Gurgling coolant system?

[LCL-Dead]

Duralast is exactly the brand I had in mind when I was trying to steer you away from cheap store brand products. They don't get any cheaper than Autozone's Duralast store brand.

I figured exactly that when you brought up the lifetime warranty. I wasnt happy buying it but i need this thing back on the road asap.

Throw me a link to one you recommend and ill order that one next paycheck to eventually replace this one.

 

[LCL-Dead]

Also thought it was funny so i snagged this pic. When the shop opened there were about 8 of us who pulled in and got to work.

Of course it's the two jeeps that will be here the longest.

 

[Mr. Bills]

I see a box for a "fail safe" thermostat in one of your photos.

Get a Stant Superstat 195* themostat instead.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7YRNM/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[pagrey]

I figured exactly that when you brought up the lifetime warranty. I wasnt happy buying it but i need this thing back on the road asap.

Throw me a link to one you recommend and ill order that one next paycheck to eventually replace this one.

Ebay has good prices, just search for 68382492AA

Wermopar isn't bad either
https://www.wermopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-water-pump-assembly-68382492aa/
There's always Amazon but they don't list the current part number, you'll probably get the right thing. Not a fan of Amazon but that's a personal choice and it's your money
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DKISHK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If I've linked to the wrong pump I'm sure somebody will post.

 

[Mike_H]

I replaced mine with the Napa True Flow or some such. It was about half the price (or more) of the Mopar, but about double the "cheap" parts store waterpumps. Giving it a try. If it fails in less than a year, I'll just by the Mopar. I did put a Mopar radiator in though.

 

[LCL-Dead]

I replaced mine with the Napa True Flow or some such. It was about half the price (or more) of the Mopar, but about double the "cheap" parts store waterpumps. Giving it a try. If it fails in less than a year, I'll just by the Mopar. I did put a Mopar radiator in though.

Hmm.. The "cheap" store water pump was $80 for me. The ones being linked are roughly $120-140. How much did you pay?

 

[LCL-Dead]

Yes.

You might consider one oil change with cheap walmart proline or valvoline 10w30 and see what that does. Like I suggested before, switch types from synthetic to conventional. The change will not damage the engine and you can always switch back. Do not put seafoam, detergent or any other mystery fluid in your oil. This is a very common problem, not only does my Jeep start to make lifter noise after about 3K miles but I know a few others that do too. It is just asking for an oil change. It is really really unlikely you will learn anything from pulling the pushrods and removing the valve cover is a miserable job.

The only thing I would ever put in my gas tank is 87 unleaded and Techron.

• So here's the story on the ticking:
  • Switched to Royal Purple in the Owners Manual recommended weight.
  • Ran that for about 3200 miles.
  • At literally about 3150 I noticed the jeep had developed a tick in one of the lifters.
  • Swapped out the Royal Purple for Mobile-1 Full Synth at the next oil change (Just cause I wasn't gonna keep paying the markup on RP)
  • When that didn't work, ran an extra quart of detergent in the oil for about a week based off of a bit of research into recommendations.
  • Changed the oil again, same type.
  • Ticking still exists.

At 130k miles I sort of expected that a simple detergent wouldn't do it, which is why I've been reading up/watching videos on pulling the head so I can get to the lifter in question and just replace all of them. This will also allow me to do a lot of cleanup on the block and it's surrounding components, kind of a two-birds-with-one-stone approach.

The tick is only mildly annoying but I've also read that prolonged and left alone, they can be harmful to the valve train, so I'd like to resolve it sooner than later as this is my daily driver at the moment.

 

[Stockli]

Head gasket. Sounds like your blowing coolant out the overflow when driving and sucking everything back in during the cool-down as the air pockets contract.

Sounds like air in the system to me.

That would be a massive head gasket leak to blow it out of there.

Air in there though would defininately expand and blow coolant out everywhere.

 

[Mike_H]

Hmm.. The "cheap" store water pump was $80 for me. The ones being linked are roughly $120-140. How much did you pay?

I may be mis-remebering...Let me post a link...

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TFW42293
It was 65 bucks.

Autozone

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...-pump/duralast-new-water-pump/536556_381126_0
Its 63 dollars

Did you get the one with the fan clutch and everything?

I also found one at Autozone for 40 dollars

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...pump/valucraft-new-water-pump/454274_961606_0

 

[qslim]

View attachment 79578

Also thought it was funny so i snagged this pic. When the shop opened there were about 8 of us who pulled in and got to work.

Of course it's the two jeeps that will be here the longest.

LCL is that the DIY shop on Cherry Point?

 

[LCL-Dead]

I may be mis-remebering...Let me post a link...

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TFW42293
It was 65 bucks.

Autozone

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...-pump/duralast-new-water-pump/536556_381126_0
Its 63 dollars

Did you get the one with the fan clutch and everything?

I also found one at Autozone for 40 dollars

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...pump/valucraft-new-water-pump/454274_961606_0

The one without the clutch, $77 by my receipt.

And yes, that's the Cherry Point hobby shop.

 

[pagrey]

At 130k miles I sort of expected that a simple detergent wouldn't do it, which is why I've been reading up/watching videos on pulling the head so I can get to the lifter in question and just replace all of them. This will also allow me to do a lot of cleanup on the block and it's surrounding components, kind of a two-birds-with-one-stone approach.

The tick is only mildly annoying but I've also read that prolonged and left alone, they can be harmful to the valve train, so I'd like to resolve it sooner than later as this is my daily driver at the moment.

I'm guessing you quoted me because you thought with the additional info I might have a different opinion. I'll say it a third time, wish you luck and leave you to make your own decision.

This is a really common problem. I would switch oil a few times, like 3 oil changes over 6-9K miles with different types until I found one that works. Mine makes "tick tick tick" noise after 3K, really, I'm not just pulling your leg. I would still recommend cheap 10w30 first. Definitely non-synthetic because that appears to have started your issue. The second batch maybe try Delo 400 14w40 or Rotella 15w40. I wouldn't put the thicker oil in until it warms up a bit in the summer.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive
Might focus on this part: "These unsubstantiated claims have caused consumers to be lured into adding a bottle of chemicals to their engines"

Big oil companies like Shell and Valvoline have spent a lot more time and money in R&D with a focus on making your lifters stop ticking than anything else you can buy at the parts store.

Another one of my opinions, if you are watching videos on how to pull the head you are not going to have a good time with it. A mechanic with the skills to do the job right only needs the factory service manual. If you need more than that I would really think twice about diving into my daily driver.

Before you pull the head you might start another thread with the problem in the title so it isn't buried like this, you might get a few more opinions on the subject. It is possible some experienced members may be a little hesitant to repeat advice given in countless threads on the subject already.