Has anyone tried OX lockers?

Grey_Machine7.3

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I've don't a TON of research on lockers, and I plan on having onboard air, but I didn't really want air lockers, and the passive lockers I feel like I'd end up tearjng something up because I do a lot of road driving in my tj. The manual actuation of pulling a lever to engage the locker is very appealing to me. Curious to see if anyone has gotten these and what experience you've had with them.
 
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There are several threads discussing OX Lockers. Most on here use arb or eaton, and will steer you to that.

I like OX for the mechanical simplicity, and it is on my to do list once I regear.

Those on here who use OX have said good things... i dont remember anyone who ACTUALLY had them speak bad about it.

But OX is not as common as the other choices... which are solid choices in their own right.

End of day, pro and cons to each between the 3. Pick whichever resonates with you.
 
If you are going to be running on-board air, an ARB or Zip locker might be the ticket. I have an ARB rear locker. From what I’ve seen the install is somewhat comparable between OX and ARB/Zip. As stated above, each has their merits and it’s your money and your Jeep. Either way, you will be happy with a selectable locker.
 
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If you are going to be running on-board air, an ARB or Zip locker might be the ticket. I have an ARB rear locker. From what I’ve seen the install is somewhat comparable between OX and ARB/Zip. As stated above, each has their merits and it’s your money and your Jeep. Either way, you will be happy with a selectable locker.
But if solenoid fails I can't lock up. That's really the only reason I don't want air lockers. Plus, I want as many levers as possible in my cockpit. 😈
If the cable fails on the ox locker (providing I can get to the diff) there's screw insert that replaces the cable that will lock the diffaru
 
But if solenoid fails I can't lock up. That's really the only reason I don't want air lockers. Plus, I want as many levers as possible in my cockpit. 😈
If the cable fails on the ox locker (providing I can get to the diff) there's screw insert that replaces the cable that will lock the diffaru

Good reasons to get the Ox. But the others are reliable, frequently used at highest levels, and tested. All good choices.

Generally, these threads turn into a shit show. It sounds your like me, and the Ox is preffered .

So get one. 😃
 
Well I don't mean to start a war here for sure. I'm pretty set on the ox's
Just wanted to know if anyone has them, any problems or non problems they might have with them.
I have an E lcokers in my Toyota, and while it does work, that 1/4 tire turn it has to make for the locker to engage is a real b!tch
 
Ya, that turned me off on the elockers.

Id say generally, members on this forum run arb or elockers.. if your looking for Ox feedback, try looking up past threads. The convos are pretty recent.
 
I have a rear ox locker. I run an electrically controlled solenoid to Port air to the locker. The great part is there is a thread in plug you can out in at the locker pretty easily if you need to lock it up when air supply brakes.

One problem I had was the locker plunger contacted ring gear (5.13s in JK Dana 44). They have a low clearance plunger they sent out. I called and the owner answered and he took care of me on the spot. Didn't have to deal with the reseller.

Be aware the diff cover is larger than other covers. I would think twice about front axle due to if I had ox there it would limit up travel due to diff cover track bar clearance.
 
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Not this conversation again. I bet you watched the same video about lockers that the last guy did. Opening remarks sound strikingly similar.

Newer E-locker doesn’t have the 1/4” turn delay
 
Not this conversation again. I bet you watched the same video about lockers that the last guy did. Opening remarks sound strikingly similar.

Newer E-locker doesn’t have the 1/4” turn delay
Lol, sorry. But levers! I know air lockers are battle tested, and honestly I've never heard of one failing. I just want all the levers in my cab. I want levers instead of switches for lights. I want it to look like a dang locomotive operation driving down the road having to constantly pull levers to make stuff do stuff. (Exaggerated obviously, but I do like the levers 🤣)
And I know, if I wanted to start some s**t, I could always start talking about long arms 🤣🤣😂😂🤣
 
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But if solenoid fails I can't lock up. That's really the only reason I don't want air lockers. Plus, I want as many levers as possible in my cockpit. 😈
If the cable fails on the ox locker (providing I can get to the diff) there's screw insert that replaces the cable that will lock the diffaru
How many single points of failure do you have on your rig right now that will disable it from moving or functioning in a safe manner if one of those points fails?

"If my solenoid fails" blah blah blah. Stupidest fucking reason ever to pick a locker, ever.
 
How many single points of failure do you have on your rig right now that will disable it from moving or functioning in a safe manner if one of those points fails?

"If my solenoid fails" blah blah blah. Stupidest fucking reason ever to pick a locker, ever.
Yeah. But levers
ITS ALL ABOUT THE LEVERS
 
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How many single points of failure do you have on your rig right now that will disable it from moving or functioning in a safe manner if one of those points fails?

"If my solenoid fails" blah blah blah. Stupidest fucking reason ever to pick a locker, ever.


I would guess the underlining point he was trying to make was about the value of simplicity.
Less components, less chances of failure.
 
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Ya, that turned me off on the elockers.

Id say generally, members on this forum run arb or elockers.. if your looking for Ox feedback, try looking up past threads. The convos are pretty recent.
We have run Detroit full case, Eaton E-locker, TJM air locker, ARB, Zip air locker, OX, JK E-locker, and Rubi air lockers in our group or at one time or another. The only two that I would point to as being somewhat unreliable not for reasons of activation are the two factory lockers. Metal filings take out the JK locker and the Limited Slip function blows up and takes out the Rubi 44 rear locker. Other than that, reliability is about the same.
 
I would guess the underlining point he was trying to make was about the value of simplicity.
Less components, less chances of failure.
How about just some basic simple common sense used in the routing and installation and mitigate that chance to near zero? When there are several hundred single points of failure already on your rig, 1 more done correctly is just not a problem. If it is, one really needs to take a look at how they do things.
 
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How about just some basic simple common sense used in the routing and installation and mitigate that chance to near zero? When there are several hundred single points of failure already on your rig, 1 more done correctly is just not a problem. If it is, one really needs to take a look at how they do things.


Sure.. common sense is good. Dont route your wiring in an exposed manner, etc..

But by simple design, Ox with the cable and lever is the simpliest mechanical locker between the 3.

Less dependent components, less parts, simple... results in a lower chance for failure.
 
Sure.. common sense is good. Dont route your wiring in an exposed manner, etc..

But by simple design, Ox with the cable and lever is the simpliest mechanical locker between the 3.

Less dependent components, less parts, simple results is a lower chance for failure.
Oh well, in that case, lets just remove the hydraulics from your brakes and hook up cables like a go kart, simple, less components, lower chance of failure. Hell, we can remove the fronts and eliminate two more components right there.
 
How about just some basic simple common sense used in the routing and installation and mitigate that chance to near zero? When there are several hundred single points of failure already on your rig, 1 more done correctly is just not a problem. If it is, one really needs to take a look at how they do things.
Oh well, in that case, lets just remove the hydraulics from your brakes and hook up cables like a go kart, simple, less components, lower chance of failure. Hell, we can remove the fronts and eliminate two more components right there.
Is there a how-to thread on this?
 
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Oh well, in that case, lets just remove the hydraulics from your brakes and hook up cables like a go kart, simple, less components, lower chance of failure. Hell, we can remove the fronts and eliminate two more components right there.

At this point, logic has left the conversation.
 
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