Great price on a Currie Antirock?
- Thread starter glwood
- Start date
I am pretty sure I am doing a rear main seal tomorrow so I will re-check mine tomorrow. but I am pretty sure mine is pretty right on the money. Maybe that is one of the reasons I don't like mine very well yet.
Thanks for the tip I totally forgot about the exhaust when I bought my parts. "It had to be exhaust, I hate exhaust!"
OP
I say cut them. I liked your idea of cutting them for the loosest then adjusting them where you want.
Here is why I suggest that. Cut them and you can test it. If you ef them up, you can order the other ones to replace them of which you are considering anyway right. This way you have on chance to get it right and if you blow it order the other ones. Or if you can get a measurement for the other ones cut it to that size.
If you are nervous about cutting them put a nut on it all of the way then cut it and remove the nut it will retap the threads for you coming off.
OP
I will cut them, tomorrow, thanks for the encouragement. What you said makes sense. It's not rocket science.
OP
Installation complete. Some observations:
In my case, there was no 'tapping' the bushings into the ends of the crossmember. Those suckers needed to be beat into place with a vengeance, using that dead blow hammer and block of wood. Better workout than the gym.
I ended cutting 1" off of each end of the threaded links, so they ended up being 6.5" long afterward. Still a bit long, but I wanted to keep the jam nuts on, and this was as short as I could make them and still use those. The arms are about 10* above level. I may order the shorter links. We'll see. Put the links on the middle arm hole.
Definitely more body roll than stock, but nothing I can't get used to. Went on the same test drive as with stock anti sway bar, and while it's different, it's nothing scary. I still have two holes forward if I feel like stiffening it up. One thing that is probably adding more body roll is the hard top. That definitely adds more weight up higher. As stated before, I drive like an old grandma, so I think I will be fine.
All in all, not a huge difference. I have not tried it off road, however. Had to get ready to go out of town tomorrow with the wife.
In my case, there was no 'tapping' the bushings into the ends of the crossmember. Those suckers needed to be beat into place with a vengeance, using that dead blow hammer and block of wood. Better workout than the gym.
I ended cutting 1" off of each end of the threaded links, so they ended up being 6.5" long afterward. Still a bit long, but I wanted to keep the jam nuts on, and this was as short as I could make them and still use those. The arms are about 10* above level. I may order the shorter links. We'll see. Put the links on the middle arm hole.
Definitely more body roll than stock, but nothing I can't get used to. Went on the same test drive as with stock anti sway bar, and while it's different, it's nothing scary. I still have two holes forward if I feel like stiffening it up. One thing that is probably adding more body roll is the hard top. That definitely adds more weight up higher. As stated before, I drive like an old grandma, so I think I will be fine.
All in all, not a huge difference. I have not tried it off road, however. Had to get ready to go out of town tomorrow with the wife.
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Try having a full set of 5 beadlocks to do right after. It's enough to break a man.
If you want the part number for a link that won't have any center spacing let me know. Idk what lift you're running, but it works well for no lift.
OP
Yup! https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/JSI-8F-29375?search=JSI-8F-2.9375
Edit: Also make sure that you have both heims rotated in the same direction when tightening the jam nuts. I've seen one that the heims were rotated in opposite directions and were binding.
OP
Those would most likely be too short. I'm pretty sure the shorter Currie links, while the same length as what I ended up with, can be shortened enough to be the correct length, and still allow me to keep using the jam nuts. Thanks for the part information, though.
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I am in the middle of a rear main seal job, but I am going to try and stiffen mine up a notch to see if I can get mine a little less scary haha.
Jay MacLeay
TJ Enthusiast
Just assumed it wouldn't fit so you threw it out sounds like when I "accidentally" break something for an excuse to upgrade.... Opps
I actually remember you asking. Lol
I didn't want to give an honest assessment until after some hard wheeling which I finally got to do.
So Offroad the Antirock is awesome and very convenient coming from disconnects.
On road though is where it really surprised me and eliminated my concerns.
Been running the Antirock the entire time on softest setting without any issues.....75mph up the interstate, twisty mtn roads, I can't feel any noticeable roll ,Thrilled to have the Antirock.
4" short arm lift on 33's
Teraflex springs
RS5000X Rancho shocks
OP
I appreciate the review, thank you. I've had mine on for about a month, and around town I've pretty much forgotten that I changed from stock...
Although it’s hasn’t been as long for me I have to think about it or I don’t notice it. I was nervous with some of the reviews, but for me all for not.
Sounds like we have the same setup, except I have currie springs. I sure didn't get the same experience. It must be different for different TJs. I found it more tolerable by adjusting it stiffer, but still have a ton of body roll. I have one adjustment left, but giving this hole its fair trial.
OP
Not as much lift here, but as a lot have done, I put mine on the center hole, and left it. No drama that I can notice.
Your TJ may have a reaction to the AR, not unlike @psrivats & @bobthetj03 to the gear change scenario - unexplainable.
OP