at the side of the jeep. As long as this is not an issue for you, a BL provides many advantages. A 2" spring lift works quite well with 31's and gives that little bit of extra clearance you are looking for.

2.5" lift on 31's for comparison.
View attachment 143435

That look great.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

I will go against the grain a little here. I'm not a fan of body lifts. With all the benefits they provide, there is an aesthetics issue that bugs many who lift the body from the frame. You will notice a larger gap between the rear bumper and the body as well as a gap if you were to look at the side of the jeep. As long as this is not an issue for you, a BL provides many advantages. A 2" spring lift works quite well with 31's and gives that little bit of extra clearance you are looking for.

2.5" lift on 31's for comparison.
View attachment 143435

I can’t stand the gap So I fixed it. My raised Hanson rear bumper covers the back almost entirely and the front is going to be covered with a custom front bumper/winch.