Please do. I’ll be looking forward to your thoughts. It’s a mod I would love to do for functionality, but am afraid to do for drive-ability
Great price on a Currie Antirock?
- Thread starter glwood
- Start date
I probably drive more like you, these days, so I'll be interested to read what you have to say about it. And while I have often commented on how I kind of feel like I will be missing out on the benefits/differences in any mods over stock, as I haven't driven my TJ before making the mods, this might be a case where that's beneficial. If the AR creates its own set of handling characteristics, then I guess I won't have known any better, so should adjust quickly to it. Yup. That's how it's going to work in my simple mind, anyways...
OP
I started to search your build thread, but figured I'd just ask - have you picked up an AR, or are considering it?I probably drive more like you, these days, so I'll be interested to read what you have to say about it. And while I have often commented on how I kind of feel like I will be missing out on the benefits/differences in any mods over stock, as I haven't driven my TJ before making the mods, this might be a case where that's beneficial. If the AR creates its own set of handling characteristics, then I guess I won't have known any better, so should adjust quickly to it. Yup. That's how it's going to work in my simple mind, anyways...
Wait...I have a build thread? LOL Sorry, but even I know how sad the situation has become! So, yes, I did pick up an AR. They had gone on sale at a decent price (though not as good as the one you got!), so I just did it.
Last edited:
OP
I plan to give the TJ a good road test around town, and on an area I can crawl around on off road, as is, prior to the install. Then take it on the same drive post install, so there will be a before that's fresh in my mind to compare to the after.
Last edited:
OP
Please be sure to post your assessment of the handling once you're done!
Pay attention to round freeway off/on ramps, and slowing down quickly around corners. Actually speeding up around corners. Kind of like leaving a side road, and entering the arterial without using the suicide lane first. Those are good everyday driving tests.
On mine I started in the middle hole and planned to adjust from there. I left it there because I get full flex as before and it drives great. I may move it one hole to the back and give it a try.
OP
Amazon finally caught on...I checked yesterday, and they still had it for $346, but just now checked, and it's $394.99 now...
The prices on Amazon swing up and down, sometimes daily. Bought mine a couple of months ago for $346. Just keep checking and then pull the trigger when its where you want it.
OP
OP
Started the install today, but ran out of daylight...got the bushings in the cross member, rod inserted, centered, and the 18" arms on the splines and loosely bolted on.
I've sort of run up against a wall in that there's part of the instructions that are not too clear to me. It states to put the arms parallel to each other and the frame. In my case the arms are slightly off from parallel to each other, but they are as close as the splines will allow them to be. Also, when the instructions say parallel to the frame, is that the level part of the frame, or the uphill portion that goes up at an angle from the front cross member? I'm trying to follow their directions as best I can, so I can get an idea how long I need the threaded links to be, at least ballpark. I know they are too long as is, but I don't want to cut them too short. My suspension setup is an OME lift that netted about 2" of lift with the light duty springs. If anyone with that same suspension and an Antirock installed can give me an idea of their link length, that would be helpful. I know the final adjusted length depends on the suspension travel, I'm just trying to get close for now so I can test drive the AR to compare the on road performance.
I've sort of run up against a wall in that there's part of the instructions that are not too clear to me. It states to put the arms parallel to each other and the frame. In my case the arms are slightly off from parallel to each other, but they are as close as the splines will allow them to be. Also, when the instructions say parallel to the frame, is that the level part of the frame, or the uphill portion that goes up at an angle from the front cross member? I'm trying to follow their directions as best I can, so I can get an idea how long I need the threaded links to be, at least ballpark. I know they are too long as is, but I don't want to cut them too short. My suspension setup is an OME lift that netted about 2" of lift with the light duty springs. If anyone with that same suspension and an Antirock installed can give me an idea of their link length, that would be helpful. I know the final adjusted length depends on the suspension travel, I'm just trying to get close for now so I can test drive the AR to compare the on road performance.
Mine are on a 4 inch Currie lift and with the rods as short as I can make them my arms are pointing upwards. So I think parallel, to the upward part of the frame is good.
Not a great picture of the AR but you can get the idea: I will try and grab a better pic tomorrow. Maybe others will post pics of theirs?:
Not a great picture of the AR but you can get the idea: I will try and grab a better pic tomorrow. Maybe others will post pics of theirs?:
The splines will rarely allow the arms to be in line with each other. It's a result of the way splines are cut. Close enough is good enough.
As far as the angle at ride height, point the arms a bit above horizontal. Droop the axle and make sure the links have a kink in them. Again, close enough is good enough.
As far as the angle at ride height, point the arms a bit above horizontal. Droop the axle and make sure the links have a kink in them. Again, close enough is good enough.
That is weird that you say that about the splines, because I lined mine up with the front bumper and they were perfect unless my front bumper is slightly off. If that is the case. I didn't even notice they were off. So mine must be pretty close.
OP
They're about an 1/8" - 1/4" different height at the tip of the arm. Close enough, I guess. Now to figure out how long to make the links as a starting point...the instructions say to put the arms parallel to the frame, then measure from the middle of the center hole to the middle of the hole on the axle bracket. If, for example, that measurement is 9", it says to cut 1.5" off the 8.5" rod, ending up with a 7" rod. Once the ends are on, you will have 9".
That's why I was wondering what parallel to the frame meant, so I could get a good measurement. It seems they need to be short enough to use the rearmost hole on the arm, but long enough if you want to adjust to one of the holes toward the front.
That's why I was wondering what parallel to the frame meant, so I could get a good measurement. It seems they need to be short enough to use the rearmost hole on the arm, but long enough if you want to adjust to one of the holes toward the front.